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Non-NEC Console Related Discussion => Chit-Chat => Topic started by: johnnykonami on December 12, 2015, 07:52:53 AM
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There's a lot of people doing repair work and mods on this site, so I figured I'd ask the experts. I've done some very easy mods in the past, putting a modchip in my Saturn and in my Dreamcast, both of which were 4 wires or less to solder if my memory serves.
I'm interested not only in doing repairs on game consoles, but I also have always wanted to build a MAME cabinet and maybe pickup an arcade machine or two. I want to try and repair/restore some C64 computers I have as well. I also love electronic music instruments and wanna start building some of the small synth kits out there like these:
http://store.synthrotek.com/Atari_Punk_Console_Kit
https://www.adafruit.com/products/2648
I have an old soldering iron I got from Radio Shack in the early 2000's for like $10 bucks but I was wondering if I would enjoy using a nicer one. I have some wick and solder and a tip cleaner I never quite figured out how to use (just put the hot tip in it back when I was using it, it's like a tin of really hard waxy stuff).
I've also wanted to get a voltimeter for a while too, a decent quality but bang for your buck type would be good. Anything else you could recommend too, I plan to start collecting these tools for many future projects.
Thanks!
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Hmm...how many watts is your iron? Typically if you was working on computer/videogame boards boards you want it under 10 watts or so to avoid scorching the board. I never like the desolder wicks...some swear by them but i use a desolder pump. Very easy to use.
Have a multimeter? You should get one to measure capacitance. Not a necessity, but useful. Just hacing a multimeter to test continuity is extremely helpful.
What kind of solder and what thickness or gauge is it?
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I swear by the Hakko FX-888 soldering iron. They're under $100 and last forever. They work fantastic for everything. If you really want to get hardcore, a Hakko FR-300 is a fantastic desolder gun but a little pricey.
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ok for starters a temp controlled iron
it doesnt need to be adjustable, just controlled
solder wick is a must, as is liquid flux
holding tools are your preference and will often depend on your hands and the task at hand
get an eyeloop, it makes inspection so much easier
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Hmm...how many watts is your iron? Typically if you was working on computer/videogame boards boards you want it under 10 watts or so to avoid scorching the board. I never like the desolder wicks...some swear by them but i use a desolder pump. Very easy to use. Have a multimeter? You should get one to measure capacitance. Not a necessity, but useful. Just hacing a multimeter to test continuity is extremely helpful. What kind of solder and what thickness or gauge is it?
No idea, it's buried in a tool box underneath of some stuff in storage, but pretty similar to this:
https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-60w-soldering-iron?variant=5717846597
That's 60 watts, might even be the same model. I will check into desolder pumps, didn't know about those. I am looking for a Multimeter, can you recommend any good brands or models? Seems like Fluke is one of the better ones. I want a decently nice one but I don't need pro features, just good basics/value.
I swear by the Hakko FX-888 soldering iron. They're under $100 and last forever. They work fantastic for everything. If you really want to get hardcore, a Hakko FR-300 is a fantastic desolder gun but a little pricey.
Thanks! This is the sort of info I am looking for, brands/models you guys like and trust or think are easy to work with and reliable. A bit pricier than I thought but I will definitely add it to my tool wishlist. Not sure I'm ready for hardcore yet!
ok for starters a temp controlled iron
it doesnt need to be adjustable, just controlled
solder wick is a must, as is liquid flux
holding tools are your preference and will often depend on your hands and the task at hand
get an eyeloop, it makes inspection so much easier
My dad was a plumber, and I helped him out a couple times where we needed to solder pipe joints together. We always used flux then, so I get it's usefulness, but I never got any for the modchip jobs I did. I will pick some up for sure as well as check into eyeloops. I think I might benefit from a how to book on this kind of stuff if anyone has any recommendations on that also.
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I have a Weller brand 15 watt iron. It had worked great for me. Hakko is also a great name . also. I made a typo earlier. I stated an iron under 10 watts. I meant under 20 watts. Sorry about that!
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If you want to be cheap you can also get this:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__19240__Soldering_Station_with_Adjustable_Heat_Range_USA_Warehouse_.html
It's a knock off Hakko and takes Hakko tips. I've been using mine for the last couple years, and at that price you can buy two and still be ahead if you don't want to spend the money up front, or at least have something to mess around with. But like Beemer said above you get what you pay for in the long term. :)
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I use a Hakko FX-888 after all the recommendations on these forums. I like it a lot compared to the radio shack iron I was using before.
I use a Mastech MS8268 Multimeter. Honestly for the price... I think it's pretty amazing. It was only like $35 and it does everything I need and more. I have not had any problems with it and have been using it 3-4 days a week for almost the past year without issue.
I don't have one yet but I really want, plan to pick up, an Oscilloscope 40Mhz model. That way I can make sure the cd rom part of the console is exactly where it should be instead of guessing by playing 10'ish games to make sure it does work properly with anything I throw at it.
mickris in another thread said that kaynar wire 26awg is the best wire to use. From the pics I would have to agree.
Having some locking tweezers may help depending on the situation. Wire strippers and of course the proper bits to open up the consoles with.
I am getting into it pretty heavy myself and am mostly learning as I go. I find it a lot of fun doing stuff like this after work and watching some Netflix. More of a hobby thing than super serious and when I get to a point I don't want to solder I just fire up the Duo and play some games.
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A decent multimeter is good to have. I honestly use a cheap old $20 craftsman unit that I bought right out of high school for automotive work. I also have a Fluke scopemeter for really tricky stuff and an old HP O scope for even trickier projects. Things like oscilloscopes are a little overkill for just getting started though. A good meter helps. Oh and one of these things... LOVE THESE THINGS.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B010TOTT58?psc=1
I like the ones that clamp to the edge of a desk. They are amazing though
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Thanks for the suggestions guys! I added that multimeter to my list too. I will also save up for the hakko since I'm getting a pretty good consensus from around here. I just figure the job will be easier if the tools are of good quality.
I am interested in oscilloscopes for sure, but it's more of a musical thing rather than working with electronics (yet, anyway since I really don't know how to use one in that sense.) I'd love to hook up some analog synthesizers and see what is happening to the wave forms in a visual way though. I know they're expensive and I don't really need one just yet.
The desktop magnifier seems a little easier to use than an eye loupe to me, that's originally the kind of thing I had in mind. I will probably get one of those eventually. Right now I'm happy to have a target for a new iron, a multimeter, and a kit to work on (probably the atari punk since it looks pretty simple and it has control voltage inputs which appeals to me.) I might need a dremel for doing some work with cases and altoids tins and the like, I should look those up also.
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I think, the fear about having too much power in the soldering iron is unnecessary: As long as it is temperature controlled station and has changeable tips suitable for fine as well as tough jobs, feel free to go with 80 w or so.
You want enough power so the iron is able to keep the temperature stable over time, allowing you quick soldering of sensitive components, instead of cooking them slowly for too many seconds.