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NEC TG-16/TE/TurboDuo => TG/PCE Repair/Mod Discussion => Topic started by: broken on October 08, 2012, 11:27:50 AM
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Thought I would share a recent RGB mod to my TG16.
RGB modded it with stereo audio and composite video as sync. Used a mini 8 pin din and installed it where the useless RF output was at keeping a stock external appearance. Borrowed this idea from MMmonkey.
http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/console/pce/rgb.htm
The RGB amp design came from GameSX. It's the regular SC1815 transistor based amp.
http://www.gamesx.com/rgbadd/duorgb.php
(http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6VPnQFnOdO8/UHEODT1Na6I/AAAAAAAAB1s/I_q0RUV88Ts/s800/IMG_0757%20(Medium).JPG)
(http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-NSwfpHRcyx4/UHEODUUFTAI/AAAAAAAAB10/kbXZSiduGW4/s800/IMG_0758%20(Medium).JPG)
(http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9IEjluPPgRM/UHEODVOQxII/AAAAAAAAB1w/EMfkFoKD3Q0/s800/IMG_0759%20(Medium).JPG)
This was my first time building an RGB amp and actually working inside a TG16. Pretty happy with the results. Other than some very minor jailbars when there is a light, full screen background, the RGB is very nice. Hooked up to my 20 inch Sony PVM. Next time I build one of these amps, I will make it smaller and probably lay some parts down (like the 220uF caps) so that it has a lower profile.
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That looks sexy. The s-video mod is another awesome thing to add.
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Thought I would share a recent RGB mod to my TG16.
RGB modded it with stereo audio and composite video as sync. Used a mini 8 pin din and installed it where the useless RF output was at keeping a stock external appearance. Borrowed this idea from MMmonkey.
http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/console/pce/rgb.htm
The RGB amp design came from GameSX. It's the regular SC1815 transistor based amp.
http://www.gamesx.com/rgbadd/duorgb.php
(http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6VPnQFnOdO8/UHEODT1Na6I/AAAAAAAAB1s/I_q0RUV88Ts/s800/IMG_0757%20(Medium).JPG)
(http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-NSwfpHRcyx4/UHEODUUFTAI/AAAAAAAAB10/kbXZSiduGW4/s800/IMG_0758%20(Medium).JPG)
(http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9IEjluPPgRM/UHEODVOQxII/AAAAAAAAB1w/EMfkFoKD3Q0/s800/IMG_0759%20(Medium).JPG)
This was my first time building an RGB amp and actually working inside a TG16. Pretty happy with the results. Other than some very minor jailbars when there is a light, full screen background, the RGB is very nice. Hooked up to my 20 inch Sony PVM. Next time I build one of these amps, I will make it smaller and probably lay some parts down (like the 220uF caps) so that it has a lower profile.
My rgb modded duo-r also has light jailbars. I don't think its possible to get rid of them. otherwise the picture is great.
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Nice work! Does your mod also output composite from the din jack like duo RGB mods?
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Nice work! Does your mod also output composite from the din jack like duo RGB mods?
Yup. I opted to run composite video to the din 8 instead of amped composite sync. My monitor has no problem accepting composite video as sync and its nice to have a fall back video output in case it's needed.
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My rgb modded duo-r also has light jailbars. I don't think its possible to get rid of them. otherwise the picture is great.
I believe I read that this problem (along with audio hum) can be solved if you do a full capacitor replacement using higher quality tantalum or ceramic types instead of the cheap aluminum electrolytic kind. Both chop and thesteve said I should've used ceramic/tants when I did a full capacitor replacement for my Turbo Express and that I could've gotten rid of the very blatant audio hum, which is WAY more apparent when you use headphones. I'd have to change all the power and audio related caps if I wanted to go back and redo the job just for that.
But anyhow, I'm sure I read somewhere that better caps will solve this particular video problem, but you'd have to spend quite a bit more for tants/ceramic is the thing. Digikey can sell you many of the higher value caps in ceramic form, they're a lot more common now. And if the value isn't available, you'll have to get a tant though they cost even more than ceramic...
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also strategically placed ceramic caps around the HUC6260 can eliminate 99% or better
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also strategically placed ceramic caps around the HUC6260 can eliminate 99% or better
Were else could i place ceramic caps? you had me change one on the cpu i think. are there other places that would help?
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1 more place i found, pin41 to ground
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Ok thanks, i will look into that
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I already have one ceramic cap sitting in that area and while it helped alot i'm lucky i did not bork anything. I can't get to pin 41. I'm just gonna let that second cap go.
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also strategically placed ceramic caps around the HUC6260 can eliminate 99% or better
Do you think you could go so far as to redo the cap replacement charts with new ones that have ceramic or tant values in place of the electro's and add these extra improvement caps also?
That would be great!
I think we've talked about tants in place of electro's and how the tant value can be much smaller than the electro it replaces, but what about ceramics, do they have to be the same value as the electro its replacing?
Still it would be nice to know for sure what value tant to use in place of certain electro values.
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tant and ceramic perform quite close
for coupling caps 10uf to 20uf will easily replace 100uf aluminum.
for signal pass caps use same value.
you cant really over do a coupling cap, so its not necessary to change values
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I really like how that turned out. I got rid of my TG16's in favor of a Duo-R, but had I seen this first, I would have kept one and modded it. I never could figute out where to put the jack for the RGB cable without it looking crappy, but that looks stock!
Chris
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Anyone out there have any experience modding the TGCD base for RGB? I'd like to mod my original unit, and know that I can tap off of the expansion bus in the CD base, and place a DIN8 in the "wing" section of the base, just want to get a feel for how difficult that is.
End goal is that I'd be using RGB to SCART to Component or HDMI. Preferrably I'd like to go SCART to HDMI (as I'm pretty sure a DIN8 to HDMI cable doesn't exist) and wire stereo sound to the DIN as well. In theory is seems relatively simpe and there are a few places I've seen that sell pre modded amplified DIN to SCART cables for just such a purpose.
My biggest problem is finding the time and examples of exactly what I want to do to make sure that I don't butcher my precious original system :pray:
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biggest issue is mounting the connector
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Tap the rgbs from the proper pins, build the simple gamesx rgb amp, wire the outputs into your connector. Same thing that the author of this thread did in his console.
Anyone out there have any experience modding the TGCD base for RGB? I'd like to mod my original unit, and know that I can tap off of the expansion bus in the CD base, and place a DIN8 in the "wing" section of the base, just want to get a feel for how difficult that is.
End goal is that I'd be using RGB to SCART to Component or HDMI. Preferrably I'd like to go SCART to HDMI (as I'm pretty sure a DIN8 to HDMI cable doesn't exist) and wire stereo sound to the DIN as well. In theory is seems relatively simpe and there are a few places I've seen that sell pre modded amplified DIN to SCART cables for just such a purpose.
My biggest problem is finding the time and examples of exactly what I want to do to make sure that I don't butcher my precious original system :pray:
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Sanity check:
Would it be possible to tap the RGB from the expansion bus, amplify it and install component jacks directly in the system? Perhaps there would be another circuit needed for that. I've read a lot of the RBG stuff over the years, but am always wary about starting the project for fear of really messing up my system accidentally LOL.
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yes possible
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How was the DIN port you used on the mod attached to the system board?
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I used the same technique that mmmonkey used. Bend over one of the pcb mounting tabs and place it through one of the holes left by removing the rf modulator. And then behind the connector, scratch off some of the green pcb coating to reveal the copper below it. Then solder the backside of the 8 pin mini din to that. Helps secure it down in the front and rear. You could also run a bead of hot glue around it to help strength it.
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Nice Work, Wish I could do that
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Anyone out there have any experience modding the TGCD base for RGB? I'd like to mod my original unit, and know that I can tap off of the expansion bus in the CD base, and place a DIN8 in the "wing" section of the base, just want to get a feel for how difficult that is.
End goal is that I'd be using RGB to SCART to Component or HDMI. Preferrably I'd like to go SCART to HDMI (as I'm pretty sure a DIN8 to HDMI cable doesn't exist) and wire stereo sound to the DIN as well. In theory is seems relatively simpe and there are a few places I've seen that sell pre modded amplified DIN to SCART cables for just such a purpose.
My biggest problem is finding the time and examples of exactly what I want to do to make sure that I don't butcher my precious original system :pray:
I've done it, the most difficult part is mounting the jack. I had to do a lot of filing by hand since my drill isn't as large as the hole the DIN jack required. Also, if you are running audio through the SCART cable you need to tap the audio from the RCA jacks and not the expansion port, or you won't get CD audio.
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So, as someone with experience with this mod, can you rate it for difficulty?
Also, tell me if this approach makes sense please:
I was going to purchase a cable from a place like http://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk (http://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/) (I talked to them last year and said they could provide a DIN8 to SCART cable) that would have the amp built into the SCART connector, as well as the DIN8 port to mount in the system.
I'd mount the DIN8 in the "wing" section of the CD base (not sure how I'd mound it exactly, maybe some industrial adhesive?) and then tap the expansion bus in the CD base, run wires to the DIN and solder it all up. I'd also tap the RCA jacks for sound (per your suggestion, thanks!!) and have the SCART pass audio as well.
After that I'd get a SCART to Component or HDMI converter. Unfortunately, while I do have a great retro monitor, I have no place that I'd be "allowed" to keep it in the house (wife still doesn't "get" my retro hobby LOL). I know that it won't look great on my LCD TV, but I imagine that RGB will at least make the color and lines better.
Eventually (while kind of insane) I'll probably save some cash up for an XRGB3 or an XRGB-Mini Framemeister to properly upscale the RGB signal.
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That's pretty much what I did, but I think the best spot for the DIN jack is in the back near the AV outs:
(http://www.sega-16.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4113&d=1321414253)
The setup works great, but I get some jailbars when the CD is loading (but not during gameplay.) I haven't bothered trying to open it up to shield the cables from interference or anything.
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i did one mounted by the AV jack (not easy)
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Yeah I heard that there's not a lot of space near the AV jacks in the back, though if I had my wishes, that's where I'd put it. I can't see the pic that was posted, but I'd like to see the placement and can assess later if my skills are up to snuff to put it there without making a mess of my system.
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Sorry, didn't realize a Sega-16 attachment wouldn't display here. Let's try that again.
(http://www.the-nextlevel.com/tnl/attachment.php?attachmentid=67283&d=1350538509)
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Sorry, didn't realize a Sega-16 attachment wouldn't display here. Let's try that again.
(http://www.the-nextlevel.com/tnl/attachment.php?attachmentid=67283&d=1350538509)
Nice looking mod.
Anytime I use those type of Din 8 connectors, I tend to reverse mount them. Mount them on the back side the plastic so you don't see all that silver metal flange going around. Then use black screws and the whole thing looks a lot more stealthy.
Like this:
(http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Ai2kwY-VFvg/T2FzQeHzUWI/AAAAAAAABZA/cDcPCliYiWo/s912/IMG_0348%20(Medium).JPG)
This is from a consolized Neo Geo MV1B I did earlier this year. Same exact Din 8 connector, just mounted on the back side of the plastic.
Also, while they cost more, Amphenol makes some that mount with a retaining nut on the backside. Kinda the way RCA jacks mount. Drill one large hole, put the 8 pin din through it, and then screw on the large retaining nut. However those are $5 or $6 each, but look very high end.
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Where can I find that Amphenol type?
I'm also considering doing the mod to my base TG16, mounting the DIN where the RF is now, as well as mounting a region switch there where the Ch 3 4 switch is now.
Probably also going to do the logo light mod soon.
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Where can I find that Amphenol type?
The one I was thinking of is this one:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/C091%2031N008%20100%202/361-1135-ND/1036179 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/C091 31N008 100 2/361-1135-ND/1036179)
(http://media.digikey.com/photos/Amphenol%20Photos/C091%2031N008%20100%202_sml.jpg)
Sadly it looks like the price has went up!. Now nearly $13 a connector. I am sure there is someone out there that sells these for less.
Also note: This is a full size 8 pin din connector rather than a mini din. I am not sure if they offer something similar in the mini din.
I have used these in the past and they are built like tanks. The connector will probably outlast what ever it's installed into.
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I'm fine with $13 to get the look that I want, and I believe that most DIN to SCART cables are full size DIN and not Mini, unless I am mistaken.
Now I just need to get hot on getting some new soldering supplies, and the things that I need for my mods.
Speaking of which, does anyone know of some nice compact 8PDT switches, or a minimally intrusive way to add the region mod? I know I could search the forums, but I'm being lazy :lol:
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contact blueBMW for a region board
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Very nice, Broken! I probably would have gone with that jack had I been able to find it when I did mine.