PCEngineFans.com - The PC Engine and TurboGrafx-16 Community Forum
NEC PC-Engine/SuperGrafx => PC Engine/SuperGrafx Discussion => Topic started by: stockspyder on September 03, 2010, 09:17:37 AM
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I checked that it was legitimate both before it was sent and after it arrived. It even came with a spine card. Honestly I'm nervous about going through the booklet or handling the disc. And I'm a bit worried about sunfade in the future. Can anyone here tell me how they take care or their rare games and store and/or display them.
Also can anyone tell me any history on this game? As far as I know its just an extremely popular late release that had a low production volume.
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Can anyone here tell me how they take care or their rare games and store and/or display them.
Rarity is irrelevant; you should keep all of your games in good shape. Put 'em on a bookcase in a cool, dry place, out of direct sunlight (and other UV light sources). And whatever you do, don't confuse 'em with skeet.
Also can anyone tell me any history on this game? As far as I know its just an extremely popular late release that had a low production volume.
You've pretty much nailed it. Damn fine shmup + small print run = high demand and high prices.
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I recall hearing it was only released at a trade show or some such thing. But didn't it actually have a retail release?
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Yeah, regular release. A lot of shops weren't interested in carrying PCE by that point though, so the few shops that got it were all sold out day one.
BTW, I would suggest not buying games if you are afraid to touch them. I guess you should get a CD-R and play that to preserve your nerves.
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I have Sapphire on CDR and it works great. I wouldn't mind having the bootleg, but even that sells for way too much.
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I'm all about authentic because I don't want cd-r's messing up my laser. I can fix things but don't like to have to my duo-rx came with a new laser, so I'm keeping it good. I also like how it looks through rgb. is it just me or do all the games have to be adjusted for rgb? I use an xrgb 2+
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What does RGB have to do with CD-Rs?
Also, the whole "CD-Rs kill lasers" hypothesis is highly dubious. At best, they may finish off a laser that was %99 dead.
Instant hard core kids think they know everything...
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IT KILLS! IT'S PROVEN!
anyway, sapphire is one of those rare must own rarity exception, since it also gives you something for your money. in very contrary to all that other overpriced crap outthere.
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I agree. Its the best blue chip game I can think of.
I'm interested in this "proof" because...I haven't seen it. We've certainly had people here who's Duo's last breath was breathed while playing a CD-R, but how many hours were already on that Duo? All lasers eventually die. If you play nothing but CD-Rs (many kids do now) then logically your Duo will die with a CD-R in it. Also, how many of those people only actually had the issue where the sled parks at at the edge of travel (easily fixed in 2 seconds)?
I don't play very many CD-Rs but I did go through quite a few last year. I probably put 40-50 hours in on CD-Rs, on a briefcase even, and it's still running right now. I played a lot of Blood Gear and Startling Odyssey 2 (eng patch). If it does any harm at all, it certainly isn't very quick about it.
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I think it comes to down to what kind of CD-Rs you use. I tend to stay away from CD-RWs and those "fun" CD-Rs that come in different colors, since I've heard the laser works harder on those discs. I've got quite a few games on CD-Rs, and both my old Duo and TG-CD were perfectly fine.
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I'm trying to figure out how a laser can work "harder". I admit fully to not knowing very much about this stuff, but as I see it, if the laser is tracking, its tracking. If it mis -tracked and had to refocus/recover over and over again, I could see that being a problem, but if your redbook audio isn't skipping then obviously that isn't happening. Its not like the laser has the ability to triple its wattage and melt itself or anything.
Again, I'm not denying that its a possibility, its just that I like to see proof of things, or at least a qualified expert opinion (ie: an optical engineer, or someone like that) before I buy into them. With hardware this old (ie: the oldest consumer CDROM drives in existence) they are going to be failing eventually. It would be a shame to blame CD-Rs when they aren't the problem.
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The laser shines a light and looks for a reflection. That's it. The intensity of the laser is set with a potentiometer. If it doesn't see a valid reflection, the game will not play. Now if the laser starts moving physically more in an effort to read a disc that it can hardly see, then something may wear out sooner. But I haven't heard any struggles with the CD-Rs I've used and I'm pretty sure I would hear it because that Turbo CD is LOUD to begin with. I just wish I could play CD-Rs in RGB. :)
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Actually 2 seperate ideas. I was just wondering if anyone here has an rgb modded system hooked up to any kind of xrgb. I wonder if the settings for color vary from game to game. I've only been playing dracula x. But on sapphire the settings look a bit too light.
What does RGB have to do with CD-Rs?
Also, the whole "CD-Rs kill lasers" hypothesis is highly dubious. At best, they may finish off a laser that was %99 dead.
Instant hard core kids think they know everything...
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Dracula X is a very dark game. Sapphire is a much brighter one. That's about it.
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I agree. Its the best blue chip game I can think of.
Forgive me, but what do you mean by "blue chip" game? :oops:
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From Wikipedia: "A blue chip stock is the stock of a well-established company having stable earnings and no extensive liabilities. Blue chip stocks pay regular dividends, even when business is faring worse than usual. The term is derived from casinos, where blue chips represent the greatest value among the many colors of chips."
Sapphire is hella expensive and always will be, therefore it is blue chip. Dynastic Hero US is also "blue chip", but Sapphire is a better game. Sapphire is the best blue chip game, IMO. Everything more valuable is less fun.
Possible exception: Bazaru de Gozaru.