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NEC TG-16/TE/TurboDuo => TG-16/TE/TurboDuo Sales & Trades => Topic started by: electrochip on December 13, 2010, 12:23:37 PM
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$17 shipped for one and $15 each additional, includes 4551 chips pre-soldered. PCB's without the 4551's are $12 shipped for one and $10 each additional. If you want them quicker add $4 for priority mail. These chips are for region modding TG16/PCE/Duo's. I had to change the pinout at the bottom so it would incorporate both SMD and DIP MC14551 versions. The H-A were not supposed to be there so on install they should be ignored and it goes like this
From Left to Right Pin:
15 PCB
15 Hu Connector
16 PCB
16 Hu Connector
23 PCB
23 Hu Connector
22 PCB
22 Hu Connector
17 PCB
17 Hu Connector
19 PCB
19 Hu Connector
21 PCB
21 Hu Connector
20 PCB
20 Hu Connector
(http://i948.photobucket.com/albums/ad321/electrochip/PCE/region_mod.jpg)
Also when installing instead of using a 5V source, I have found that using the IN pin on the Voltage regulator is FAR more stable and you won't have issues where some games will crash after a few minutes of play.
(http://i948.photobucket.com/albums/ad321/electrochip/PCE/pce_mod_voltage.jpg)
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Those look so much purtier than my homemade breadboard chips :P Is the $17 just for the PCB? Not the 4551 chips too?
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includes the 4551 chips as well
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So you supply the switching portion of the chips with 12V instead of 5V? Maybe that's the reason why these IC mods dont seem to work on the US TG16.... hmmmmmm
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yup 12V, the chips can handle 18v if needed. I had that issue with my TG16 not swapping modes and it was making me crazy. I looked over the datasheets noticed they can handle higher voltage and blammo! it works fantastic now. I used this method with the Duo-RX as well because it was NOT stable on the 5V with the component video mod in place. Now I just use the IN pin instead of the 5V and not worry about any issues. I've left my machines running for 8+ hours test as well.
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I'll snag one
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yup 12V, the chips can handle 18v if needed. I had that issue with my TG16 not swapping modes and it was making me crazy. I looked over the datasheets noticed they can handle higher voltage and blammo! it works fantastic now. I used this method with the Duo-RX as well because it was stable on the 5V with the component video mod in place. Now I just use the IN pin instead of the 5V and not worry about any issues. I've left my machines running for 8+ hours test as well.
Golden information to know! I spent FOREVER trying to figure out why an IC mod didn't work on a US TG16... I sourced 5V from a bazillion places, I never thought to hook to the 12v...
Might need to order a few of your chips. I'm down to just 2 4551 chips left!
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I don't remember what voltage I actually saw where I picked up power for my chip, but looking at photos I took at the time it looks like its downstream of one of those same regulators so...probably 5V.
(http://grab.by/7T1Z)
Despite some criticism here of the size wire I used this mod has been going strong with zero problems since Feb 2008.
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I don't remember what voltage I actually saw where I picked up power for my chip, but looking at photos I took at the time it looks like its downstream of one of those same regulators so...probably 5V.
Despite some criticism here of the size wire I used this mod has been going strong with zero problems since Feb 2008.
That is a 5V point. If your not doing a component mod, 5V from a Duo-R and Duo-RX (don't have a regular Duo but should be the same) is enough to power the region chips and an S-Video mod as well without issues. TG16 for sure needs higher voltage though.
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Zeta,
What are those shrouds around the wires connected to the Hu slot? Is it heat shrink? I'm guessing it was to reduce the possibility of a short... do tell!
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Will these region chips auto detect the hu-card type and there is no need for a switch?
I just purchased a Duo-r that has a region switch and it works great so far.
However not needing to keep track of the switch position would be really cool. :)
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Zeta,
What are those shrouds around the wires connected to the Hu slot? Is it heat shrink? I'm guessing it was to reduce the possibility of a short... do tell!
Yeah, its just heat shrink tubing. Nothing special.
Will these region chips auto detect the hu-card type and there is no need for a switch?
I just purchased a Duo-r that has a region switch and it works great so far.
However not needing to keep track of the switch position would be really cool. :)
So far, to my knowledge, nobody has figured out a way to do that. These chips aren't going to do it. It would be nice.
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So far, to my knowledge, nobody has figured out a way to do that. These chips aren't going to do it. It would be nice.
I see. So your mod has a couple wires from that pcb running to a switch somewhere.
I looked in my duo-r and the mod is different. I don't see any PCB, My switch is a pretty wide switch with all the wires running to it.
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So does this work in such a way that you solder wires to the pins on the Hu slot, then to the chips, and then from the chips to a switch? No reason to desolder the pins on the Hu slot (saw a mod years ago that called for that)?
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U still have to cut the pins (i don't desolder them anymore).
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I see. So your mod has a couple wires from that pcb running to a switch somewhere.
I looked in my duo-r and the mod is different. I don't see any PCB, My switch is a pretty wide switch with all the wires running to it.
Sounds like you have the 8PDT switch mod. :) simpler but bulky. Awesome all the same though.
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It's the same mod that has been floating around for awhile now, just on a PCB. It does not autodetect, you need to wire up a SPDT switch to the top right of the board to toggle between US and JPN mode. You still have to cut the pins on the Hu Connector, much easier than desoldering them.
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You still have to cut the pins on the Hu Connector
^^^ Still the scariest part of the whole mod :P
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^^^ Still the scariest part of the whole mod :P
bah, once you do one it's not bad. Definitely use the right wire gauge, I like 28AWG.
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Yeah it isn't bad, maybe just the first time.
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It just feels so final when you cut those pins... its like there's no returning it to its original state once you've snipped those little connectors. Maybe I'm just a puss :D
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Well it's definitely final since you can't fix the PCB to its original state afterward. But you could manage to "fix" it in the sense that it would operate as it did originally without a mod, just using wires to complete the connection again. I can understand some people don't like the idea of using an adapter having things stick out but I'd rather do that than modify the insides for it. But I guess if you have a Japanese console you'll need to open it up anyway for the region bit to change to US/Overseas so US HuCards don't complain. Too bad you can't get a converter PCB that includes essentially a Game Genie device to patch US games in real time to remove the protection. And then ofcourse you could have cheats.
I'm sure a device like this could be built, not sure how economical it would be though. I would imagine you could get a FPGA or maybe a CPLD to do such patching though I bet the more complex part of the project would be designing your method of programming patches. Either a BIOS ROM like the Game Genie or some kind of PC program with a link cable.
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That's a lot of money and work just to appease the sort of people who wash their hands 150 times a day. It would certainly be more expensive than just owning multiple systems.
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Too bad you can't get a converter PCB that includes essentially a Game Genie device to patch US games in real time to remove the protection. And then ofcourse you could have cheats.
I'm sure a device like this could be built, not sure how economical it would be though. I would imagine you could get a FPGA or maybe a CPLD to do such patching though I bet the more complex part of the project would be designing your method of programming patches. Either a BIOS ROM like the Game Genie or some kind of PC program with a link cable.
Or just get a flash cart and load it with patched roms.
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But I guess if you have a Japanese console you'll need to open it up anyway for the region bit to change to US/Overseas so US HuCards don't complain.
I just pretend everyday that the wire from pin29 to ground came from the factory. It was always there.
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I just pretend everyday that the wire from pin29 to ground came from the factory. It was always there.
It was always there! :wink:
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Got my IC chips the other day :P Looks like they'll fit in an express.... :-k project pending!
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Has anyone modded a TG Express with one of these?
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Has anyone modded a TG Express with one of these?
I don't have TG Express to try. If I get one I'll post it, or if someone wants to have it modded send me a pm.
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I will be Modding a TE once it arrives
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Or just get a flash cart and load it with patched roms.
True, but it would be nice to collect US Hucards and actually play them. A converter is more appealing to me than getting another system since I'd have to get a RGB modded system. I mean I could use composite, but I really wouldn't want to do that.
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Really nice PCB. You wouldn't happen to be selling the PCB by itself? I already have the ICs, just needed to get around to building the circuit.
BTW, thanks for the info about using 12V. That was the only thing holding me back from region modding my TG16.
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PCB's alone are $12 shipped for one.
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Can u ever have other PCB built for say a rgb amp?
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Currently I'm not interested in RGB amps, if that changes I will let you know.
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Here is the chip with the numbering added. Electrochip let me know if this looks right. I just used it to fix a region mod for someone and this helped.
The L stands for low (PCB) and the H is for high (hucard)
(http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/6494/regionmodcopy.jpg)
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Yes the numbering you added is correct.
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While my chips arrived ok... just something I noticed... It looked like the envelope went through hell getting to me. Like maybe it had been run through a letter machine. The 4551 chips on the board were shifted a bit. Even if it causes your price to go up a buck or so, bubble mailers might be a much safer way to send these :P
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It's all I had, my bubble mailers finally came in this week so everything will be packed much better on all future orders. No increase in price.
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It's all I had, my bubble mailers finally came in this week so everything will be packed much better on all future orders. No increase in price.
:clap: :dance:
Might be ordering a few more soon :P
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I'm waiting on some more 4551's should have them by wednesday.
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plenty left if anyone is interested.
-Jose
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I'm burning through the last batch quick! :P Can I have a bulk discount :lol:
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PM sent. Looking forward for these. Thanks.
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PM sent. I would like one :)
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Haven't done the mod yet but these looks fantasic!!!
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They work fantastic! Saves a ton of time over building your own chips.
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They work fantastic! Saves a ton of time over building your own chips.
Just modded my coregrafx, they work fantastic. Save me a lot of time over the 8pdt push button switch I 've used in the pass. I will mod my turbografx and turboexpress next.
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You still around electrochip!? I need more mod chips!! !!! :pray: :pray: :pray: I dont want to go back to making my own ](*,) ](*,) ](*,)
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I'll take one if you still have some!
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He hasn't responded to emails or anything. I've redrawn an IC schematic to have some made.... the cheapest cost per unit is around $2 each (no ICs, just the board) and that's buying 66 of them for something like $116 shipped. I've held off ordering them for two reasons though... one the 4551 ICs seem to be a little troublesome to locate at the moment, and two because thesteve has designed a better single IC design that can also be made switchless if desired. I'm thinking I may draw up that design instead. I'll let everyone know when it happens though!
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He hasn't responded to emails or anything. I've redrawn an IC schematic to have some made.... the cheapest cost per unit is around $2 each (no ICs, just the board) and that's buying 66 of them for something like $116 shipped. I've held off ordering them for two reasons though... one the 4551 ICs seem to be a little troublesome to locate at the moment, and two because thesteve has designed a better single IC design that can also be made switchless if desired. I'm thinking I may draw up that design instead. I'll let everyone know when it happens though!
I'll take 2!
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I'm also looking to pick one up once you get them made :D I've got a Turbo and CoreGrafx, but it'd be nice to consolidate.
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thesteve has designed a better single IC design that can also be made switchless if desired.
woah, switchless? How does that work?
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It involves holding a button like select while powering on. This is nice for the turbo express but maybe not so much on a console. This same design can use a switch also.
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Any word one the boards? I would take 2.
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Havent got them produced yet, I'm still finalizing a design. I'm trying to make one small enough to fit right by the hucard connector on a turbo express. I'll update when I have more info!
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Will the boards work in any tg/pce? If so they would be great for a core grafx so you wouldn't have to drill any holes. I'd be interested in picking one up when there ready.
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It involves holding a button like select while powering on. This is nice for the turbo express but maybe not so much on a console. This same design can use a switch also.
I was thinking that all the way through, glad you figured it out!
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Thesteve came up with the design. Im just working on getting them made :P
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the switchless works well on the express, because i can connect directly to the controller board.
it could be used on the duo based on the cd door switch.
other consoles will need a switch, or button added to control it, but it can be a very small button (single contact momentary)
it can also be controlled with the same switch as the old chip design.