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NEC TG-16/TE/TurboDuo => TG/PCE Repair/Mod Discussion => Topic started by: guitarmas on December 02, 2006, 01:08:50 PM
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I recently aquired a used Turbo-DUO system but I'm having a little bit of trouble with it. For some reason the system is picking up a lot of static in the audio and it's really getting annoying. I've tried connecting a set of headphones to the audio jack to see if that would make a difference and no luck there, the static is still the same. I've even tried taking an old credit card with a t-shirt wrapped around it and dipped in rubbing alcohol and still no luck. Is this systems audio doomed to static?
BTW- T2kfreeker, thanks for the site link bro.
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I would guess that you have one of the replacement AV cables for your Duo. They don't fit as snug as the originals and often cause static if they're not adjusted just right.
Unplug the AV cable and listen to some music through just the headphones, if the static is still there then you're probably in for some expensive problems.
You could also try a CD lens cleaner, but those never do much.
Good luck.
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Sounds like some of the usual duo sound problems. Try
http://www.pcenginefx.com/forums/index.php?topic=960.msg6834#msg6834
Though I never done this fix myself, it sounds like a rather easy fix if you've ever soldered things before...
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Thanks, I'll definitely try this out.
Anyone know where I can get those special screwdriver tips?
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Oh man I was a victim of that too, but I'm gonna tell my end of that story anyway. I have a Duo-R now, but I used to have a Japanese black Duo.
If it wasn't the AV jacks there is that manufacturing flaw that NEC did that's the cause of this problem. On black Duo systems, the A/V plug is located right next to the power supply. Not good. After several hours of play, the A/V jack catches heat and that's what causes the static crackling and eventually....POOF! No sound.
I know it may be too late to say this, but that's why the Japanese white Duo-R/RX is the best (which can't play USA cards w/o a mod or converter), the A/V jack and power supply were relocated far away from each other.
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Thanks, I'll definitely try this out.
Anyone know where I can get those special screwdriver tips?
http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?from=R40&satitle=4.5mm+game+bit
I believe it's the 4.5mm tip, and not the 3.8mm tip. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but you might as well get 'em both. I bought them from this guy below recently for cheaper, but he doesn't have any listed up right now, nor have I received it yet, so I can't vouch for it just yet. You might want to contact him and see if he has any more for sale if you want the cheaper price.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=001&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=110059505146&rd=1&rd=1
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Thats ok, I made a tool with a flat head screw drivers and used a dremel to cut a notch in the end. Works like a charm! 8)
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Ok I replaced the 2 caps that were mentioned and the static is gone...(for the most part). I'm thinking about replacing the other 3. 8)
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Saved another duo from eventually hitting the dumpster in some corner of the world. Good on you.
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:D
Ok I replaced the two that are in red with a 10 uF 35. Now the one in yellow I need some help on. I went to radio shack to find one that matched it, but I didn't have any luck. Here's what's on the cap:
v2 (there's a line over the v)
22
16v
If anyone knows what replacement cap would be suitable, please post it.
There's still some static by the way, but it's just not as bad.
(http://www.atariage.com/forums/gallery/1163974141/gallery_5439_147_15338.html)
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I told you that these guys know what they are talking about boss! Did you get the CD audio back now as well? I hope so as I see that you have been busy! :mrgreen:
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They most certainly do! This site is awesome.
No CD audio yet. I'm still trying to find out what kind of capacitor that one is. Hopfully that will do the trick.
I'll go through, if I have to, and replace every friggin one on that motherboard(minus the CD lense) to get to get it to work. :wink:
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I still do not understand as it all worked fine when it left here. I think that those bastards at the post office killed it somehow. I am still going to raise Hell on the way that they shipped that box. Still makes me mad!
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Though I can't help out with any suggestions for the replacement, capacitor, I wish you luck. Let us all know how it went...
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I'm still trying to find out what kind of capacitor that one is.
Go to the GameSX forums (http://nfggames.com/forum/index.php?s=712ebc79c5720af983f77ba241a2b57c&act=idx) and ask nicely. Be sure to search the old threads and see if it was answered already.
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This thread took a strange turn...
Oh well. Good to know I don't have to worry anytime soon. I was just worried as my Ys 1&2 I bought at release is still in slick shape but acts a little sketchy sometimes...which started this whole thing.
I now kill a goat and pray to the Turbo gods to watch over my collection every morning.
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Well thanks everyone for your help. Unfortunately I was not able to get any CD or redbook audio to play correctly. I was able to hear a little CD audio when I turned my TV all the way up but it was very faint and scratchy. The Hu-card audio works perfect now. I replaced all 3 pre-amp capacitors and both post-op amp capacitors. Hopefully one day I will be able to get this Duo to play properly. Thanks again.
Brad
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Well thanks everyone for your help. Unfortunately I was not able to get any CD or redbook audio to play correctly. I was able to hear a little CD audio when I turned my TV all the way up but it was very faint and scratchy. The Hu-card audio works perfect now. I replaced all 3 pre-amp capacitors and both post-op amp capacitors. Hopefully one day I will be able to get this Duo to play properly. Thanks again.
Brad
Hmm... Strange.
I can think about trying a new laser pickup, but before I suggest that, can it play regular music CDs okay, or is that also a problem?
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Well it will acknoledge that there's an audio CD in the drive and will play through the songs, but you can't hear any of the audio.
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Ok, I had the same exact problem as you. Now my CD audio is at full volume, and so is the Hucard sound. It still gets a little occassional static, but it is faint. I will be updating a post on my results using D-Lite's walkthrough. There was one more cap that another member recommended, and when I replaced it my Audio was at full volume.
Erik AKA Duo_R
http://www.geocities.com/duo_r@sbcglobal.net
Well thanks everyone for your help. Unfortunately I was not able to get any CD or redbook audio to play correctly. I was able to hear a little CD audio when I turned my TV all the way up but it was very faint and scratchy. The Hu-card audio works perfect now. I replaced all 3 pre-amp capacitors and both post-op amp capacitors. Hopefully one day I will be able to get this Duo to play properly. Thanks again.
Brad
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Ok, I had the same exact problem as you. Now my CD audio is at full volume, and so is the Hucard sound. It still gets a little occassional static, but it is faint. I will be updating a post on my results using D-Lite's walkthrough. There was one more cap that another member recommended, and when I replaced it my Audio was at full volume.
Erik AKA Duo_R
http://www.geocities.com/duo_r@sbcglobal.net
Well thanks everyone for your help. Unfortunately I was not able to get any CD or redbook audio to play correctly. I was able to hear a little CD audio when I turned my TV all the way up but it was very faint and scratchy. The Hu-card audio works perfect now. I replaced all 3 pre-amp capacitors and both post-op amp capacitors. Hopefully one day I will be able to get this Duo to play properly. Thanks again.
Brad
I bought this Duo that Guitarmas had. I was able to get the audio to return. I had to replace every capacitor on the board not just the audio capacitors. All of them had gone bad and had leaked. It was real easy to replace them maybe 30 mins worth of work.
Raven
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Some of the caps I am having a hard time figuring out the values. Also, with the 42uF 6V cap, would 42uF 35v be ok? I know generally you can double the voltage limit, but didnt' know if 35v was overkill. I think I will replace all until all static is gone.
Erik
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that would be the 22uf cap, I used a 22uf, 35v.
check out this post with an update on this fix:
Re: TURBO DUO SOUND FIX!! (56k beware) (http://www.pcenginefx.com/forums/index.php?topic=960.msg33012#msg33012)
Erik
:D
Ok I replaced the two that are in red with a 10 uF 35. Now the one in yellow I need some help on. I went to radio shack to find one that matched it, but I didn't have any luck. Here's what's on the cap:
v2 (there's a line over the v)
22
16v
If anyone knows what replacement cap would be suitable, please post it.
There's still some static by the way, but it's just not as bad.
(http://www.atariage.com/forums/gallery/1163974141/gallery_5439_147_15338.html)
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Ok, I had the same exact problem as you. Now my CD audio is at full volume, and so is the Hucard sound. It still gets a little occassional static, but it is faint. I will be updating a post on my results using D-Lite's walkthrough. There was one more cap that another member recommended, and when I replaced it my Audio was at full volume.
Erik AKA Duo_R
http://www.geocities.com/duo_r@sbcglobal.net
Well thanks everyone for your help. Unfortunately I was not able to get any CD or redbook audio to play correctly. I was able to hear a little CD audio when I turned my TV all the way up but it was very faint and scratchy. The Hu-card audio works perfect now. I replaced all 3 pre-amp capacitors and both post-op amp capacitors. Hopefully one day I will be able to get this Duo to play properly. Thanks again.
Brad
I bought this Duo that Guitarmas had. I was able to get the audio to return. I had to replace every capacitor on the board not just the audio capacitors. All of them had gone bad and had leaked. It was real easy to replace them maybe 30 mins worth of work.
Raven
You know what, I was thinking of doing that. I just replaced all the caps for the amp except for the other 22uf above the 47uf on the right of the amp. I bet by replacing all the capacitors it will make sure there are no program errors and sound/video problems as far as capacitor problems go. I say why not. Could you give some of the values for some of the harder to read caps? For Example: 47 16S 20B or 22 6A 28M, stuff like that. Is still the same like 47uf 16v and 22uf 6v???
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bump: I need an answer so I can buy the components tomorrow, please.
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I still need the values of some of these capacitors, but I went to the store and bought some more capacitors of what I know the values of.
It would seem that most importantly you want to replace any capacitors that lead from the M5205 sound chip. It seems to be the chip that the CD-audio is running through. I replaced the typical 7 capacitors on the left side of the board but I also replaced the capacitors just right under the RF sheild which is about 1 inch away to the left of the M5205 sound chip. The only one I did not replace was the 100 value capacitor since I do not know the exact replacement but I did replace the 10uf and the 47uf near there. So far my system seems to be running perfect now after 2 hours of game play. I keep my room nice and cold just in case, but I will put in a cooling fan one day.
My DUO WORKS, MY DUO WORKS,YAAAAAYYY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!