Nice find. This is as I've expected for some time (as it's the most logical failure point), but I've not had a broken one one to test this theory. I suspect something similar going on in the Duo systems, but it's undoubtably a much bigger task since there are two seperate audio circuits (one for typical FM synthesis and the other for CD audio). CD audio isn't particularly complicated though. It normally consists of (after the drive) only a DAC and an opamp, and a few other little things like caps, so it really should be pretty simple.
I know that you marked the polarity, but it is important to stress to everyone that these caps are *polarized* and you can blow the electrolytic caps if you have it soldered in backwards. Also, pulling apart a Turbo Express can be pretty complicated for novices. It takes a bit of care to get everything back in there just right.
Nice work.
What the hell happened there in the corner? :PObviously, the marshmallow he was eating fell from his mouth and melted on the board. :)
Yeah, but one must wonder why they didnt just use the common shellac style coating. Maybe they thought the glue would help the heavier components from jolting loose from a drop.
Or, maybe someone brought their kids into work with their elmers glue bottles :lol:
Hey D-Lite, I just wanted to say thank you for posting such an informative (and picture filled :) ) rewiew and also i wanted to say that the sound fix works wonderfully. now if I could just figure out how to do the screen fix...
Anyhow, many thanks!
M.
Just replacing the single cap did not work for me. In fact, it made the sound stop working alltogether. The audio opamp NEEDS all four of those caps by design, but it just so happens that the one D-lite pointed out is most crucial for operation and will fix most peoples problems (but probably not 100%).
I dont think the screen can be replaced by replacing caps. The screen takes RGB input, and from my tests the signal comes almost directly off of the hu6260. Sounds like your screen itself is bad, and unfortunatly it probably cant be fixed. Old lcds like these are just really flakey.
When I have time, I have a modern LCD from a pocket tv that I plan on hacking to take RGB, and putting that in one of my Expresses. It will be nice to have a system with modern LCD.
Just replacing the single cap did not work for me. In fact, it made the sound stop working alltogether. The audio opamp NEEDS all four of those caps by design, but it just so happens that the one D-lite pointed out is most crucial for operation and will fix most peoples problems (but probably not 100%).
I dont think the screen can be replaced by replacing caps. The screen takes RGB input, and from my tests the signal comes almost directly off of the hu6260. Sounds like your screen itself is bad, and unfortunatly it probably cant be fixed. Old lcds like these are just really flakey.
When I have time, I have a modern LCD from a pocket tv that I plan on hacking to take RGB, and putting that in one of my Expresses. It will be nice to have a system with modern LCD.
Yes, no problem. I ordered the replacement caps from www.jameco.com (http://www.jameco.com/) You have to search by "catalog #".
You need two "193017". The originals are 33uf 6v, the jameco replacements are 33uf 16v.
You need two "192903". The originals are 100uf 6v, the jameco replacements are 100uf 6.3v.
Just a few pointers: you WILL need to pick up some desoldering braid for this job (radioshack). You have to remove the shields, and some of the posts are impossible to get to with a desoldering tool. A well placed piece of braid and fine tip soldering iron will make things easy. Also, it can be hard to get to the 100uf caps if your soldering iron isnt small enough. You can desolder the headphone jack for easier access. Its a lot more work, but it depends on what your working with. Good luck!
-Ben
Just replacing the single cap did not work for me. In fact, it made the sound stop working alltogether. The audio opamp NEEDS all four of those caps by design, but it just so happens that the one D-lite pointed out is most crucial for operation and will fix most peoples problems (but probably not 100%).
I dont think the screen can be replaced by replacing caps. The screen takes RGB input, and from my tests the signal comes almost directly off of the hu6260. Sounds like your screen itself is bad, and unfortunatly it probably cant be fixed. Old lcds like these are just really flakey.
When I have time, I have a modern LCD from a pocket tv that I plan on hacking to take RGB, and putting that in one of my Expresses. It will be nice to have a system with modern LCD.
Thanks to your post in another forum, I found out my GT isn't dead after all. The fuse was just blown. I bypassed the fuse and all is well.
However, I uncovered a different problem. I replaced the one cap D-Lite mentioned but my aduio is still not working. In fact, it didn't help anything at all. Looks like I need to replace the other 3 as well. Will you post those part numbers?
I may have some information soon to add to this thread regarding the sound circuit. Stay tuned (pun intended).
Yikes, I figured the explanation to fix the problem would be "shake the unit" or something an electronic moron could fix. Looks like I will have to stick to playing my Express with headphones... this looks like rocket science.
My broken Twin Famicom is also crying :(
So the sound and headphones were not working AT ALL on my Turbo Express and I did this mod - the sound now works in both the headphones and speakers - but its the infamous low sound. Low in both speakers and headphones. What do you recommend doing?
hello, just wondering if anyone around here would be willing to repair my Turbo Express. i have no soldering experience and i'm afraid i would mess up my Express if i tried to fix the sound issue myself
(i know an offer is in the original post, but that was back in 2005 and i don't know if that offer stills stands. i'm a noob around these parts)
hello, just wondering if anyone around here would be willing to repair my Turbo Express. i have no soldering experience and i'm afraid i would mess up my Express if i tried to fix the sound issue myself
(i know an offer is in the original post, but that was back in 2005 and i don't know if that offer stills stands. i'm a noob around these parts)
I do these repairs. Shoot me a PM if you're interested. I can also do a switchless region mod on it if you're interested.
considering speaker and audio seperately is a misconception.
the speaker connects to the headphone jack directly.
a full cap change will fix things you may not have noticed were degraded yet, while avoiding future failures
I get the same hum, and im pretty sure its normal. I dont know how it is on yours, but on mine it only occurs when the volume level is pretty high. My portable dvd player does the same thing (as do a lot of electronics).
It is also possible that one of the other dry caps on the board is allowing interference to bleed into the audio. When I have time I may replace all the other caps on the board, but its no rush because it sounds normal to my ears.
Finally got around to replacing some caps on my TE, did the one for the video and it now works and replaced the 2 100 6v for the sound plus the 100 16v next to those 2. Also replaced 2 other 100 6v that looked suspect. The sound is now very loud but I am getting a hum/buzz. Is this normal? Is this the sound the quoted poster is referring too? I've never had a working TE before so nothing to compare too. Thanks!
Edit:
I notice another post talking about a 60 cycle hum and replacing the 100 6v under the metal shield I am guessing that would be the fix? I tried to get the shield off but was having a hell of a time and gave up.
Just replacing the single cap did not work for me. In fact, it made the sound stop working alltogether. The audio opamp NEEDS all four of those caps by design, but it just so happens that the one D-lite pointed out is most crucial for operation and will fix most peoples problems (but probably not 100%).
I dont think the screen can be replaced by replacing caps. The screen takes RGB input, and from my tests the signal comes almost directly off of the hu6260. Sounds like your screen itself is bad, and unfortunatly it probably cant be fixed. Old lcds like these are just really flakey.
When I have time, I have a modern LCD from a pocket tv that I plan on hacking to take RGB, and putting that in one of my Expresses. It will be nice to have a system with modern LCD.
the speaker hooks to the headset jack directlyThanks for that. Can I possibly put a solder jumper to force the external speaker to work? Just to confirm it is the headphone jack.
the jack jumpers the speaker on when no jack inserted
the jack could be just dirty