PCEngineFans.com - The PC Engine and TurboGrafx-16 Community Forum
NEC TG-16/TE/TurboDuo => TG-16/TE/TurboDuo Discussion => Topic started by: brockmoreno on October 19, 2017, 01:49:02 PM
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Ok I just bought a PC Engine Duo and want to test and verify the CD drive works. I currently do not own any PCE CDs so I tried buring a ISO and I keep getting errors. Anyone every experience this? I am using IMGburn software and Verbatim discs.
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Managed to burn a few games to test but the duo does not want to read them. I get a load error.
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You are burning an ISO? Most games do not come as just an ISO. Normally there is a .cue file or something along those lines that is needed to make a correct burn.
You can test that the CD drive works correctly using a regular audio CD as well.
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I find that Verbatim CD-Rs do not read very well in PCE cd systems. I use Sony CD-Rs as they are the best quality left on the mass market(Target carries them) that may help you.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Yeah, you might just need different media. I use Taiyo Yudens, but there's no guaranteed brand that every system likes (gotta test 'em) or that you'll ever find one that it can use reliably.
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Test it with a music CD
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Test it with a music CD
Vestcoat lives!?!?!?!?
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Vesty!
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Test it with a music CD
What the f*ck?!?!?
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Test it with a music CD
Vestcoat lives!?!?!?!?
SRSLY.
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Vesty!
I
NO,
RITE?
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Test it with a music CD
I agree. You can’t diagnose a system based on what it does with media it was never meant to play. Try something legit on it and move from there.
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Test it with a music CD
I agree. You can’t diagnose a system based on what it does with media it was never meant to play. Try something legit on it and move from there.
CD-Rs were actually designed with the CD standard as the target. They were meant to work in as many CD drives as possible and follow the Red Book standard for technical specifications. Over time drives have improved their sensitivity and media has gotten cheaper (and more cheaply made), and modern CD-Rs tend to exceed the 74-minute Orange Book standard, but well-made 74-minute CD-Rs should be almost perfectly compatible with a Duo's CD mechanism. The real problem is finding affordable 74-minute media that doesn't suck.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CD-R
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I don't have experience with any PCE CD drives except the Duo that I own, but I've never had a problem using standard 80 min CD-Rs.
I've found that with mine, the most important things are matching the burner with the proper drive speed. You have to use a speed that is optimized for your burner instead of "lowest possible". My burner is about ten years old and on it's last leg. It will burn at 2x, but works best at 8x.
Ultimately, try different things and see what works!
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Voultar commented a bit on general use of CDRs on old consoles.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=stQ3yjSJavA&t=6915s
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Voultar commented a bit on general use of CDRs on old consoles.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=stQ3yjSJavA&t=6915s
Even cheap stock will not readily "exhaust" the mechanical parts of a CD drive. Yes, cheaper media produces some extra wear from longer seek time due to rereads, but without data actually quantifying the additional read time it is difficult to anticipate what any effects might be. Remember that most CD games do a load and then play a bit before loading again, and reading of CD audio tracks is without error-correction, and therefore don't feature seeking except at track restart or track changes. So actual mechanical impact, even in cases where seeking is significantly more difficult, will ultimately be minimal. Further, if the disc is too hard to read it will simply fail and not be read. So a CD can only actually be so much more difficult to read and still be viable. So while the guy talking clearly understands CD technology and CD-R technology, he's basically making a very conservative wild guess about wear since there really isn't any data out there.
But even common sense suggests that if you care about older equipment you take good care of it, so make sure you buy good CD-Rs. You don't cheap out on your ancient CD console. Why would you cheap out on the media you feed it? But if you put a low quality disc in and it reads you'll probably be just fine.
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I’ll say this because I guess it’s been a while.
I’ve never had any issues burning games. I can’t explain why since I don’t know. I don’t shop for burners or media based on price so that may have a small impact on things. A lot of people have some really cheap shit. Also, use quality images.
If CD-Rs destroy systems they sure take a looooooong time to do it. The logic behind the theory is shaky at best, IMO.
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If CD-Rs destroy systems they sure take a looooooong time to do it. The logic behind the theory is shaky at best, IMO.
It depends how much you use them, and the current state of your stuff.
You can detect impending laser doom sooner if you use garbage CD-Rs and find that it doesn't load or the audio is all skippy.
This applies to the PC-FX also.
but I mean, in the end it's about the same as playing really f*ckin scratched up discs in it.
The thing I avoid the most are those heavy/thick/dyed discs just because they're heavier and load like shit for some reason.
Reminds me of PS2s. They'd eventually start making gross noises when reading PS1 discs, or older (or was it newer) PS2 discs .
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PS2s are such shit. They will die being fed nothing but mint condition retail discs. Thankfully you can play games from an hdd so it's w/e.
I killed a Dreamcast due to heavy use. I played a lot of burns on it but I can't say if that was for sure a factor. I've played a lot of burns on my Saturn, Sega CD and Duo R and they are all fine. Haven't had the Duo R that long in comparison though.
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The Dreamcast had a noisy, cheap drive in it. But it was a modern drive, so CD-Rs should not have been any problem at all. The GD-ROM drive was just a cheap Yamaha CD drive with some minor customization, probably to the firmware and controller. AFAIK the laser and motors themselves are all identical to their CD-ROM equivalents.