PCEngineFans.com - The PC Engine and TurboGrafx-16 Community Forum
NEC TG-16/TE/TurboDuo => TG-16/TE/TurboDuo Discussion => Topic started by: tjsnh on November 02, 2016, 10:55:21 AM
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Incase anyone else has HuCards yellowed from age after a previous owner left them in the sun for prolonged periods of time for whatever, I can confirm that retrobright works wonders and restores them to a beautiful white shiney luster and does so VERY quickly - far faster than with other yellowed plastics I've come across. One hour under the blacklight and a highly-yellowed Bonk's Adventure is now squeeky clean.
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Yes.
My results from 6 (7?) years ago:
http://www.pcenginefx.com/forums/index.php?topic=7383.msg141712#msg141712
Glad it worked out! :mrgreen:
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WOW your gear was a LOT worse off than mine! (at least the CD-ROM)
Can't even begin to explain how glad I am that someone figured retrobright out.
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Yeah it was pretty bad. The CDROM2 had been heavily smoked on: It arrived with Mild Seven cigarette cartons and empty packets as the packaging material. lol. Smelled like a dirty ashtray before it came out of the box.
I should say that after 7 years, there has been some re-yellowing of the controllers, but they were in a relatively bright room in California, so that is to be expected. As long as you keep them out of the light you should be OK. I don't think that they will spontaneously re-yellow if you keep them in the dark. My IFU/PCE/CDROM2 are still newish looking now that I'm checking... :D
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does this doodoo work on teeth?
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please dont whiten anything with the boards in it
its extremely corrosive and can destroy them
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please dont whiten anything with the boards in it
its extremely corrosive and can destroy them
Word. I kinda like the look of my lung-cancer brown Vigilante hucard anyway.
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please dont whiten anything with the boards in it
its extremely corrosive and can destroy them
Yeah, I should have mentioned that - best to stand the card upright so only the bottom half is dipped in.
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please dont whiten anything with the boards in it
its extremely corrosive and can destroy them
Word. I kinda like the look of my lung-cancer brown Vigilante hucard anyway.
:lol:
Yeah there is something to be said for taking all of the boards out. Steve is totally right. I wouldn't "dip" one at all, maybe add more Xanthan gum to thicken the mixture and paint it on, careful to avoid the edges for leakage...
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just use 40 volume hair cream from Sally Beauty Supply.
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just use 40 volume hair cream from Sally Beauty Supply.
LOL! How'd you figure out that worked?
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just use 40 volume hair cream from Sally Beauty Supply.
LOL! How'd you figure out that worked?
He was bleaching his goatee.
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just use 40 volume hair cream from Sally Beauty Supply.
LOL! How'd you figure out that worked?
He was bleaching his goatee.
LOL! Then it was like :idea:
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just use 40 volume hair cream from Sally Beauty Supply.
LOL! How'd you figure out that worked?
I saw a youtube video a while back of someone using it to whiten up a snes.
It's a paste that has hydrogen peroxide in it. No need to make retro bright. I use it for plastics all the time. I think I've done maybe 20 hucards now and none of them have ever been damaged from the process. Apply the paste, set in sun or UV lamp for 12-24 hours, then wipe them off with a wet paper towel. Some plastics that are crazy yellow sometimes require a 2nd application.
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Retr0bright works really well in bringing back the original white shine of ABS plastics. Last year I tried RetroBrite on my Commodore A1200. Worked wonders but after a while it started yellowing again but not as bad as before.
So started looking for more info when I saw the yellowing coming back and found this post with very interesting info https://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/retrobrite-the-yellow-strikes-back-t6084.html