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NEC TG-16/TE/TurboDuo => TG/PCE Repair/Mod Discussion => Topic started by: wolfman on January 25, 2014, 06:59:48 AM
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Recently I acquired a Cdrom that was marked as "non-working". After I relubed the rails it played the first 2 tracks fine. Then it went out and didn´t start again (original middle gear broke into two). I got chops replacement gear from Fidde_se and then it played again, though only roughly 3/4 of an Audio CD.
So I decided to replace all the caps after reading about the whole procedure and tried myself with adjusting it. I am 80% trough this whole thing, only caps I left over are where all the cables are below the switches (they´re tiny and there´s hardly space for my fingers, so I left them where they are). Now all I get is a sound from the sled, which is checking its starting position, and then theres silence. No matter which pots I adjust or which position they have, just nothing.
I must say that I did very thorough reading on the whole re-aligning and re-capping procedure.
What did I do wrong? Any opinions? I appreciate any help!
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Hmm, I haven't had that problem before but maybe check that you didn't accidentally install two polarized 10UF caps where non-polarized ones should be used. Also, take a good look at the solder points for the capacitors on the board. I've seen a few pads that can lift up requiring a new lead to be soldered to it.
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Hmm, I haven't had that problem before but maybe check that you didn't accidentally install two polarized 10UF caps where non-polarized ones should be used. Also, take a good look at the solder points for the capacitors on the board. I've seen a few pads that can lift up requiring a new lead to be soldered to it.
No, I definitely didn´t take the bipolar ones out, cause I didn´t have replacement for them.
I can send you a photo of my soldering...looks very clean. But maybe you´ll see something, that I havent seen. I am professionally blinkered by now.... :(
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Also, take a good look at the solder points for the capacitors on the board. I've seen a few pads that can lift up requiring a new lead to be soldered to it.
Hey, I have uploaded 2 pics of the underside of the board. Do you want to take a look at it? Maybe you see something I don´t.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/65709578@N06/sets/72157640174676445/
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If tricking the sled door, does the laser light up? any cracks in the pots plastic case?
I'v heard that when trimming the pots to far (certain pots) out of their position can burn the laser for good, that definitely goes for the pot on the laser, which should not be tweaked unless the laser is on it's last toes and need just some extra juice to crack it up.
And sometimes when adjusting the pots just the slightest, either by ear or by measuring it can make it go from read bad to not at all, when it stops spinning you know it's to far.
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If tricking the sled door, does the laser light up? any cracks in the pots plastic case?
I'v heard that when trimming the pots to far (certain pots) out of their position can burn the laser for good, that definitely goes for the pot on the laser, which should not be tweaked unless the laser is on it's last toes and need just some extra juice to crack it up.
And sometimes when adjusting the pots just the slightest, either by ear or by measuring it can make it go from read bad to not at all, when it stops spinning you know it's to far.
So which pot exactly is the one for the laser? Descriptions on the forum here don´t name it directly.... Is it the far left one when you look from the side, in normal position (cdrom on the table with board on the underside)?
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There is a pot on the laser unit itself, not the mainboard. You should never have to adjust that one except in the most extreme of circumstances.
If you need a new laser, let me know.
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There is a pot on the laser unit itself, not the mainboard. You should never have to adjust that one except in the most extreme of circumstances.
If you need a new laser, let me know.
Oh, I am sure I never touched THAT pot! Still I don´t see light coming thru the lens, so there must an issue. Don´t know where though.
One thing though I noticed today:
When I put everything togehter into the IFU, and I switched on the LT (with a game hucard in it) and right after the CDROM, it would spin up, and after the game had loaded, would stop. This is somehting it doesn´t do when I have a music cd in it - it simple would move the sled to check the for correct position, and then the unit goes off. Any hint?
Btw, thank you for your laser offer, I´ll get back to you, if I don´t get it sorted the normal way.
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Power the unit on open the lid and hold the little lid closed switch with a small screwdriver or whatever and press play and see if the laser tracks to center, turns on and then bobs up and down a few times. That would tell is where in the process it is breaking down.
When it power up the first thing the system does is move the laser to center. Once the center switch is tripped, the laser powers on and moves to check for the presence of a disc. If a disc is seen, the drive spins up and the laser moves to read the TOC. If no disc is seen, the laser stops and shuts off.
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Power the unit on open the lid and hold the little lid closed switch with a small screwdriver or whatever and press play and see if the laser tracks to center, turns on and then bobs up and down a few times. That would tell is where in the process it is breaking down.
When it power up the first thing the system does is move the laser to center. Once the center switch is tripped, the laser powers on and moves to check for the presence of a disc. If a disc is seen, the drive spins up and the laser moves to read the TOC. If no disc is seen, the laser stops and shuts off.
Sled checks for position, actually I CAN hardly see the laser turn on, and then there is nothing. After a few seconds the unit powers off. And then I cant get it to power on again (it only powers on again in the IFU :-k), I have to remove the power plug.
So far it goes, but then nothing more.... :twisted:
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If you're getting a very weak laser then I'd suspect something with the laser or its connections, not the pot adjustments.
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If you're getting a very weak laser then I'd suspect something with the laser or its connections, not the pot adjustments.
Do you have a closeup photo of that laser pot? I actually don´t see any pot on mine - whether on the cable nor on the laser unit itself....
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What puzzles me is the startup-sequence:
I switch on the CDrom, the sled moves 1mm back and forth (innermost position), silence, moves 1mm back and forth, silence. Shutoff. I cannot switch it on again, I have to remove the plug, wait a few secs, and only then I can switch it on again. It also doesn´t matter which Audio-CD I use, always the same behaviour.
What is causing this?
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Can you take a picture of the postions of the five pots on the mainboard?
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Sure, here it is:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/65709578@N06/12192888985/#
Like I said, I am sure that I touched them without noticing during the cap replacements....
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That is very odd to see those pots in such a position but I have seen some vary here and there.
Try setting the pots similar to this picture and see if it changes anything. http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa150/boostedk20a/Laser%20guide/pic_06.jpg (http://pic.photobucket.com/bwe.png)
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The ribbon cable doesn't seem to be correctly plugged...
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It is plugged in correctly in the picture I just posted for you to see. Check and make sure yours is the same.
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Hi, thanks for the help.
If look closer you´ll see that it is correctly plugged in (compare it with the solder spot,, your picture and mine). I already tried the pots like in the picture you mentioned, unfortunately to no avail.
I measured voltage across all pots and the only one that gives a good return is Pot #2 (right of ribbon cable connector), 2.25-2.35 V. The other pots are dead at all or give odd results like 1.7 V, 0.5 V or 0.7 V. I used a hq volt meter, so this is certainly not an error deviation. Re-adjusting with measurements didn´t change that much. I am beginning to believe it is the CXAsomething IC, that is connected to pot #1....but I am not sure as I don´t not what values it should deliver...
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If tricking the sled door, does the laser light up? any cracks in the pots plastic case?
I'v heard that when trimming the pots to far (certain pots) out of their position can burn the laser for good, that definitely goes for the pot on the laser, which should not be tweaked unless the laser is on it's last toes and need just some extra juice to crack it up.
I could try replacing them. Would make sense. I don´t know them by value, what would be an appropriate replacement?
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I say that because it seems a little crooked...( hope it's the right word :oops:)
Did you already plugged/unplugged the ribbon cable? I had one with a blended and uncoupled pin that you couldn't see from the outside.
It could also be the laser limit switch... did you read that topic? http://www.pcenginefx.com/forums/index.php?topic=7012.0
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It could also be the laser limit switch... did you read that topic? http://www.pcenginefx.com/forums/index.php?topic=7012.0
Cable contacts are good, I measured them - power gets through to the laser pcb.
Limit switch does give contact, when you push the pin in - I measured with my voltmeter. That shouldn´t be the problem - it would try to move beyond the spindle if there were no contact.
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I had the same problem, the switch worked, but the lens wasn't going far enough to fully push on the switch, i just 'forced' the lens one time to make a deep contact to the switch and now the unit works.
If the problem is the plot adjustment, knowing that the values measured at the plots can vary from a console to another, I recommand you to use the "by ear method" described here: once you're used to it, it's very easy to adjust the lens in any Nec Cd system.
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I had the same problem, the switch worked, but the lens wasn't going far enough to fully push on the switch, i just 'forced' the lens one time to make a deep contact to the switch and now the unit works.
Thanks for the hint - I´ll try that!
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yup sorry i forgot tu put the link for the 'by ear' method:
http://www.pcenginefx.com/forums/index.php?topic=8926.0
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yup sorry i forgot tu put the link for the 'by ear' method:
http://www.pcenginefx.com/forums/index.php?topic=8926.0
thanks, but adjusting "by ear" would require the cd actually spinning - which isn´t the case with my drive. i see the laser light, the sled doesn´t move and no spin at all (motor isn´t dead though). I moved the sled halfway into the middle of the worm gear and after a start up it doesn´t move back to the center - the laser keeps lighting, no reaction.
This happens now since I replaced the caps near the volume wheel, that I originally left untouched, as I didn´t have a replacement for them till yesterday.
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First step of the method is to make the cd spin :wink: loook for the VR102 passage...
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Addendum: Adjusting the pots by ear!
Adjusting your duo's pot can be a daunting task for anyone. With the high cost of replacement hardware, none of use want to permanently damage our precious Duos! Here I will try and explain in idiots terms, the adjustment of the Duo pots.
Preliminary setup:
I do my adjustments live. Meaning I have the system on and hopefully spinning / reading the disc while I do adjustments. To facilitate this, I remove the magnet from the CD lid (turn the retainer ring until it releases the magnet) And then I place a piece of tape or whatever over the lid closed switch. At this point I place an audio CD on the spindle and place the magnet on top of it to hold it in place.
Adjustment:
I use a small philips screwdriver to turn the pots. If you look closely at them, they have 4 little notches that a screwdriver fits into perfectly.
Once you have a CD in place and everything is ready to go, turn on the system. If you don't want to connect your Duo to a tv, you can use headphones instead. Press the run button on the controller. If the CD starts spinning.... Great! If not, we'll start with two of the pots:
VR102 and VR104
VR102 has a small range of adjustment in which the CD will start to spin. If you turn it and the cd starts to spin, then you know you have found one end of the adjustment. Keep turning it until the CD stops again. Once you know approximately where those two points are, you can find a sweet spot in the middle.
VR104 seems to be similar to VR102 in that there is a certain range in which the CD will spin. Again try and find the sweet spot in the middle of the two points of spin/no spin.
By this point, hopefully you have the CD spinning, and maybe even attempting to read! So lets move on to the next pot/s.....
VR101 and VR103
VR101 is kind of a by ear pot. There seems to be a small range that works for proper cd playback. Typically it seems to be in the 0 to 45 degree range with 0 degrees being horizontal. You should hear some scratchy funny noises when VR101 isn't adjusted properly. Try and find a quiet spot for it. If you go too far it will get very noisy. Hopefully you can find a spot where the CD audio will start to play.
VR103 is, from what I can tell, an error correction adjustment. Hopefully you have got a CD spinning reliably at this point. You might hear a whiney faint scratchy noise at this point.... adjust VR103 clockwise until the noise goes away. If you go too far, the noise will come back only it will be a lower tone and not sound good. :P Try and find the sweet spot where the laser operates quietly.
VR105
Lastly, VR105.... This is an adjustment for the spindle speed correction. I'm not 100% on the best way to describe adjusting this one. Basically if the spindle speed starts to run away (go REALLY fast) then you've gone too far. Hopefully by this point, your CD will play music. Try and play later tracks on the CD and if they struggle to play, try adjusting VR105 until you can play all the tracks reliably.
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Thanks for trying to help me, I already got the right values for VR102, but I never get the spindle to spin. I JUST DON`T GET THE RIGHT VOLTAGE on the other pots, so adjusting is useless...
I already replaced the 7805 voltage regulator just in case.
What else could be the problem?
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Maybe the lens itself.
When the cd still doesn't work after having set the plots, i assume the lens is dead and just swap it with a new one. Always worked 'til now.
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Maybe the lens itself.
When the cd still doesn't work after having set the plots, i assume the lens is dead and just swap it with a new one. Always worked 'til now.
Well, strange situation. I can adjust VR102 freely in Voltage, but when I turn the other pots, the values don´t change AT ALL. Is it really the laser? I can see it light (weak though, hardly visible).
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I can't tell, i never measured the voltage at the plots, only the resistance.
I'll check on a working unit and tell you.
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I can't tell, i never measured the voltage at the plots, only the resistance.
I'll check on a working unit and tell you.
That would be nice! Could you post voltage, resistance and a picture of all pots perhaps? I think this might help others too!
An additional asset would be a closeup pic of the laser pot too, just to see in which position it is as a standard...
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No problem. I'll do that this week-end.
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Sorry for the late reply, i had a busy week-end :mrgreen:
So here are the settings of the plots on a flawlessly working unit:
(http://img11.hostingpics.net/thumbs/mini_194040IMG00005.jpg) (http://www.hostingpics.net/viewerf55d.html?id=194040IMG00005.jpg)
And this is how i measured voltage and resistance:
(http://img11.hostingpics.net/thumbs/mini_325616IMG000099.jpg) (http://www.hostingpics.net/viewer1e74.html?id=325616IMG000099.jpg)
And now the values:
Voltage:
AB AC BC
vr101: 0.36 0.09 0.45
vr102: 1.34 1.25 2.59
vr103: 0 0.02 0.02
vr104: 0 0.03 0.03
vr105: 0 0.17 0.18
Resistance:
AB AC BC
vr101: 14.83 4.95 17.78
vr102: 8.21 5.34 10.57
vr103: 3.25 14.75 16.84
vr104: 3.23 15.71 17.70
vr105: 0 0.60 0.60
Just figured i forgot the lens plot pic, i'll post it tonight.
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Thank you for posting your results.
I think I am getting closer. Today I replaced the laser, which gave me bright red spot in the lens. So actually the laser REALLY was dead.
I then adjusted the pots to match your photo (I don´t get the Ohms like you did...they´re never fit near your values, at least on leg on every pot always is off).
Drive would start - sled moves to inner track, laser light is coming on, then silence. No focus movement (I can´t hear ANY). Then the drive shuts off after a few seconds. When I repeat the whole procedure while I hold the drive at an odd angle, the spindle would spin up, run for a few seconds and then the drive shuts off. The "Repeat" light would occasionally light up, and/or the LCD display would flicker.
Is it probably a controller chip on the small board beneath the buttons?
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sounds like your pots may be a bit off
also you wont hear focus, but if you watch the lens it should bob after centering
if instead it jumps to any extreams and stays there you have an open feedback loop in the focus or tracking amp circuit
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also you wont hear focus, but if you watch the lens it should bob after centering
if instead it jumps to any extreams and stays there you have an open feedback loop in the focus or tracking amp circuit
No, it doesnt. Just stays there and doesn´t move at all after centering. Laser light is good though. I wonder what that may be...
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Did you test the lens with your original plot settings? This settings may vary from a system to another...
I think tou're really not far... Try the "by ear" method, i'm sure it will solve the problem now that you have a new lens. It may take time at first, but i you follow carefully the steps of the method, it will eventually work.
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THe only thing that happens is that the LCD flickers, the "Repeat" LED comes on and off blinking very very fast. Drive speeds up only when I hold it at slight an angle...otherwise it doesn´t speed up at all. No pot setting changes that behaviour...
Anyone here that knows a little more on CDROM drives?
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So far I have replaced the CD power driver BAxxxx, and now I get a stable light and there is no erratic lighting up. However laser/sled don´t move anymore - no reaction from the unit except that it is "on". Laser looks perfect bright and sharp.
Unfortunately before I did that an SMD piece burned up and vanished. It is located right beneath the plastic IFU-connector (you cant get to it without completely desoldering it). I am guessing that this is the reason why the CD starts to spin as soon as I switch on the IFU (it didn´t do that before, and the BAxxxx certainly isn´t connected to that, as I replaced it afterwards).
Has someone probably got an idea what that tiny SMD was and knows its values? That would help me.
I am doing my best to get it working...I see it as a test object. Would be happy for any info.
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check the 4 pin ribbon from the laser
sounds like it may not be connecting
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check the 4 pin ribbon from the laser
sounds like it may not be connecting
I don´t think that this will help a lot (laser is completely new), since a tiny SMD below the SCSI connector burned up - the only way to reach it is to completely desolder the whole connector. And then I don´t know what piece it was- resistor or cap, nor the value of it.
Apart from that the CDrom doesn´t boot up in the IFU, but outside of it it powers on...
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check the 4 pin ribbon from the laser
sounds like it may not be connecting
I MADE PROGRESS!!! It wasn´t the 4pin laser ribbon, I checked it with a dead unit - focus worked. And it also worked on the new laser.
Now, a short overview what I did so far:
-changed Laser
-relubed Gears
-changed out broken Gear with Chop´s Gear
-Replaced 7805
-Replaced BA6290A
-complete Cap replacement
-resoldered the burned connection below the SCSI plastic connector (the one that fits into the IFU)
-re-adjusted pots again TODAY to recommended values
Drive now finds TOC!
Only downside: >>>>> SLED DOESN´T MOVE AT ALL <<<<<<<
>>>>> LASER ONLY FOCUSES AFTER I TIP IT TO CENTER SWITCH! <<<<<<
Both problems are connected to each other - if sled doesn´t move to center, no focus/CD check.
So do I have a dead sled motor?
Or is it the movement circuit?
Where would I have to look for a dead solder joint considering the sled circuit?
I think I AM VERY CLOSE, since the Drive is finding the TOC, and when I move the pots I can hear that it is going to react to it like everybody else described, so I think the relevant parts must be still functional.
Anybody with a hint perhaps?
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That's what they do with bad gears
Try turning the sled motor by thumb across gear
It should turn easy
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That's what they do with bad gears
Try turning the sled motor by thumb across gear
It should turn easy
Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk 2
It must be the motor. I tested it with a 1.5 V battery, and it ran slowly with intermittent stops (would move on if I turned its gear for a tooth or two). It had trouble running the whole lenght...so I will have to replace it. Let´s see by the end of the week (hopefully I have my replacement motor then), if it was that. I´ve got another drive that is working, and the motor there is much much quieter.
What I saw from chop´s gear is that it puts a lot of resistance on the motor as they turn much harder (even with lubrication and the motor screws loosened). I think any replacement plastic gear of appropriate pitch size must match.
Did someone perhaps try other nylon gears? Would be interesting to know....
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Check to see if the middle gear moves freely with your fingers.
Usually the middle gear swells up over time making it almost impossible for the motor to spin it.
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Check to see if the middle gear moves freely with your fingers.
Usually the middle gear swells up over time making it almost impossible for the motor to spin it.
It´s a chops gear, so it cant swell :wink:
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Oh okay, I must have skipped over the part where you mentioned changing the gears.
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Even chops gears should turn easily
If not run a paper between the gears with the motor screws slightly loose to set the tooth fit
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So I replaced the motor today, which is totally new (Mabuchi FF 050SH). Gears turn easier now than before.
But the motor still won´t spin up for some reason, the sled stays where it is, no matter where. Only after I push it to the center switch the laser comes on, starts focusing, finds disc, spindle starts, TOC read. But NO SLED MOVEMENT.
The strange thing is, before I replaced the dead laser the sled moved!
Whats causing this?
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PROGRESS!
Well, I´ve played again with it for a few hours. I finally found a broken solder spot on one of the BA6290s and right after that the sled moved again.
After a little bit of fiddling with the pots I got stable audio (though with a cracking noise in it). It would play the first 3 tracks, then it would cut out after trying to find the next track. With another CD it was even better, though it wouldnt play until the end. Inbetween I occasionally get a cracking/random noise, which I cant complete remove by adjusting the pots...
But with all progress made I can´t get it to read Game CDs for some reason. It would try a few seconds, then it cuts out. What could I do?
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Any crackle will cause data errors preventing game load
If everything is moving smoothly its either pots or laser
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Any crackle will cause data errors preventing game load
If everything is moving smoothly its either pots or laser
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It is moving smoothly when playing music, though progressivly more cracking in sound (not drive itself!) when the laser moves outward on later tracks.
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that sounds like pot adjustments to me
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that sounds like pot adjustments to me
Trouble is, I´ve played around more than 2 hours with the pots, to no avail. Best I get is sound playing, but with crackling noise in it. On the other drive I adjust it within 15 mins....
Any other issue that might prevent a good setup?
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This is why I hate messing with the cd-rom2 unit.
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This is why I hate messing with the cd-rom2 unit.
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Yes, I get your point. But what can I say.....I fell in love with the interchangeability of components... :-"
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Have you tried a slight adjustment of the pot on the laser
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Have you tried a slight adjustment of the pot on the laser
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laser is brand new
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Sadly, it doesn't matter
I've had to adjust more new then old
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Sadly, it doesn't matter
I've had to adjust more new then old
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Ok, so you mean turning down laser power partly resolves that?
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Often on a new laser turning it down helps allot
Especially with cdr
Duo laser cw increase
Cdr2 ccw increase
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Y I I P P I I - K - Y A A A A A A A Y Y Y Y Y Y ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
I´ve got a working drive now! After fiddling around for 14 days I finally made it. Man, it feels great to have done yourself. Can´t say how proud I am... :dance: :dance: :dance:
Low loading times, and so far no cutout of music/video. No sound issues. No weird sounds from the drive during loading except for chop´s louder gear.
I would like to thank the following members for their help and support in getting me thus far:
Keith Courage
thesteve
fidde_se
BlueBMW
deubeul
Without you I wouldn´t have made it, at least not within that short timespan...I really appreciate the help and knowledge on this forum!
There are however still 2 issues left:
1. Sled is still moving outwards after spindle shuts down or PCE gets rebooted, or when the drive gets power thru the plug.
2. The two BA6290 and the area on the PCB surrounding them gets VERY HOT. I almost burned my finger, when I touched the solder spots. On my other drive they stay rather cool....
Any clue how I could solve the last 2 problems? I am really really happy that the drive is working now, but I don´t want it to take damage again, so getting it to run reliable without acquiring a new "virus" would be very cool.
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They are the same prob
The ba chips are simple audio amps
They work like op-amps
Each chip has 2 bridged amps in it
They drive the lens 2 ways, spindle and sled (4 channels)
Each having a + and - input
If + = - all stop
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They are the same prob
The ba chips are simple audio amps
They work like op-amps
Each chip has 2 bridged amps in it
They drive the lens 2 ways, spindle and sled (4 channels)
Each having a + and - input
If + = - all stop
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I lost you on the last line...what does "+ = -" have to do with overheating? Since they are soldered in both the way front to back + pretty close to each other - what could I do? Polarity is correct...
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its an op-amp
it uses balanced inputs
it gets hot because its not shutting off completely
each amp has 2 inputs known as +in and -in (not power)
when they match the output is off
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Look up the datasheet for those BA chips and find out which pins are the + input and - input and check them with a meter. In other words, you should get some negative voltage on one pin and the opposite positive on another. The data sheet should show which pins are linked together. As steve said there are two inputs and one output pin for each amp. If for some reason you get say +5v on one input and 0V on the other input pin then you know the problem lies somewhere in the - input circuit.
Make any sense or did I just make it worse...
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actually these amps have 2 output pins per amp
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Look up the datasheet for those BA chips and find out which pins are the + input and - input and check them with a meter. In other words, you should get some negative voltage on one pin and the opposite positive on another. The data sheet should show which pins are linked together. As steve said there are two inputs and one output pin for each amp. If for some reason you get say +5v on one input and 0V on the other input pin then you know the problem lies somewhere in the - input circuit.
Make any sense or did I just make it worse...
Does completely make sense. But I am not sure why they should be the problem - I have replaced the old ones with brand new ones....
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actually these amps have 2 output pins per amp
Here´s the datasheet:
http://www.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets_pdf/B/A/6/2/BA6290A.shtml
I don´t get much out of it as it is unfortunately almost completely japanese....
Are we talking about pin 1, 6 and 12? I have measured 1 + 6 (+) vs 12 (-). They don´t show negative voltage.
Or am I wrong and it is 2 +3 (both +) and 10 + 11 (both +) vs 12?
EDIT: Ok I got it wrong. Pins 4+5 (In) and 2+3 are the outputs respectively. Same is Pins 8+9 (In) and outputs for them are 10+11. Right?
How would I measure - say, between 2 + 5 and 3 +4? Or between 4+5 and 2+3?
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Pin 6 is ref voltage
Look at the application schematic
It shows the required resistors
Outputs 2,3 are inputs 5,6
Outputs 10,11 are inputs 8,6
So if pin5 = pin6 pins2 and 3 will be the same voltage
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Pin 6 is ref voltage
Look at the application schematic
It shows the required resistors
Outputs 2,3 are inputs 5,6
Outputs 10,11 are inputs 8,6
So if pin5 = pin6 pins2 and 3 will be the same voltage
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Ok, thanks for the guidance! What if they don´t match...where would I have to look for or what I could do to solve this issue? All resistors around measure fine and aren´t broken.
The only thing is my VOM cant measure the two caps between the BA6290...I don´t get reliable results back (even if I try my other drive...).
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thats not an issue
find the output that isnt resting (shown with coil load on usage schematic)
meter across the pins shown hooked to a coil
check all 4 output sets before proceeding
if just 1 set is active, trace its input pin back
if both sets on a chip are active its likely a referance issue
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thats not an issue
find the output that isnt resting (shown with coil load on usage schematic)
meter across the pins shown hooked to a coil
check all 4 output sets before proceeding
if just 1 set is active, trace its input pin back
if both sets on a chip are active its likely a referance issue
thats not an issue
find the output that isnt resting (shown with coil load on usage schematic)
meter across the pins shown hooked to a coil
check all 4 output sets before proceeding
if just 1 set is active, trace its input pin back
if both sets on a chip are active its likely a referance issue
Ok, here is what I did:
-Put the drive upside down, with the bottom open.
-Switched it to "Play", drive spun up, then lost focus and spindle stopped. Then drive moves sled 2-4 teeth to check for inner position (you can hear the gear for a brief moment then). It never spins up, just keeps searching for disc/focus. Sled wouldn´t move to outer position at any time.
-At that point I started measuring:
Since there are 2 BAs, I´ll give you the position of resistors so that you can locate the points:
At resistor position R146
Between 2 and 3: Voltage varied from -1.5 to +1.5 (probably during inner pos/foc check, since it moved on the VOM shortly after that sound I mentioned)
At resistor position R145
Between 5 and 6: Voltage 0
At resistor position R150
Between 6 and 8: Voltage 0
At resistor position R134-R136
Between 10 and 11: Voltage stable 0
At Capacitor C138:
Between 2 and 3: Voltage stable at 0.03
At resistor position R143
Between 5 and 6: Voltage shortly around 0.15, then 0
At resistor position R142
Between 6 and 8: Voltage shortly around 0.15, then 0, faint noise when touching with VOM tips (sounds like from a coil - laser coil?)
At Capacitor C137:
Between 10 and 11: Voltage stable at 0.15
Positive Pole from VOM was always on the lower Pin number (ie 2, 10), neg on the higher (ie 3, 11).
Does that tell you anything?
I´d like to add that apart from the sled issue this drive is working very very good - it has absolutely low loading times (even on CDRs, though losing audio at times) - eg Shapeshifter (original) starts up after ca 15 sec and levels load fast during gameplay. I really would like to get it stable....
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So it didn't have the issue while testing?
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So it didn't have the issue while testing?
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No, the heat/sled issue is still unsolved. Strangely loading times seem not to be affected.
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Check connection between pin6 both chips
Your .15 output reading was wrong
The coil noise when touching with probe indicated high resistance (possible open)
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Check connection between pin6 both chips
Your .15 output reading was wrong
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Between what?
I confirm .15 WAS correct, I checked 3 times. Had it been 0 I would have said so. You think my VOM is glitchy?
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no i think your issue was producing 0.15
it should have been 0 but it wasnt
the same chip had an offset 0.06 on its other output as well so i suspect its pin6 isnt connecting solidly to the cxa1082 or has a resistor prob related to that chip
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no i think your issue was producing 0.15
it should have been 0 but it wasnt
the same chip had an offset 0.06 on its other output as well so i suspect its pin6 isnt connecting solidly to the cxa1082 or has a resistor prob related to that chip
Ok, thank you for verifying that. I´ll check for this...hopefully I´ll find something...
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Ok, I checked again all connections around the 2 BA6290s, everything had connection (lower PCB side).
On the upper side I verified all resistors I could access without desoldering items. Every resistor had matching numbers within tolerances. All connections to the CXA1082BQ seemed fine (the ones that I could check a little below and above pin #20, the others arent really accessible), connection between resistors and CXA also are fine.
I don´t know where else to look for...maybe a cap that has gone bad (although I replaced them first before I did anything else)?
There are two E474 SMD caps, where I don´t get results with my VOM...from the number I´d say it they are 16V/470uF?
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Might be 0.47uf
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Might be 0.47uf
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Do you think it could be responsible for this issue?
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Nope
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Ok. Since I can´t find the source of this error and the drive is working fine except for the heat issue, I´ll leave it the way it is. At least it is working and is reading every CD fine....guess I should be happy anway.
Thank you though for your support!
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Hi guys, I use this topic to avoid opening another one.
I decided to bring back to life a dead CDR² unit. I know mine had a middle gear issue, and send my regards to PC Kid from the French forum dedicated to NEC consoles, who provided me a new gear, that he made with a supplier he know. The easy part with the old one is it turn into dust very quickly with age.
(http://s4.postimg.org/tjqwwc7qx/DSC_0891.jpg)
(http://s4.postimg.org/6jk9k09x5/DSC_0892.jpg)
(http://s4.postimg.org/6ku7dfbqx/DSC_0893.jpg)
Once done, I removed the little plastic chips stuck in the grease, check the complete rotationof the new gear and I used a original game and I did face to the "Wait a Moment" issue.
Ok so the CD spin it's a good point, but I decided to test first an audio CD, Tesseract Altered State, tracks are detected quickly then only scratching noise when attempting to read then stop quickly. I decided to adjust directly last pots while reading.
For that I removed the bottom case, put down an isolation paper to avoid short and give it a try on VR105.
the audio came back and the reading seems smoothy with less mechanical noises.
I did try a CD game (Spriggan) with success but I encountered some issues with SCD.
With Deden no Den I had Macroblocking picture right after launching the game and with Emerald Dragon green screen.
I think I'm not too far from fixing it, and I think perhaps I'll have to check again the VR105 (Voltage control oscillator right ?) I can have an oscilloscope for testing RF pin, so any screen example will be appreciated.
Thanks.
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fixed.
super system card on Everdrive + SCD + CDromrom = don't works.