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NEC TG-16/TE/TurboDuo => TG-16/TE/TurboDuo Discussion => Topic started by: Magister on January 31, 2017, 04:47:01 AM
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Ok. Not sure if this is a taboo subject on the forums or not. Sorry if it is. And please delete this thread. Anyways. I just ordered a Turbo Everdrive and can't wait to get it in. Been playing games on Magic Engine but it doesn't feel the same. I'm not one for collecting games, I just enjoy playing them and as much as I would like to have the original copy of the game, in recent years with the prices of some games going through the roof it doesn't seem possible to get my hands on some of them. I actually have a good library of Hucards, CDs and Super CDs.
That being said, I would like to burn copies of some of the more out of reach games(I'm looking at you Rondo of Blood) but can't seem to figure it out. Every time I put the files on a disc I get a loading error on my Turbo Duo. Any help would be great.
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It took me a while to figure out the proper burning steps too. The number one issue I came across was the CD image I was using wasn't 100% accurate. You have to make sure it's 100% accurate or it will not play in your DUO. Some images that aren't perfect will still play on emulators but not on real hardware. You need to get Turbo Rip. It's a sweet little program made by the member Nightwolve. It will check your image to see if it is legit. Once you verify you have a legit image then burn it using the free burning program called IMG Burn. Burn at the slowest speed possible then play in your DUO. Another issue could be that your DUO will not read CDRs. Have you ever gotten any CDR to play? Burn a music CD and see if it plays that for starters. PM if you want the proper Drac X image. Good luck.
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@Magister yes as far as I'm aware you can't discuss burning CDs of games where do you don't own the original copy of the game.
You could rephrase your thread and say I would like to burn CD back ups of my games that I own, such as Dracula X, nudge, nudge, wink, wink.
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You can talk about burning games all you want. The only related rule is that you can't post (or ask for) iso/rom download links.
Follow tbone's advice. Turbo Rip is great for ripping your own games and verifying that those you've downloaded are okay, and there's the TOC Fixer thing for fixing games that're off; and once you've got a good rip, burn it with Img Burn. It might take some trial and error to find discs that your system likes (I use Taiyo Yudens), or you might find that your system needs pot adjustments or a new laser to read CDRs.
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I use imgburn at 10x and never have a single issue.
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I use imgburn at 10x and never have a single issue.
imgburn is the tits.
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If it's a BIN/CUE I use an old ass copy of CDRWin that still works fine. If it's in demo mode it will also lock itself to the lowest burning speed your drive can do.
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If it's a BIN/CUE I use an old ass copy of CDRWin that still works fine. If it's in demo mode it will also lock itself to the lowest burning speed your drive can do.
Are you on Windows 10? My old CDRWin doesn't work on it sadly.
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Question: burning games
Answer: SINNING SINNER!
Question: Tapatalk signature
Answer: No. Just no.
Sorry. I work about 11-12 hours a day so the only time I'm able to get online is on my phone. :(
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@Magister yes as far as I'm aware you can't discuss burning CDs of games where do you don't own the original copy of the game.
You could rephrase your thread and say I would like to burn CD back ups of my games that I own, such as Dracula X, nudge, nudge, wink, wink.
I'll remember that in the future.
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It took me a while to figure out the proper burning steps too. The number one issue I came across was the CD image I was using wasn't 100% accurate. You have to make sure it's 100% accurate or it will not play in your DUO. Some images that aren't perfect will still play on emulators but not on real hardware. You need to get Turbo Rip. It's a sweet little program made by the member Nightwolve. It will check your image to see if it is legit. Once you verify you have a legit image then burn it using the free burning program called IMG Burn. Burn at the slowest speed possible then play in your DUO. Another issue could be that your DUO will not read CDRs. Have you ever gotten any CDR to play? Burn a music CD and see if it plays that for starters. PM if you want the proper Drac X image. Good luck.
Thanks for the advice. I found the files I needed in Paradise. (Wink, Wink) Just couldn't figure out how to put them on disc. I'll have to try burning a music cd and see what happens.
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I use Falcon Pro CD-Rs and they work great for me. I also use imgburn and all my rips are bin cue style. Haven't had an issue yet. I do wish my drive would go below 10x though. never thought I would ever say that.
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Do burn speeds really affect the outcome at all? Is it just a myth?
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I'm a bit confused. Paradise has a CUE and ISO file. Do I put both files on at the same time? I tried only putting the CUE one on first and then the ISO, but it won't let me.
Edit: Nevermind. I thought you needed the ISO file as well. Didn't know it was ONLY the CUE file you needed. Thanks again everyone for the help.
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Do burn speeds really affect the outcome at all? Is it just a myth?
If you burn too fast the old lasers can't read them as well or at all, but burning at 1x is just silly.
Like I said before 10x seems like a good middle ground, it's on the lower end of the spectrum and my systems have never had an issue at that speed.
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If it's a BIN/CUE I use an old ass copy of CDRWin that still works fine. If it's in demo mode it will also lock itself to the lowest burning speed your drive can do.
Are you on Windows 10? My old CDRWin doesn't work on it sadly.
I use Win7 and it still works on there. That sucks about it no longer being compatible, I remember battling with ASPI drivers with some software back in the day just to get the program to work.
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Do burn speeds really affect the outcome at all? Is it just a myth?
If you burn too fast the old lasers can't read them as well or at all
Why is this the case? Thinking about it, it seems to me that as long as a burner is able to burn a disc properly it shouldn't matter at what speed it did it at, no?
A long time ago I heard that burning at the slowest possible speed was just a myth, and the ideal speed is to burn at whatever speed the burner is rated at, not faster or slower. But now people say that it should be as slow as possible again, I have no idea what to believe.
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CDs were also much smaller in capacity when these drives were made and were never intended to read 50% larger discs.
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Sure but why would that have anything to do with how fast the burner does the job?
Maybe because faster burning may result in a higher chance to slightly missalign the tracks or something that makes it harder for lasers to read. Especially early CD lasers that are made for wider tracks I guess?
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Sure but why would that have anything to do with how fast the burner does the job?
The faster the drive (read or write), the faster the disc spins.
The faster the disc spins, the more distance that goes by the laser.
CD Burners use the laser to create lands and pits on a CD-R disc. The faster the writing speed,
the faster the laser has to cycle on-off.
Those are all facts.
The theory is:
The faster the burn speed, and hence the laser cycle time, the less defined the change from a land to a pit and vice-versa. (It takes time for the laser to shut off/turn on).
Since a cd-player recognizes only the change from a land-to-pit (and vice versa), slower drives may mistake a transition area for actual data (since it is longer than expected, due to the write speed).
Slower write speeds lead to better defined land and pit areas, and better recognition.
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BTW, this isn't a new problem. BITD, I had one of the first cd (audio) players available. I shortly thereafter purchased a 1x burner setup. Everything worked fine.
Then, due to an unfortunate accident, I had to replace the burner; I purchased a 4x model -
and found out that discs burned at 4x would not play in the cd player. I chalked it up to the player not liking writeable discs.
When a friend suggested lowering the burning speed, I couldn't understand why it would make any difference. But it did. Discs burned at 1x ( and even 2x with quality discs) were fine.
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I've had audio CDs work poorly in CD players from burning speeds being too fast as well. With the current burners I have I can make successful burns at 8X or 16X with no issues. So if 8x is a low as your CD burner will go that should be just fine. No need to try and hunt down an old burner that will burn slower.
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No need to try and hunt down an old burner that will burn slower.
Agreed. Newer electronics have faster switching speeds. I assume that the laser can switch on/off fast enough that the slower rated speeds have no problem creating short enough transition areas. Its the faster speeds that have problems; even if the drive can do it, the transition area may not be within tolerences. Which may be why slower speeds work.
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Thanks for the explanation.
You'd think that this transition time would be defined in the CD standard so that this conflict couldn't occur. But I guess the standard might have been streched over the years by drive makers.
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One also needs to keep in mind most cd/dvd drives of today can read just about anything due to having better parts.
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Hey OP,
Were you able to get any CDr games working?
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Hey OP,
Were you able to get any CDr games working?
Yep. Forgot that the TD had a dashboard to play CDs. Ugly dashboard btw. Took a bit to figure out. Thought you only needed the CUE file, but realized you needed the ISO file as well.
Thanks again for all the help. And thanks to everyone else as well.
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The dashboard for CD audio is kick-ass. #unfriended
Didn't say it was bad. Just ugly. :)
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I'm having trouble making a backup for some of my originals....
I have two options...
1. a CUE file and a single ISO file (the burning process using IMGBURN completes OK and the CD verifies OK). Plays OK on the console.
2. a "redump" image which is a CUE file and multiple BIN files for the audio tracks. This one seems to complete the burning process OK with IMGBURN but the verification seems to fail (mismatch at LBA: xxx). The CD seems to be playing OK on the console though.
I tried to burn it on another system with another cd recorder and got the exact same thing.
I tried another game but I get the same on another LBA position.
I am using Taiyo Yuden 700mb CD-R (JVC)
I went for "redump" image because they are supposed to be 100% accurate to the original. I searched the web but can't find any mention for something similar to what I'm having.
Any clues guys?
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Always do a single BIN and CUE. Anything else is asking for trouble.
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Actually I made a mistake, it was a CUE file and a single ISO file.... Is that good too? And I didn't rip it myself... in case that's what you mean by "Always do a single BIN and CUE"...I downloaded it.
But why could the "redump" images fail to verify since the burning completes without issue?
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Actually I made a mistake, it was a CUE file and a single ISO file.... Is that good too? And I didn't rip it myself... in case that's what you mean by "Always do a single BIN and CUE"...I downloaded it.
But why could the "redump" images fail to verify since the burning completes without issue?
Use TurboRip to make a dump of your original and then use ImgBurn to make a disc from that dump...
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Are burned games likely to damage your Duo though?
I use them on my PCE Duo with no issues, but I keep hearing that older drives (such as the PCEs/Turbos) have trouble reading burned discs, leading to shorter working lifespans. Any truth to this?
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I think some people need to feel justified in buying real games.
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Are burned games likely to damage your Duo though?
I use them on my PCE Duo with no issues, but I keep hearing that older drives (such as the PCEs/Turbos) have trouble reading burned discs, leading to shorter working lifespans. Any truth to this?
It is a proven fact that playing cdrs, playing original discs and not using your consoles at all, all leads to everything than can break down breaking down.
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Some CD-rs can be harder for a lens to read. I would try to stay away from light scribe discs for sure.
In my personal experience I find that Sony CD-Rs are the best but I'm sure everyone else has their favorite brand to use. Normal CD-R memorex and Verbatim are some of the cheaper(crappier brands) but most drives should still read them okay. However the inkjet printable verbatim discs are very high quality.
The cost and rarity of some of these games easily outweighs the risk of lens damage.
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Thanks for the responses. Ive had problems with Dreamcasts reading burned discs, even when it does it successfully you can hear the lens jumping around like crazy.
Perhaps older console drives that only spin at 1X speed are less susceptible to wear then later 4-8-12X + drives.
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Dreamcast is a different animal. There are some poorly laid out rips that cause a lot of seeking. Look for DCRes releases.
Most DC problems that people think are from the use of CDr are actually caused by the shitty lid switch.
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DC games were GD-ROMs. Even if a particular rip was small enough to fit on a cdr wuthout being hacked down, you shouldn't expect them to run as well as the real thing.
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If you get a high quality re-worked DC image they should run perfectly. Some people say they can, theoretically, even run better as some original images were not optimized properly with data scattered all over the place or had filler data to fill up the disc because the image was so small. I only use Revive DC (RDC) images when I burn my DC games and they play wonderfully. PM if you need any. I heard NO-BS images are good too.