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NEC TG-16/TE/TurboDuo => TG/PCE Repair/Mod Discussion => Topic started by: TH0R on September 20, 2009, 08:09:21 AM
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the game just does't work, i've cleaned it and still just get white screen. can hucards be opened and fixed?
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You can't really "open up" a HuCard. The black part with the contacts is the actual game itself, and peeling that off would only make things worse.
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the game just does't work, i've cleaned it and still just get white screen. can hucards be opened and fixed?
This might indicate that the contacts on HuCard/inside the console simply need a little more love :)
I'm sure you've tried, but in case you haven't:
Try inserting the HuCard to slightly different depths/angles. Yes, yes, I know there isn't much wiggle room when you slide the switch over, but, trust me, there is wiggle room.
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Indeed, it is strange, but some game carts need to go into the cart slot a little more than others to register.
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And some HuCards just plain go bad. Tiger had a Bonk's Adventure or something like that that didn't work right, and I had a Ghouls 'n Ghosts SuperGrafx cart in similar condition. Although it seems to be a rare phenomenon, when it happens there isn't anything you can really do except buy another copy of the game.
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I have a final lap twin like that... no amount of contact cleaning, etc, would resurrect it...
static shock or something got it.
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And some HuCards just plain go bad. Tiger had a Bonk's Adventure or something like that that didn't work right, and I had a Ghouls 'n Ghosts SuperGrafx cart in similar condition. Although it seems to be a rare phenomenon, when it happens there isn't anything you can really do except buy another copy of the game.
Like nat says, sometimes cards dies. It happened to ceti or someone's moto roader which worked prior to inserting it in their system one day, then never again. Static electricity is the likeliest culprit as it doesn't take much at all to kill electronics.
Sparky sent me a half dead bonk's adventure to experiment with. The sprites are mostly fine, but everything else is varying levels of consistent garbage. Otherwise it plays like normal, but it's nearly impossible to play due to the gfx corruption.
For those who are curious, here is a pic of a hucard with the black piece removed: http://nintendoallstars.w.interia.pl/romlab/pcecrt.htm
All I can say is be glad it wasn't an expensive game that died, thought it is rare, it does happen.
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HERE LIES THOR'S P-47 HuCARD
R.I.P. TENDER LITTLE ONE
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thanks guys, i want to try replacing that lil diode on the inside of the card , i'm not sure what it is though. mainly for fun since it probably wont work anyway. has anyone played this game, is it even any good?
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thanks guys, i want to try replacing that lil diode on the inside of the card , i'm not sure what it is though. mainly for fun since it probably wont work anyway. has anyone played this game, is it even any good?
I am a shoot-em-up connoisseur, if I may be so humble, and I found P-47 to be bland/mediocre.
Of course, I still played it... and it certainly isn't the worst game...
But I liked Hawk F-123 better... or are they the same game?
Regardless, I still like Hawk F-123 better, if only for the tunes.
Hawk F-123 has some nice challenging bits after a few stages.
FINAL VERDICT: If you are a shooter fan, then yes, of course you should check out P-47. But no, it isn't anything to get excited about, and I get excited about Tiger Heli (NES). If you kinda dig P-47, then I recommend you try Hawk F-123, since it somehow manages to have charm and challenge despite some real flaws.
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I've had some experience with Famicom carts that didn't work at all, but then using some Arix Remedio/Magic Eraser, or even some very fine steel scrubbers (be very careful) fully restored the cart to working condition.
The idea here is that both abrasives very carefully remove a very thin layer of the contact, leaving a new brushed metal sheen to it.
I'm just curious if doing so could help a HuCard "back to health"...
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Did you try putting some a small strip of tape underneath where the pins are? (plastic side) I had to do this for a game to work that would only display white before. I think the plastic portion of the hu had warped so the pins would not make a connection.
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Did you try putting a small strip of tape underneath where the pins are? (plastic side)...
You mean to make a tighter fit? Will this work?
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It did for me. Happened to me on a power sports hu card and it wasn't that the contacts were dirty.
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hmmm....
So a tighter fit, makes it all better...
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I finally got my first bad hucard the other day as well... A Jackie Chan.
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Is there a way to fix these guys? I've been scouring the net for a way to fix these...
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I'm still very skeptical as to how many of the proclaimed "bad HuCards" are actually bad.
Usually sticking a piece of tape, cardboard, credit card, whatever, underneath the pin area when you insert the game will cause proper contact to be made and cure a lot of this sort of stuff.
Cleaning, sanding, etc, seems to take care of the rest of it.
In certain hardball cases where you just can't get the game to work, taking it and trying it on another console reveals the game actually works flawlessly.
I'm of the belief that as these consoles get older and the cart slots see more and more use, the internal pins get bent out of position, they corrode, get dirty, etc and cause issues with certain games.
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I have a Bonk 3 that won't work now.. :(
I've cleaned, sanded, erased, magic erased, applied tape, more tape, and it still gives me a white screen...
Is there a way to raise the pins from RIGHT underneath the pins, and if so, can someone share some pics of a good way of doing it? My style doesn't seem to work...
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a little trick on a clean cart.
try it with it damp.
I have found that when i have one like that simply licking contacts and inserting damp, and it runs.
i suspect it eliminiates static buildup on the pins.
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So...what your saying Steve is we should lick it before we stick it?
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I've got a similar problem, a New Zealand Story that simply stops randomly.
It always loads, but I've never been able to pass level 3.
It fails right after the screen where it says the level name and how many lives.
tried cleaning, tape, etc, any ideas?
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yes busted
my galaga wont run in one of my TE's , but it will if i lick it first.
ive tried everything else to no avail.
the card works in other systems.
the system works with other cards.
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I have a Bonk 3 that won't work now.. :(
I've cleaned, sanded, erased, magic erased, applied tape, more tape, and it still gives me a white screen...
Is there a way to raise the pins from RIGHT underneath the pins, and if so, can someone share some pics of a good way of doing it? My style doesn't seem to work...
Have you tried it in another console?
I've got a similar problem, a New Zealand Story that simply stops randomly.
It always loads, but I've never been able to pass level 3.
It fails right after the screen where it says the level name and how many lives.
tried cleaning, tape, etc, any ideas?
Have you tried it in another console?
yes busted
my galaga wont run in one of my TE's , but it will if i lick it first.
ive tried everything else to no avail.
the card works in other systems.
the system works with other cards.
Exactly.
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I have not, but I don't have one to try it in, my only other system is a US one that's unmodded...
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I definitely wouldn't recommend licking the thing. You're just going to speed up corrosion on the hucard socket.
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Hmmm... But what does it mean if the card works on some systems, just not one of them?
Is that a sign of the contacts on the inside? Can we open up the TG-16 and bend them out, kind of like what people do with Famicom/NES ports with a small screwdriver and gently raise them up?
Because, if the system works with other cards, why would raising the pins help with this card? Please explain. ;)
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I appreciate P-47 since I already liked it in the arcades and on my c64 (on which I also 1lc'd it). The PCE port is quiet nicely made, but yeah turning out quite medicore compared to the upperclass shewties on this system.
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Does anyone here repair hucards?
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the issue is not (in my case) related to the slot.
i suspect its a termination issue in my system and sloppy output on the card
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Hmmm... But what does it mean if the card works on some systems, just not one of them?
Is that a sign of the contacts on the inside?
Yes, or some other issue with the console itself (see steve's explanation above).
Can we open up the TG-16 and bend them out, kind of like what people do with Famicom/NES ports with a small screwdriver and gently raise them up?
Because, if the system works with other cards, why would raising the pins help with this card? Please explain. ;)
Because not all HuCards are created equal. Your "problem cards" may just have contacts that are either slightly lower or slightly "off center" enough compared to other cards to not make contact with the used and abused pins in the cartridge slot on your console. This could be due to the way they rolled off the assembly line, or it could be due to corrosion, dirt, etc. Or it could be due to some other issue with your console, such as termination in steve's case.
I have three copies of Tales of the Monsterpath that don't work on my Duo, but work fine on my handheld GT. I kept buying them because I thought I was getting bunk carts. The problem is not that the carts are "broken" in some way, the problem is that particular game was apparently manufactured in such a way that puts the pins in a position that makes contact difficult in all but the cleanest, least-abused slots.
Does anyone here repair hucards?
Apparently nothing I've been trying to say is getting through. Chances are highly likely there is nothing to "repair."
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^hahahaha! Sorry, sorry, nat. :) Separation pains, I guess, when there's a death "in the family".
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When I was a kid I let a friend borrow my ninja spirit and I got it back from them broken. Most likely due to static electricity since they used to always throw all their games around on their carpeted floor. Last time I lent them any games. I have a new one now :)