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NEC TG-16/TE/TurboDuo => TG-16/TE/TurboDuo Sales & Trades => Topic started by: BlackandBlue on July 19, 2009, 01:59:43 PM
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I made this guide while I was changing out my last CD unit. The first time I did the swap, I looked around and did not see a guide and kinda wished there was one, so I decided to make one for anyone that wishes to attempt this swap on their own. I decided to make the guide near the end of the swap, which is why you will see the new laser in place in some of the pictures.
So, I went back and re-did everything just for you! :)
Items needed:
replacement laser (KSS-220a or KSS-162a)
TG16 or PCE CD unit
Tools needed:
Jewler's screwdriver set
Multimeter
Soldering iron
Solder sucker or braid
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iQktqXUPGPlGBxif7Bos8n5I0kylFDCzifw32_Q_70YcHdtsU1Rtw1rkU3iw4O61cz3ec7daB14Ju9N7Zf3usPJqMNiGJYP_efCwgCOX6MKPbIb-SlQuhVIZb0GwxOFwr2dZyC92SA)
Start out with your donar unit. If you opted for a brand new KSS-220a, it will come with a different type of track. Begin by removing The ribbon cables from the assembly. Then, remove the two screws that are attached to the sled gear (step 1 in pic). To remove the laser unit from the assembly, press in plastic tab (step 2), then slide out the metal bar (step 3). This will free the laser from the track.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/s4QxHcDn6Q2LjB_Dr5UIhC7iyl47HVAtwdWiRK0IbybVgiVFZtRgkrnqwOL9XKgvAuuGTKZooGc4vFnmu8hJzR4BVFdJOD0tS4ZK1FxVT2zxX5KDz4UpR0Wesm6fSxFHN9RD-BzMtQ)
Next, you will want to dissasemble the CD unit. Flip the CD player over and locate and remove the four screws that keep the bottom on.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2LTccznbjhC_A4zrPTU6Ob7ywzHjjuSabXxiD-6auJbGusQWOIqxwMwfGc1ADbp8wmNHp306NUhZfThmHzwnTzLaMfuqQMnBxhkYZh2fjdGwJgvFFf6q8Lb65JXIstHAeINPqgdDtg)
Be careful pulling the unit apart. On the TG16 version of the CD player, there is a ground wire that is attached to the sheilding of the bottom cover. I accidentally broke the solder point, but it does not effect the usage of the player.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aRs3xF3Ey8jG2iq5vxIeByEf_nL7hXlOlnJizVkJhhrBt_HE7m6121K5rMPxu0d4fRvGl4aI7zWBGF9n_827FgxAjye8LdwdG4cRrAsP2sa6aIa7xxdZVd5qqZ2KVGdb0Y8qGkzW_Q)
Next, remove the screw in the middle of the PCB. This will allow you to lift the board to allow access to the laser.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/t7BQHSFTZKxTuXQ4z7GK7lVCki-gLXkz9Gts6WqLs8b4zBL82M-aMqgQVUHCQA042-hzX-siClxiiBK-JHT_6e1YYL-0VdvbJNETQRvhSp6i2u5y-AeW3HZjJZuASs1oPQNjeJK-8g)
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Not so fast cowboy, there are a few ribbon cables and connectors that need to be released before proceeding.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FlTVhEFcxdXx4vHxQ9l4b_Jz2C1d5LGRBGWgQhv4p7xIcvW8IXHW_eElcisi2zL5YHKoCd31vfZ-6E_t2VVIUslBqYw0b1Olg6XDcQ7QnsKxdjm73BBa-G3GzIESZ9Fjy6QR7_35dQ)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kpCYyWJC0ZK_FNxSO7ckm3GuQ4LN9PJGoHd_R7Z9hoNBlSbxVDlJeXMRPAufsJhBfV9w7qKe_B1OuQQiWLcecY66VYWmSR_fV5MM3TxfjSVoWVimKqx0G2UrzyNQ330JJpsMpKBPlQ)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3eQw-4fsk2EQiGDMg9V7Gmf_b3tbQ-Bq3Ir8wJcMJ96r7TeQfHITxB0CYBYEPKth_ivBq15H55g7q-wSqVa3tU0LjHS--KwlGD_QOnHD3FvlVqd6dRrrqSH014RCYR4ntCKxYG556g)
To release the ribbon cables, pull down on the outter portion of the plastic housing and then pull out the ribbon cable. Do not use force or flex the cables, as they break easily and are a pain to solder back together. (Yes, I speak from experience)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/q3ZCKVTT1RPpjY0OGtKpc-rNcdD-O0SbcxgMsj_hvlNYS2V_i7xuFIYF3k-2B--7oiqwHD79CoZ9D-tOSFq9mc9cAXx_6yRBxLp2kTxLkCCYRhK6-cT1gnLZdaRH5MGD8KtDX5ydYQ)
Remove the ground strap from the larger of the two ribbon cables. It is held on by glue, so it should restick to the new cable when the time comes.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gu-gw9ml81-0fwZz5jncTIWU6n1-pPCABoBQ5vOt2dqyDbAriccOSt7arjIDQ1p8hzesEirhgWyEtPfPWshhCCrHNNURlXFGwKa9MD5ONqgdGoJ8m26CsNNnE6qKP8t03kueFJLbtw)
This shows the three connectors that need to be removed and their location for when you need to put the back in later on.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EhYP1PvVNCZyz0Uj_KOtX2FZ1sUSmtTCQZcTNjfaQrDduYPJUqMtjU7jJ4Mm3BXCJzWcOWTPCXLPmFdvFMGvLpL2tFZm4jJTKhetTGqMUBRcKFTy7DFcF9mBW8ndSfa_DiaY0TdUIg)
To help with room, take out the CD control PCB. There are four screws that hold the board down, one being a grounding plane (the longer of the four screws). You will then be able to lift the board out. Under here you will find the CD door switch. Make sure that it is not broken/bent.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9WxR9FVB9votsdLPoxFeXVywbBj9csRpBPp25XJ9-hNBxnUAlVfvAlvHzHd5w2YOoLwvUQT6rj9QuLfeF9taQ68d-MdEQUsBTbKYb3rmPu4jIh2AJbz29_RaOY9cruMCeC1vdhEJ7g)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fw3488Sk7eeTa2Tth4_1kfjD0OnNgcOviUQtW_2ayTKMlm0FltDxiRkRR6LymU_OnB-8ANVdomKYjZHmiap5N_6Zj4v-HSDfEmsfKmOoAcNTnT3nn-8rEfs8mVOoPRil8veuML7xnw)
Next, we will remove the CD assembly from the unit. Extract the three screws shown below. There is a spacer sorounding the inside of the screw. Be careful not to lose them.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jgwUllpKyWSpIQuJshy3EMUodkdbWdv05Dq6Mxgm-1RxurJAJ71rgGDGG347HVVPX_8s9TRuMM44baoe13H6UXVKkGZyVyZ6uGVNQX0OE-FGl_xQFKCNsZ0QsdW9Iu75hP1U4mvCAg)
After taking ot the screws, pull out the CD assembly. I found it easy to open the CD door, tilt the portion out closest to the back out the unit, and pull up. You'll figure it out.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RY7GvjC210Owj34WpJ9s115um3USJVVDIziqQarNu4hXP2R0NqjlMyKsOeFCxNV4xll3OEsHX1o8pA2JNsUkA4GYqhpzOqnWuiOE46ubdDCZtTWVlVPhEr7luz57nUBCYS8Aqzb8GQ)
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To gain access to the laser, you need to remove the cover. There are two screws that need to be taken out.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2OlCytk4wJNg6RT-6vfs-DvO29sS2IF9jixG-UuDVxR_jfXPhLbLzuHlfTxnYoWCkN1rJDqY6YfC7X2nzj-GvMmP9wK4TD9O6vr8LzEDMzpJS2h9hZCkEhY1uNImK5jaxEq0cukLlw)
I marked the center of my spindle motor before exctraction. There are a few paterns of screw holes on the top of the motor and I found this made it easier when replacing.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PnX4PJ33bEmZBDgnHXAnO4FIO56jwRK5pSdEEi7o11elo3543_EjXcBEG-IF3gYghQ1XOJSAZuXgR2kDvcXUyjkmdRazN-9n7Ln4w7IOMQID1Q3ODZkaa0bsye1oWesvBxJrCq8eBw)
To remove the spindle motor, turn the spindle until you see the screw through the hole. Rinse and repeat.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BkkacgX4edEygp8wUyWKKf_tzLhIhb3S6dYBI0xL4Y7QtxL0yYH9s1S9xK_XC_-KDi9OxSsyMIkE_PIV6IV42Z1ImVCoIcieTUYapA2p-JVcPYON1MnzFDV8UpvKj1KX0GB6azGofw)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ojTEdXQv_TKfons8waV2IXCIH1Kw5bh7g554qdBSKjalxxpK2AmELZdr9rTw0Luwa7LnTQ4zBOUfA1KC5vpo9dPncfk6tkmRj3_Oss3i53tsG-LKehPeGVySqlI5fyrWLjWPGdKm1A)
You can now remove the spindle motor. Make sure the laser is all the way to the outer portion of the track to allow room for the motor to come out.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dyPJJ3oqb5AfzR__UyE-TPP4tSaipJhlhSg6dJAcu7bv49OaiJ2YoKaQDB7nWozeEPEJz5kQvYC5vtkGC3lR3-vdV_MANl_oKQPWZRcHw2taU5vGOjnfKyQaxMiX8YJD4nwE45oSxg)
To begin removing the laser, you will need to free the ribbon cables. The larger one is attached by a metal clip. To remove, slide the clip and lift. The smaller cable is held in by tape. Take note of its path.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/o-tgcmq47jWTC4Mm44X99Z1D_fknFmIiqtVHObUUGtvRjq9GiId1Z566BYETqM8HdEuWLM8kZQbFLM5Dg9vQt1W7gc7dBb9_jUOPqRFlCv9Uj1q2zynGv2xpypZo-u_dbwJ9qT2PNA)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MzT0hfPj3qSF727-mkSnR0LqQNO_wcCS_vq7eK_JdfqPrZ1uK_YjDadpmesF8dcFnt2hhPV-FJuP5l3gIPfawmI5UFPTV_2hRHjimZlRHiMIHu4ynNKAccogeEwc1zmgQj8gGrtmmQ)
Flip over and remove the screws that attach the laser to the worm gear. Remove the middle scew first. This will release the clip that moves the laser assembly with the worm gear. Then, remove the outer two screws to release the remainder of the holder. Also note that the small ribbon cable is routed behind part of the plastic.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Fj3urIRx5w80H1a7zBNP04DfFeUEcg1MYLX4dd49GvBQGxrrHh64iSd0R0AS3fad5gNfu5HraTegcfEYoINTctp021rhSQjYD6YLXjVq7B2AHMsSdqoQapqjBhvdCtD_ePe_hXexlA)
Go to the other side and remove the two screws that hold down the metal bar.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nClt8LfgDJ-oIuxDOStS38tT4zqY3WVWBPuXM2MqFsmH3jqL7IsaPkgOIfFvAaAKNDuB-QCqFogIKMslXT2o00SEkq0yn1EGEDhSEFUXklytoX6K0YgXaxnk4wy3OddUM5tykhqXUw)
Remove the laser.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/e3YnKrOgNLQqySgWa_xezZd-CVpHercPGnmDHVl685fndpLmy3a3Z4bofyZ7noBliFQY0i2RFEvHXspEg7FRBYI17aFktMCD1l-0bJ1jSFeD-NU7Wlk7vgABgxqONwNgyqKHkLxegQ)
Switcheroo
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mUUcuK3YOFTL--uhylG9oAtPQWJqyJ4U6b0pviarSteeGZNTSbgwSiRuFkQeYgtZC4DK4PEscHREOzN9Xr4kqXRf3PtE7Qea4CiBAReHphb5y-XJSShBu9OgVdH5DGJJGjbua_qTDQ)
After you get the new laser in the sled (do the last couple steps backwards), you will need to remove the calibration solder from the larger ribbon cable, else it ain't gonna work.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wIROsoZ4paD_tz_kHhebR9bpflqp2aEpCmD_VlWgR_tR2UTrh_ScAiOV35N2iB0Vbs_IiYM-KSjF0Su9noOlxeV8DG_SlOyDDmUpyXwzvv_iP9i3TcvCLuArmwarBkAsChdBQ2-Z3Q)
Test the two leads on the ribbon cable that use to be soldered together to make sure there is no continuity between them anymore. Its the 3rd and 4th from the left (or right, depends how you are looking at it).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UR7wgOVXTj_oeLBNFNht0F8MepaG4MAKQ-h3C716AJrDbv75sujx3Rto_IWKWMzdub3o6V1RICyClMwNElcr2PZbqnlCi-KC7FJ__NUjVtI3XMlxHPj5lOhsPlkIbRqUesF9ABTbJA)
Now is a perfect time to re-grease the gears and worm gear. I used regular automotive grease. Applied with a tookpick.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/F12v9JN7OHg0i0Wf8ewRStHwSIYL-LCLsfl1kerdT8rT-W-OvegVRpTc6XebsA4tkFmpn5_KVvG5hluJ45z70_KnWM00DAEOp63gdUgCnfWFK00A_rhqfE12ygHhx-ing4KJkW2TXg)
Time to put the spindle motor back in. I found it easier if you put the screws in first, the slide the motor back into place. You marked the center before removing it right?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/coLpdqsnyXi5RfDnCahlxRDA7rNT65z0qz2R5egllCuqJvZBlk_AmFrH3k5tf-WLYI_-je2ODZ4HN1Hob_BA4-HCWhzE9i8Lv1XAtMyZTGD4XOI2kS9UE0Hf81oVs2KykJnUz2swYw)
Motor is back in. (recylcled image)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/F4BGcAfJR6dh1GAz3357Yk2BzgAQLw236Dz8o1qBG_7-U-20TunH9vAgIEtFzmx17F3dWuRUpyrxZ7RQvqEVbHjN4ZjJmj2ZWIxC3hnVhyMG1Wa73DoCD1ngCICJPEfxXrMC3qZCZA)
Now its time to reassemble the rest. Basically the steps all done backwards. A couple notes though.
-When you put the metal laser assembly cover back on, make sure the holes line up. There is a tab near the front that likes to be a pain.
-When putting the assembly back into the case, open the top of the CD drive like you did when taking it out. Makes life easier.
-When you are putting the CD control PCB back in, make sure the lid switch is in correclty.
-When putting the ribbon cables back in, make sure they face the right way. For the larger cable, the shinny part faces out of the case. For the smaller cable, the shinny part faces inside the case.
You should now have a working CD ROM (if you had a dead laser before, other problems aren't my problem).
Enjoy!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tVbIL3q6G3WasnZXxv-0MeNtxy1VxNC1CzOtuCp-21xdEwSi8wufBGXGt7Y2uek_8PvXyCjLS68Xo3XfD_tYg9PMCZBQEO0C_3hEQVTNVujecVxcX9Ob09Wl-KNQ2-D_ItuxxYfI3Q)
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EXTRAS!
If you purchased a brand new KSS-220a, then you have a few more parts you can use from the assembly. On the underside, there is a stop switch that you can use to replace a broken CD door switch in the TG16/PCE CD unit. It is the switch with the two blue wires on the underside of the assembly.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WCOXnOKyNrWYClYJtLRKtPLyzrRwGQVDmDRQaX0E4WrbuowHJoJMp323Z-YKxfPekxfCOnxA2jefPq8q3a91Mk6TDcLMaDkNFJ-fWGxJ_exEWYLprat2Nmb1h3_zI8nLytiMumV_tg)
Oh, there's more! If you have a bad spindle motor or just want to upgrade, you can use the motor and spindle from the replacement unit. In order to do so, you will need to remove the disc tray lid components from the CD door to allow for compatability. This will also solve the issue of CD's scraping the floor of the drive. I did this swap on my PCE CD drive and it works great.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/s_sYUGLnxP9we_n7hAOZXBsYKlCgQyyW2VY_wgwA-_1xX99ZbDZPp-b6YNVEkcONHW4xL2KRYxrGbr3prMSj6UFPJ30BNcNOwIiHMZ_g-7zKSVO8pMW4sD1pTYifadx6d8Alo3KrqQ)
So, there you have, a full pictorial guide to swaping out a faulty laser in a TG16/PCE CD Rom. Hope this helps someone out.
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Awesome!
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Awesome work indeed! :clap:
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Great job. I hope I never have to do a laser swap, but this should be helpful to anyone trying to do one.
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I got a new replacement laser in a Turbo lot that I purchased and have no need for it. If anyone could use it, PM me.
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Fantastic guide!
With all of those wonderful pictures, you can't go wrong. Except for the the fingernails. They look a bit rough around the edges. :)
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Thanks guys. I hope it helps someone one day.
Fantastic guide!
With all of those wonderful pictures, you can't go wrong. Except for the the fingernails. They look a bit rough around the edges. :)
Yeah, I have a horrible habit of biting my nails. I really need to work on that. :)
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That's really helpful stuff. I'm gonna try redoing mine since I was a little less than successful. Luckily I didn't break anything.
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Well Done! A truly labor intensive effort! :clap: You should email PCEngineFX to sticky this topic!
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I would like to echo the sentiments above and sing your praises from the mountaintops.
And just to be more TurboGrafxy, I refer to the mountaintops in the background of Stage 1 of China Warrior.
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Oh, and must agree, this topic should be a sticky.
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I emailed Aaron yesterday; hopefully he agrees!
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Thanks again guys, you're too kind :) I was going to send him a PM to see what he thought, but seems like blueraven already has.
And just to be more TurboGrafxy, I refer to the mountaintops in the background of Stage 1 of China Warrior.
Awesome.
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Bump; as many people have been asking about a laser swap guide.
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:)
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this is great info for when the time comes!!! I hope to find someone to fix it instead when it breaks
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Does the new spindle hold the disc firmly like a Ps1 spindle?
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Does the new spindle hold the disc firmly like a Ps1 spindle?
The new one? Yeah, the cd 'clicks' into place. It doesn't sit like on the original, thats why you can pull off the part on the cd door. That and it probably wont close right if you left it on.
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Thanks for making it a sticky!
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awesome. :mrgreen:
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Can this guide partially be used to replace the laser on a Super CD-ROM2 unit? I need to replace mine.
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Can this guide partially be used to replace the laser on a Super CD-ROM2 unit? I need to replace mine.
I imagine the process would be similar. I never had the need to rip mine open. I am not sure what replacement laser you would need.
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I'm pretty sure the American unit takes a KSS220A as well, can anyone confirm this?
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I'm pretty sure the American unit takes a KSS220A as well, can anyone confirm this?
Yeah, I have done this with my black CDROM2 and it is practically the same drive.
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Just a thought...
Does anyone know enough about these laser assemblies to deduce whether it's practical (or even possible) to replace just the laser diode, while using the original housing? I have a hard time finding the KSS-220A, but I would think the actual dioide would be more common.
Speaking of which, my TG-CD is working fine, but I am interested in upgrading the spindle to the "click" variety, as described in BlackandBlue's aweXome guide...but I can't find the "complete" assembly anywhere! Does anyone have an alternate part number?
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Speaking of which, my TG-CD is working fine, but I am interested in upgrading the spindle to the "click" variety, as described in BlackandBlue's aweXome guide...but I can't find the "complete" assembly anywhere! Does anyone have an alternate part number?
I think the shaft size is 5/64", which I believe is standard for CS spindle motors. I suppose you can pull it out of any old cd player you have laying around.
When I get home I can see if the spare motors I have have part numbers on them to confirm. I dont know the technical name for the clicky cs seat, so its hard to try to find it.
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was working on the turbo cd and thought should add my notes on here:
have a turbo cd with working laser and assembly but bad mother board. Would power on but game would not spin. Checked everything possible even changed the pot settings. After changing all the caps all the 4.7 uf caps were dead,like 5 of them bunched up near the pot settings. 5 is enough to cause laser failure. There are 2 more 4.7uf caps that are really tiny back to back on the board but they were functional so i put them back. I have a capacitance meter to check the caps as i remove them.
Powered on the unit with no change. Another member on here Bluebmw had a similar problem with his turbo cd. Changed the laser,adjusted pots etc but would not spin the game only a quarter turn. He also changed the caps i mentioned and no change. Changed more caps and had a laser trouble where the ribbon got torn on the lens side,the smaller ribbon. Sent unit to me where i tried a working laser and it worked.
I messed more with the laser with torn ribbon and did a transfer of lens from a old laser with a dead diode:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/jetbue7/turbocdparts.jpg)
and it worked. 90% of the time the diode burns out like a lightbulb. The lens may last longer before the wires start popping on it or the lens gets scratched.
Used a very tiny screwdriver 2 mm flathead to unscrew these tiny security torx bits that were in there. If you attempt this do your best not to undo the bed of glue that holds the lens part. Its needed to balance it out. So small i cant take a pic but you can see it on the laser holding the 2 parts together after you remove the screws. Hopes this is useful info to some :wink:
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any ideas on putting in a new spindle for a Duo? I would love to have the "click in" spindle to hold the discs.
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Nice repair job, but a few notes:
1. The replacement laser you used If using a 162 replacement laser, note that it has a much shorter flex cable (on both sides). It makes it very hard to re-connect into the PCB because you have much less room for your fingers.
2. The routing of the original flex wires includes glue in strategic locations. This is needed to keep the flex cable from jamming as the head moves around. When doing the laser swap, make note of where to glue -- and of course have some glue handy!
3. Most important -- the original laser required you to remove the clip holding the flex cable; this clip worked nicely because the original laser has the required hole in the middle of the flex cable, allowing the clip to do its job. The replacement 162 laser does not have the hole, so you can't use the clip, so again the flex cable jams up.
I would give strong consideration to sticking with the original laser type 220(A).
Charlie
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Nice repair job, but a few notes:
1. The replacement laser you used has a much shorter flex cable (on both sides). It makes it very hard to re-connect into the PCB because you have much less room for your fingers.
2. The routing of the original flex wires includes glue in strategic locations. This is needed to keep the flex cable from jamming as the head moves around. When doing the laser swap, make note of where to glue -- and of course have some glue handy!
3. Most important -- the original laser required you to remove the clip holding the flex cable; this clip worked nicely because the original laser has the required hole in the middle of the flex cable, allowing the clip to do its job. The replacement laser does not have the hole, so you can't use the clip, so again the flex cable jams up.
I would give strong consideration to sticking with the original laser type 220(A).
Charlie
Are you referring to the KSS-162a? I used the 220a in my swap and in the pictures and all the cables were the same length and had the hole. I cannot speak for the 162a as I read it is compatible, but have not swapped one myself.
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Yes, I was comparing the 220 vs the 162. I have done the 162 and it has the short-commings I have mentioned.
Didn't want anyone to find this out after they spent the $$ on the 162.
My apologies, I realize the wording could be better. Allow me to edit... (done)
Thanks
Charlie
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Seems to me we now need a "total capacitor replacement chart" for the CD ROM. Probably a good idea to make it a new sticky, too.
(I could do it, but where do you get those really nice colored dots to stick on all the caps?)
Charlie
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Red Ghost did a TGCD cap chart a while ago... had to dig a bit to find it!
https://www.pcenginefx.com/forums/index.php?topic=7012.0
Also, I made a little mini guide on some of the ICs on the TGCD board, might not be too useful but... :D
https://www.pcenginefx.com/forums/index.php?topic=8782.0
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AHA! I was somewhat sure that I had seen the cap list before, but I couldn't find it. However, definitely did NOT know of the IC stuff -------I am still not straight on "CD ROM" vs "CD ROM2" (or, in fact, most of the TG line's matrix of names has me confused ------you don't know how long it took me to relate "DUO" with "PC"!!)
Hmmm, any other info needed there?
Thanks.
Charlie
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As an FYI, I've been looking into the IC's recently, and I've found a minor correction or two.
Under the "Turbo Grafx CDROM IC Identification Guide" section, at the top:
1. the 'D9309 is listed as unknown -- it's the SCSI interface IC
2. the CDX1135 is listed as possibly a DAC -- it's the DSP IC
Just thought you'd like to know...
Charlie
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Awesome charlie! Thanks! I'll update the image soon :P Have you heard of some of the new turbo duo sound fixes we've discovered lately?
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>> Have you heard of ...<<
I don't think so, but I don't know what specific fix you mean.
There is a lot of DUO audio repair info here, particularly the block diagrams (= abbreviated schematics), that should allow anyone with reasonable soldering ability to fix DUO's. Is there something new?
Charlie
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We've had a few units which even after full cap replacements still have no sound. We tracked it down to a single transistor not supplying voltage to all the audio amps. Q304 to be exact. It should be outputting ~8V on the emitter leg. Other units the connection from E of Q304 is degraded on the connection through the board also causing low voltage to the audio amps.
Maybe you already knew this stuff but it was a recent discovery for some of us! :P
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Ok, let me check my notes. Based on what you say, Q304 may be in the power supply. I'll dig into my data and post some info.
Charlie
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FYI:
1. Got TWO CD Rom's repaired, with parts on order for the second two. Yay. EBay here I come!
2. Haven't forgotten the Q304 thingy, just been sick recently. Data coming soon.
Thanks
Charlie
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I put the Q304 stuff in the "REPAIR GUIDE - TurboDuo: Sound Fix" thread..it's more appropriate there.
Charlie
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Update note:
The UPD9309, which I mentioned is the SCSI Interface IC, is officially described as a "CD ROM drive controller"; the description says nothing about its interface capabilities. (I missed that extra line of text in my notes). However, it's probably ok to call it "CD ROM drive controller with SCSI interface", even that's not officially correct. Or maybe just make a reference to the SCSI port in a comment.
Charlie
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Anyone ever have a CD drive that doesn't read the disc correctly even after changing out the lens? The CD spins up with the new lens but doesn't start playing anything. Just spins at a normal speed like it is going to but doesn't.
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one of the ones chop sent me to fix did that.
i just resoldered the larger parts on the board and the pots and it fixed it
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one of the ones chop sent me to fix did that.
i just resoldered the larger parts on the board and the pots and it fixed it
thesteve, can you elaborate? I just did a laser swap on my tgcd and it would load at first and then it would just spin with a blank screen. Even with an audio cd, it has long load between tracks. Thanks.
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yours may be getting stuck, or need the pots adjusted.
the one i was referring to the adjustments wouldnt stay
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Do you think I can just adjust the pots or should I perform caps replacement first?
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caps first
adjustment may not be needed
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caps first
adjustment may not be needed
I replaced all the caps except for the bipolar ones since I didn't have any. Now the cd just spin with no video and sound. I double checked everything and didnt see a cap with reversed polarity or anything. So now I'm gonna try adjusting the pots. Any idea on what the values should be? I know i've seen a chart for pots readings for the duo but not the TGCD.
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they should be about the same, but will vary from one to another
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With this guide and the help from thesteve, I was able to get my tgcd working flawlessly now. Thanks!!
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Thank you for this guide. It was a practical assistance for my laser pickup replacement.
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(http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa150/boostedk20a/Laser guide/extra_02.jpg)
BlackandBlue, if I wanted to replace only the spindle will any spindle do? Sony Discman's are selling for a whopping $3.99 at my local neighbourhood services.
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BlackandBlue, if I wanted to replace only the spindle will any spindle do? Sony Discman's are selling for a whopping $3.99 at my local neighbourhood services.
For $4, I would give it a shot. I can't promise it will fit, but I also don't see them making too many different size shafts on CD drive motors. Worse case, you could most likely switch the spindle motor out as well from the donor, as long as it fits and the specifications are the same (voltage/rpm).
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Ive swapped spindle posts before with the self locking type. They work fine but you have to remove the lid clamp mechanism.
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the motor shaft is standard on most spindle motors
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Thanks guys! I'm definitely picking one of these up. I use to work at RadioShack back in '99 and we sold these things for $149-$249. It's hard to believe they are worth a massive $4 nowadays. It'd cost you $8 just to put batteries in it.
So is it this picture I need to follow to replace the spindle?
(http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa150/boostedk20a/Laser guide/pic_17.jpg)
Do I need to mark the spindle for alignment purposes or is it much easier than what I'm making it out to be?
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if it just the spindle, not the motor, it pulls off.
as for alignment the hight is the only concern.
(cant dee the pic from here)
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Sorry, but what do you mean "it pulls off". That doesn't sound good.
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its a press fit on the motor.
just open the lid, place 2 screwdrivers under it and pry it up evenly.
try to keep your pressure near the center
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its a press fit on the motor.
just open the lid, place 2 screwdrivers under it and pry it up evenly.
try to keep your pressure near the center
Get the hell out of here. Serious? There are no screws holding it in place? So I take it the replacement will most likely be press fit too? My mind is slightly blown here.
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Yep its like steve says. They pull off and press on. Just be careful to keep your prying force even so you dont bent the spindle.
If you need pics or video of how to do it, let me know.
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Alright, I'll give it a try. Maybe I'll buy two of those $4 CD players from neighbourhood services...just in case. :)
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Who still sells either of the lasers for the Turbo CD's these days? Looks like Electronix won't ever stock these again.
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we found a replacement
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anyone have a spare "snap-in" cd spindle that would work for either my PC Engine CD-rom unit or a Duo unit?
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i have a tg16 cd rom system that is in need of repair and im looking for someone to help , my good friend nightwolve pointed me out this way.
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welcome
chop5, me, bluebmw, keithcourage, likely a few others can fix it for ya.
chop and keith sell DIY gear kits
bmw has new lasers
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let me go over fund or swap msn addys and well get to business around end of month would love to have this unit fixed
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Hello,
There is a place to find KSS-220a laser ? I have two CD-ROM unit with dead laser and no solution to find replacement. Any tips ?
Thanks
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we have a different laser that works KSS225A
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we have a different laser that works KSS225A
Do you happen to know if anyone has tried the KSS-320B? It certainly looks like it would be a drop in replacement, although the pics I have seen show the thinner cable as being shorter.
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Just did an overhaul on my Tg16 cd player .. Everything went perfectly .. Gears cleaned and re greased !!! This baby is playing way smooth now, no more skipping what so ever !!! Gonna try to get my hands on an extra KS220A laser to save for a future laser swap, once this laser finally dies ..Thank you so much BlackandBlue for posting up this pictorial laser swap guide :clap: !!! It was super easy to follow and the pics just made it that much easier to accomplish !!!
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Ive got spare replacement lasers if you need one.
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sorry wrong thread
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First off, thanks to all who have contributed to this site and this thread. Without this info I would be nowhere.
I'm trying to get my TG 16 CD spinning again. Swapped the old gear with a Keith Courage replacement and also the original laser with a new KSS-225A.
Now it plays CDs (YES!), but only if the drive is tilted or upside down. I can hear the disc rubbing against the floor of the drive when its right side up. When I raise the spindle the drive skips more. I've tried carefully adjusting the pots but the factory settings seem yield the best results (the least amount of skipping).
How do you guys know the height the spindle should be?
I've tried replacing the original spindle with newer clip type but the motor shaft seems too short and I can't raise the spindle high enough to not drag the disc. Maybe I need a different motor?
thanks for your help...
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OK, I fiddled around a little more tonight and discovered that it will play my audio discs almost perfectly now if I jam a little piece of paper here as shown:
(http://retrobits.net/misc/tg16/tg-2.jpg)
I'm thinking now that its not the spindle at all, rather something is bent or not assembled correctly. I'd like to figure out the root cause. Maybe tomorrow I'll take everything apart again and rebuild. I am so close... just this mechanical problem.
There is a disturbance in the force!
(http://retrobits.net/misc/tg16/tg-1.jpg)
EDIT: just to finish my story, I took everything apart and carefully re-assembled. Nothing is bent that I can detect. I put the paper back in. Then I adjusted the pots for a while. The last 2 pots on the far right (when looking straight into the headphone jack) made the most difference. Approx 1/8th turn counter-clockwise on both. Now the unit reads CDs and CDRs without skipping, even while tapping on the side. I'm thinking now the paper shim is not that bad of a solution. I just colored it black! +1 for the dark side.
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when you put the screws holding the springs in there are plastic washers used to adjust the position (height) of the mech
you just need to move/install washer
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Thanks for pointing out the real solution. My unit did have a single washer installed on one of the spring posts, which I was a little confused about. I'll pick up some replacements and do some experimenting.
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There is only one washer installed by default on the post closest to the center of the drive. The other posts do not have washers from the factory.
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Yes, the center post is where the washer is currently installed.
I did find some replacement fiber washers at Home Depot and am getting ready to get into it again.
Also, I took apart a dead Gamecube and found what appears to be the perfect spindle. The hole for the motor shaft extends out from the bottom of the spindle a little so it will press-fit fully onto the shaft. The other spindles I've tried were just barely mounted on the end of the motor shaft and seemed quite fragile. If the fiber washers don't work out I will try this.
While its open I thought I should apply some lube. I really don't want to use automotive grease (in any case, I don't have any). So I also picked up some "Super Lube" silicon grease (Quote from product description: Super Lube Silicone Lubricating Grease with Syncolon® (PTFE) has a wider operating range than petroleum based lubricants; Excellent water protection and moisture barrier. Use on Plastic gears, plastic threads, as a damping medium for Dash Pots, lubricate O-Rings, electrical motor bearings and rubber components. Silicone Lubricating Grease withstands temperatures from -40°F to 500°F.) It looks pretty good for this application. Anyone here ever use a similar grease on TGCD?
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Will kss-320 fit ??? looks the same.
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i put the replacement gear KC sent me in my turbo cd, but also could not get the tiny screw on the metal plate to remove like some others ive seen have had issue with, so used straight snips to cut it off as flat as i could. reassembled unit, get plenty of RRRRRRRRRR noise, smacked it one time which made the laser meet its end point which actually got it to spin the cd, but no music still. have also opened the unit while it was chirping away to itself and didnt see the laser moving. any ideas? should i just send this to someone and have them fix it? honestly the process was very annoying to me, this was my first time messing with a cd drive. im used to working on arcade machines and replacing caps and what not, but this was a bit too small for my giant shaky hands.
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if you reversed the motor wires (as instructed) the sled is binding or gears not meshing.
roll the motor gear by hand to move the laser sled and the issue should become quite apparent
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Max 330 Mega
Sounds to me like you might need to turn your motor upside down. Don't know how or why but in very few instances that new gear doesn't match up perfectly and I think it's either because the lens motor itself is not perfectly straight or the plastic it mounts to isn't. Anyways, I find that turning the motor upside down usually fixes this issue. If not then a shim can be used but I hardly doubt you would need that. I mentioned this briefly in my gear change tutorial.
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I can get a new version cd lens for work on PC-Engine CD Rom2 consoles , but need to change the connect cable .. I have changed one on my CD Rom2 already .. very very fast load game
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Hi everyone,
Does anybody still have an extra KSS-220A or KSS-225A laser you can sell me or know a U.S. web site I can get one at? Those lasers are pretty hard to find. Seems like they are only available in Europe or Canada these days. I wouldn't mind having one, since my Turbo CD Unit has been loading kinda slow on some games. Thanks!
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EDIT: Sorry, double post + wrong thread ](*,)
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I keep scouring thrift stores when I get the chance trying to harvest KSS' and HOP-M3s. :twisted:
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I recently rolled the dice on an as-is a US tg-16 with cdrom, it powers on, PC, all LEDs work, runs the hue card, detects lid opening , and the gear seems to operate smoothly, but no disc spin, it appears to be a KS220A from what i can tell, i was totally surprised it even powers on , being manufactured in january 1990 , when i was just 5 years old :) , so i still think i got a good deal considering the base system still plays hucards fine including the carry case and r-type..
I found a classified add on ebay offering repair including Replacement of lens gears, capacitors, lens motor replacement, broken wiring or connections, and potentiometer adjustment. - $55 USD An extra $25 will be added if you need a replacement CD lens.
for $80 + you pay shipping there and back... , compared to what other people would pay or offer do you think this is a fair price(with ebay fees of course) + you handling shipping to and from?
Wouldn't you replace the lens and motor would all be one unit ? ..
~ let me know what you guys think.. or if there's any counter offers, id be interested to hear from the experts if this is fair.
+ctophil , did you find any US seller ? i can try this out service out and see what happens..
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a few things
odds are that ebay repair service is keith courage on here (without the ebay fees)
the drive has 2 motors and the laser unit all separate.
cd drive start order needs to be checked
open lid
no disc
use something to hold the lid switch (tooth pick)
press play
laser sled should move to center then the lens should bob
laser should be visible on lens
if the sled doesnt move its most likely the gear stuck/broken (motor failure second possible)
the system will stop and wait for each step to occur before moving on to the next
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thanks steve, always helpful, yea i get nothing , no sled move , no laser light , no movement..
that is great news to hear its a community member, im a lil more confident now..
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+ctophil , did you find any US seller ? i can try this out service out and see what happens..
I didn't find a U.S. seller, but I was able to salvage a laser from a good condition Sony Discman for my Turbografx-CD Unit. It's working great now.
I had a separate thread about my laser repair adventures here if you want to read it.
:-) https://www.pcenginefx.com/forums/index.php?topic=17740.0
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<snip> moved to separate thread
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I'm having trouble with my CD-ROM2 drive. I managed to make the change with the gears (before there were 3 gears and now has only two gears) but when I connect the drive, the laser down and does not return. And so the CD does not rotate, can anyone help me? Please :cry:
Note: Forgive me, my English is horrible.
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My US Duo now has issues reading burned discs. A few months ago I could use general newer crappy CD-Rs but they had minor issues - the disc read/head moving seemed louder than with a 'real' disc, and the background music wouldnt repeat. After not much time, it just wouldnt load those at all any more (black screen).
It was suggested that I try better discs, so I bought "CMC Pro TY Technology" and the first two I burned worked great at first. I got several stages in to Rondo of Blood for example. However, when went to quit/save game I just got a black screen. Attempts to load that burned disc didnt work after that at all.
I placed an order for a HOP-M3 from some random ebay seller, which I presume is some chinese knockoff. Anyone have success stories with those reading burned discs vs the original pickups? Are they better/worse or just a crapshoot?
Curious if I should even bother attempting to adjust POTS on the current original system OR just swap in the new laser when it arrives.
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Hi! Just noticed... are the photos hosted on photobucket? Does this mean to be able to view the photos, we need to pay USD$10 with photobucket?
Just wanted to make sure my browser wasn't screwing up.
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Hi! Just noticed... are the photos hosted on photobucket? Does this mean to be able to view the photos, we need to pay USD$10 with photobucket?
Just wanted to make sure my browser wasn't screwing up.
I'll see if I can move them somewhere else. Didn't realize they limited their usage.
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I moved the photos from photobucket to google photos. If they don't work, let me know. If they go down in the future, that means Google has gone under and it will be too late for us all at that point.