.......For those installing - try to not go more than 2X the original voltage.
This chart needs to be a sticky! :)
ok now my question... What would happen if I replace the Audio with 33uF 6.3V caps? nothing?
How dangerouse is it to go above the current voltage?
This chart needs to be a sticky! :)
Yeah, the TurboExpress is such a unique piece of machinery that I thought it was fitting the job got done right.
I'm already planning a CoreGrafx portable, with built-in flash cart. The addressing scheme seems to be pretty simple and no dirty tricks like the NES/SNES. Far off in the future, though. I might have more motivation if there's a demand for such a thing.
Here's a chart of the caps on the Turbo Express I made. I'm not sure but I'm assuming that the JPN version is the same.
Hopefully this will make Express repair work for people a bit easier.
Please feel free to use it, but don't claim that this is yours or try to make money off it. That's not why this is here...
Special thanks go to Nat for adding some missing information :D
(http://pic.photobucket.com/bwe.png)
I just pulled all the caps off of my express and that one was a 100uf 6v.i meant the bottom center one... its a 10uf 16v not a 100uf 6v
Oh and nice wifebeater.... LOLMAX:lol:
I have been staying quite on this matter because from what I can tell the topic how now become pretty ugly. I have in no way stolen your idea to make a huge gain for myself. I have been repairing drives like this for a couple years now for a couple local video game stores in my area. It's only been recently that I have decided to put my services on ebay. You claim that my price is too high. I spend at least 5-6 hours working on and testing these drives. I also have to buy parts for the repairs. Do you know how much money I actually make? About $8 an hour after it's all said and done. If it was about money I'd just go and get a 2nd job and not offer this service. You are welcome to offer your service for less and to take some of my buisiness. I am not worried or care about that as this is not my full time job and it is something I do to help people out by keeping their CD drives going. I just don't like being blamed as a stealer of someone elses ideas for my own gain. Think it all you want but this is not the case.
:( :( :( :( I will begin the long road to raising this baby from the dead.
Hopefully, my efforts will not be for naught.
(Is it just me, or is Red Ghost's chart and diagram lacking...?)
i only have 2, 1 with a perfect screen.
the other perfect screens i have seen were units i fixed for others. (all the ones fixed for others)
I've seen programs that flash flat colours quickly to bring back stuck pixels on PC monitors. It would be cool if some kind of homebrew program existied for PCE to try this (loaded up on a flash cart of some sort like the Neo Power 128M).
If any of you guys are interested I posted some photos of my efforts replacing my caps over on Amibay where i'm a regular, I also plugged this awesome site a bit ;) : -
http://www.amibay.com/showthread.php?p=212375#post212375
If any of you guys are interested I posted some photos of my efforts replacing my caps over on Amibay where i'm a regular, I also plugged this awesome site a bit ;) : -
http://www.amibay.com/showthread.php?p=212375#post212375
Nice writeup :D That one guy had never heard of a portable PC engine!? [-( [-X :lol:
Hopefully that mod chip will arrive soon so you can really be playing in style!
ceramic are best.
tantalum come in larger sizes
ive been getting my ceramics on ebay from the manufacturers in 50 and 100 counts
the tantelum caps im using are the 100uf shown and i bought 1500 of them as new surplus on ebay.
all the parts i used can be bought from most on line electronics suppliers.
some good pics would be helpfull (pics of the board and the video defect)
Dear All,
Thanks for your contribution on repairing PCE GT/TE! :D
I've already successfully fixed the sound problem with replace the 16V 100uF cap. However, I've also experienced the dark screen problem on my GT & I've tried to reaplce the 35V 4.7uF cap with a 50V 4.7uF (since I cannot find a 35V 4.7uF cap anymore). The back light came back, however it's going too light, even I adjust to the lowest brightness, it's still too light. Any suggestion on this?
Looking forward to your reply
Best Regards
Constant
Dear All,
Thanks for your contribution on repairing PCE GT/TE! :D
I've already successfully fixed the sound problem with replace the 16V 100uF cap. However, I've also experienced the dark screen problem on my GT & I've tried to reaplce the 35V 4.7uF cap with a 50V 4.7uF (since I cannot find a 35V 4.7uF cap anymore). The back light came back, however it's going too light, even I adjust to the lowest brightness, it's still too light. Any suggestion on this?
Looking forward to your reply
Best Regards
Constant
If the screen is staying too bright even with the contrast adjusted all the way down, its usually because your batteries are almost dead. Try a fresh set and see if that makes a difference!
Qty. | Part # | Description | Price | Ext. Price |
6 | 493-2088-1-ND (http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/UWX0J101MCL1GB/493-2088-1-ND/590063) | "CAP ALUM 100UF 6.3V 20% SMD" | 0.44 | $2.64 |
3 | 493-2105-1-ND (http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/UWX1C101MCL1GB/493-2105-1-ND/590080) | "CAP ALUM 100UF 16V 20% SMD" | 0.47 | $1.41 |
2 | PCE3859CT-ND (http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/EEE-0JA330WR/PCE3859CT-ND/766235) | "CAP ALUM 33UF 6.3V 20% SMD" | 0.49 | $0.98 |
1 | P5114-ND (http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/ECA-0JM471/P5114-ND/244973) | "CAP ALUM 470UF 6.3V 20% RADIAL" | 0.25 | $0.25 |
1 | 493-2118-1-ND (http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/UWX1V220MCL1GB/493-2118-1-ND/590093) | "CAP ALUM 22UF 35V 20% SMD" | 0.51 | $0.51 |
1 | 493-2083-1-ND (http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/UWX0J220MCL2GB/493-2083-1-ND/590058) | "CAP ALUM 22UF 6.3V 20% SMD" | 0.50 | $0.50 |
1 | 493-2099-1-ND (http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/UWX1C100MCL2GB/493-2099-1-ND/590074) | "CAP ALUM 10UF 16V 20% SMD" | 0.48 | $0.48 |
1 | PCE4304CT-ND (http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/EEE-1HA4R7NP/PCE4304CT-ND/946239) | "CAP ALUM 4.7UF 50V 20% SMD" | 0.71 | $0.71 |
1 | PCE4643CT-ND (http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/EEE-1VA4R7AR/PCE4643CT-ND/1718066) | "CAP ALUM 4.7UF 35V 20% SMD" | 0.50 | $0.50 |
1 | P1142-ND (http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/ECE-A0JN470U/P1142-ND/227583) | "CAP ALUM 47UF 6.3V 20% RADIAL" | 0.30 | $0.30 |
Subtotal | $8.28 | |||
Shipping/Tax | ~$3.22 | |||
Total | ~$11.50 |
yes you can use them, but uprate the voltages on most
Nice to see this forum is still kicking! Whats up nightwolve, been a LONG TIME :)
Hence why AC non-polarized ceramics are better. Gotcha. Well, I had a bad experience when I switched to all ceramic with my SNES, so now I'm paranoid about going that route. Blew $11 bucks and then I switched back to cheap electrolytic anyway.... :roll:
I'm sure hot glue would work nicely as well.
Make sure the wiring for the inductor is still connected to its traces on the board. Sometimes when uncovering it one end can snap off. I've used a two part epoxy to cover it back up in the past when I've accidentally uncovered it. Not sure if it needs it but it can't hurt anything to cover again. I'm sure hot glue would work nicely as well.
Use any kind of caps you want.