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NEC TG-16/TE/TurboDuo => TG/PCE Repair/Mod Discussion => Topic started by: D-Lite on August 02, 2007, 05:55:02 AM
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So, to confirm the scattered reports out there, component video, using the JROK component only board, DOES work fine on a Duo, in this case, a DuoR. Got it all hooked up last night in process on another mod and BAM!
One note about doing this, you need to get the sync signal off of the composite video output, not from the #44 pin on the processor. And you need to strip the signal, in my case with the LM1881.
So, now what to do with those encoders I have..... :D
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Oh damn, awesome. I was waiting for someone (other than me) to try this. Does it work with just the...what would that be...four wires? Is an amp needed, or anything like that, or do you hook it straight to the jrock just like a JAMMA harness?
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Nope, it works very nicely with just pulling R,G,B from the processor, but as I noted, you'll need to get the sync from the composite signal. This is the same I found for do the S-Video mod too.
I'm working out placement of the board and stuff now.
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Why doesn't the sync off the chip work? Is it too weak or something? Also, I'm curious, has anyone tried a mod with one of the neo-bitz boards?
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Why doesn't the sync off the chip work? Is it too weak or something? Also, I'm curious, has anyone tried a mod with one of the neo-bitz boards?
I plan on trying the NeoBitz component only. Just haven't gotten to it yet.
I've never had good luck with sync off the chip.
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So I take it you touched base with Gutts on this one then? Either way its cool you got it going. Be interesting if you can get a AD chip based encoder to work well without having to do alot of extra work.
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That's weird, I did the exact same thing on my duo R pulling sync off the composite video, but my colors were off. Red was way too powerful, and there was no way to fix it that I could find. I didn't strip the sync though, I got a stable picture without stripping it. Could that have been why my red was too strong? Grahf's s-video board works perfectly though.
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Have any of you tried sync off the chip with an amp? I went back to gamesx and checked the tut Lawrence made and rgb and sync all need the amp. I'm going to have to get me one of those boards and try some things.
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Would it be possible to still do Stereo, Composite and S-Video out on the same machine?
If not, would you have to only sacrifice the S-Video to keep the rest with Component?
What I'm most interested in, is the possibility of getting component out added to my fully modded with S-Video Duo without sacrificing anything.
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Would it be possible to still do Stereo, Composite and S-Video out on the same machine?
If not, would you have to only sacrifice the S-Video to keep the rest with Component?
What I'm most interested in, is the possibility of getting component out added to my fully modded with S-Video Duo without sacrificing anything.
Change out the encoder. The Jrok component one has composite and s-video also. However I think the composite on the system is going to be better then composite from the Jrok. Jrok composite usually sucks ass.
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There is no need for composite EVER if you have S-video and component. Composite video is not mentioned in the Bible, so it must be the work of the devil.
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There is no need for composite EVER if you have S-video and component. Composite video is not mentioned in the Bible, so it must be the work of the devil.
Indeed, there is no need for S-video or component. All you need is composite. I just modded my brother's 360 to provide 4 simultaneous composite outputs. We sacrificed the HDMI to pull this feat off, but it was worth it. Good times, good times...
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I hope you are using cable absolutely no thicker than 50 gauge, or else you are ruining the experience.
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There is no need for composite EVER if you have S-video and component. Composite video is not mentioned in the Bible, so it must be the work of the devil.
I need composite when recording sound or video off my Duo, so I can hook it to the small TV I keep by my PC for recording.
My video card displays a delayed signal on my screen, so I can't play games in real time on it.
Its also nice to be able to hook it up to random TVs I may encounter, say when I pack it over to a friend's house or something.
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I need composite when recording sound or video off my Duo, so I can hook it to the small TV I keep by my PC for recording.
My video card displays a delayed signal on my screen, so I can't play games in real time on it.
Its also nice to be able to hook it up to random TVs I may encounter, say when I pack it over to a friend's house or something.
Both valid reasons, except I don't consider anyone a 'friend' unless they have their own TG-CD / Duo . :lol:
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The first one is definitely a valid reason, and you won't need great composite for that, so the JROK board should do fine.
The second reason is not valid. People should come to YOU, not the other way around. Are you their subservient? Don't let the white man bring you down and tell you what to do. Damn white people. Bunch of oppressive fukas. Plus you'd have great video at your place, so they should be eager to come to you.
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So some more notes.
- the board I used is the JROK component only board. Using the JROK S-Video doesn't work right and I still don't know why (GUTS, you found that too, yes?). So to use both S-Video and component you'd need both the component board and the S-Video board that grahf and myself make
- the colors with component are very strong and the separation is dramatic. Almost too much so, but I've made the pots on the component board available for adjustment. Pics coming soon. It seems that the light and dark are significantly separated now
I have a working unit I'll take some pics of.
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One thing you could try doing is buying a Neobitz and removing the AD chip and replacing it with a CXA chip instead. There most likely will be some retracing for the connection, but it beats having two video circuit boards in the system at one time. Plus all the black Duo models are crammed for space once you add jacks, region mod and the video circuit board. I guess you could take chunks out of the PCB, but eishhh.
Really, it would just be better to get the S-video mod and make a RGB line out of the nice CXA chip. Then make a Din plug on the system that converts to scart on the cable you hook in. Then buy an external Scart RGB to YUV component converter that isn't crappy like most of them are.
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As much as I'd like to get a decent RGB to Component transcoder(?) someday, I'd still like to get a Duo with Component out built in.
I'm glad that its finally becoming a reality, even though S-Video is still good enough. :)
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The problem I have with component out built into each system I have is that there are very few component video switchers out there. Most only have 4 wimpy inputs. The Pelican one with 8 inputs sucks major ass. I'm on my 3rd one, but they all have the same problem: they suck.
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The problem I have with component out built into each system I have is that there are very few component video switchers out there. Most only have 4 wimpy inputs. The Pelican one with 8 inputs sucks major ass. I'm on my 3rd one, but they all have the same problem: they suck.
Maybe you just suck at using it. [-X
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Yeah, it's so incredibly complex!
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My main Duo never stays in one spot, so its fine for me.
I have a decent switcher, but never use it. My LCD has two component inputs and I only put consoles near the projector when in use.
If I do get a Duo with component though, I'll probably invest in a new CRT TV with component input and finally get some use out of the switcher.
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The Pelican one with 8 inputs sucks major ass. I'm on my 3rd one, but they all have the same problem: they suck.
Yep, I have one of those. The audio inputs quit working completely with the 3rd input which was set for my Neo Geo. At first I freaked out and figured the sound blew out on the system. Turns out I just quit using it. I may open the damn thing up and figure out whats the problem. For $80 damn dollars this thing should be a hell of a lot more reliable. Still, it beats the hell out of hooking between 7 consoles and my Direct TV.
Another thing, it can get stuck on one selection if you unplug the adapter real quick or get a power surge that cuts it off and on. You have to remove the adapter and count to 5 to get it to work right again. Cheap digital switch box I guess.
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I'd gladly pay more for a quality switcher with that many inputs and also TOSlink and coaxial digital jacks on each input. I'd also like to see up/down conversion of component to s-video/composite of non-HDTV sources (for recording to the computer) as well as upconversion of composite and S to the component outputs (as many JVC switchers do). That keeps you from needing to change the input on your TV depending what type of jack is connected. Two outputs would be preferred as well. But the morons who keep making the switches think that there is no way in hell that people would ever dare to own more than 4 things that output video.
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That would be nice for most TV sets definitely. The only problem is if the comb filter on the TV handles composite or S-video better than the switcher, you would be better off just having it hook into the TV with the same connection. I really wouldn't mind paying like $200 for one that just does everything, maybe even more. I am surprised the Pelican switcher has 3 Fiber Optical inputs with 3 Ethernet inputs as well. What problems you been having with yours?
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The overall bandwidth of the thing is low. I'll get some random picture shakes in 480p. 720p seems fairly stable. 1080i has moving diagonal lines in the picture. All 3 Pelican switchers I've tried do this, and now I have the latest version with the "remote". It is cheaply made... it's a Pelican!
http://www.video-storm.com/testdata/pelican_review.htm
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Ok I see it uses 4 relay box switches per selection. One of those must have gone bad on input#3 just for the audio left/right. I hope it just a bad soldier connection, as I don't feel like ordering a stupid relay switch.
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Just hit the relay with the end of a screwdriver to unstick it. Or maybe punch it.
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Just hit the relay with the end of a screwdriver to unstick it. Or maybe punch it.
First, be sure to adequately spritz the relay with a spray bottle and H2O. Then use the screwdriver / punch method...