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NEC TG-16/TE/TurboDuo => TG/PCE Repair/Mod Discussion => Topic started by: BlueBMW on February 13, 2011, 12:24:06 PM
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I recently replaced the capacitors on two of these units. There is no difference as far as the capacitors go on the N1 (PCE) vs the N10 (TG16). Below is a chart outlining what capacitors you will need and where they will go. You will also need a security bit to open these PACs. Its the same bit as used on Duos.
(http://i905.photobucket.com/albums/ac253/bmcdanold/Repair/PacN1_Main.jpg)
Thanks to Red Ghost for the inspiration on cap chart format! :P
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Now if only it didn't cost $10000 to ship my two broken CLD A-100s to you.
I wish I had those bad boys operational.
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Those CLDA100s have a BAJILLION caps in em :P But it sounds like your problems were different. I dont mind trying to fix em, but you are right, shipping is a BEAR on those things!
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Ha ha, glad to see my template lives on :lol: Nice work Blue.
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To whom it may concern; Aaron, nat, etc. Please sticky this repair :)
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Stickyed by request.
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Thanks Byron. Really appreciate your help on my LaserActive related stuff! you are the master of LA :clap:
After a year of experience with LaserActive, I want to share repair experience with folks in here
It is basically like Q&A
Q: My LaserActive has No display when turn on / No display and the tray comes out on itself but unable to close, etc...
A: There are many many reasons for that, eg, dead circuit board which I have No idea how to fix it.
However, based on my experience, there is a chance due to IC protector ( kind of fuse but in IC shape with 2 legs ) blown in power supply board -- Thanks for Byron on this which I learn from him.
There are few ( 5 or 6 I recall ) IC protectors on the power support board -- namely, ICP-N15, ICP-N25/20, ICP-50, etc... You can buy them from ebay or contact me, I have some spare and can give you.
Q: How to tell those IC protector are blown?
A: Use multi meter to test the continuity between 2 legs of IC protector one by one. If you found any one of the IC protector is blown, mostly likely your LA die because of blown fuse, just replace it/them with CORRECT MODEL, eg, replace blown icp-n50 with icp-n50, icp-25 with icp-n25 and good luck -- See pic for IC protector and sample position of IC protector in power supply board
Q: How I take out the power board if the unit is Unable to eject the tray?
A: This is tricky... I found the solution after I broke one of my tray :P
Here is the trick. Open the CD cover on the tray by hand -- Please refer to attached picture. You will see a white gear on the right hand side, use screw driver to push the white gear anti-clockwise, I recall you don't need to push too hard, just make sure you don't push too hard and break the gear ](*,) Gracefully push the gear and you will find the tray eject slowly as long as you push the gear.
Q: My LaserActive unit can power on with display. It can even play hucard/sega cart. However, whenever I put the disc ( CD or LD ) into it, the disc is No spin / unable to read disc?
A: There are couple reasons for this. Let me try to share my exp.
1. dirty laser lens -- clean it with distilled water with cotton tips -- I was told do NOT use alcohol due to there is a coating on the lens and alcohol will remove that coating.
2. If no luck, try to do one thing, put a CD into the tray and press play button. Try to observe the laser lens action. Once the laser move under the disc, the Lens -- (Not the whole unit - just the white circle lens ) should Move *UP* and try to read disc. If the lens move *up* but still No reading the disc - I guess you have bad laser lens -- you can either turn the POT on the laser lens clockwise just a little bit and try again.
If still No luck, I bet you have bad laser lens and need replacement. Well, I also have few of them which from other Pioneer LD models eg, CLD-S250, CLD-S260, CLD-S350, CLD-S360, CLD-1720K, CLD-1730K, CLD-J720 ( sorry, these are all Asian model number )
3. If you found the Laser lens is Not moving UP when try to read the disc, you probably have blown IC Protector fuse in Main Board -- ( Not power supply board this time ) -- Please refer to attached picture for the position of the fuses. -- there are 2 of them ICP-N10. Replace them and try again -- this time, lens should Move up when try to read the disc
4. Now, I replaced the lens -- and confirme the lens is good -- eg, you have 2nd LaserActive. The disc is still Not spin. Mostly likely, you have 2 problems here
a. bad motor --> You can find this in above pioneer models but the power wire of motor is a bit shorter. Well... it fits just marginally fit with laseractive unit :)
b. blown thermal fuse in power supply board -- Yes, Not IC protector fuse but Thermal Fuse!
Again, test those fuse -- there are 2 , with meter, if they/it failed with continuity, replace them. Please refer to attached for the Thermal fuse ( U25 or X25 – 250V 2.5A 150C ) and they are under the metal cover of the power board F101 and F102. I have tons of those thermal fuses, let me know if you need them
5. Now my Laseractive can read CD but Not LD… Whenever it plays LD, the tray just eject by itself
Observe what happen when it try to read LD, does the loading mechanism base ( the whole unit under the tray when tray is closed ) try to push up the LD but Not succeed? If yes, I am pretty sure you have bad loading belt, just replace it and it will work with LD now. Please see the attached picture for the position of belt. Yes, I also have tons of them, let me know if you want to get one/some
Q: I replaced the capacitor on my PAC-N1, and has blinking screen when play HUCard ( CD game is fine as long as No card has been inserted into the pac-n1 ). What happen?
eg, some Hucard card games ( eg, victory run, DORAEMON - MEIKYU DAISAKUSEN -- esp for those games with light color background, the screen will keep blinking when you power on the machine -- around 5 out of 10 times when power on).
A: I am Not sure this is the right way to fix it but it works perfect.
Check Video board of LaserActive unit, locate a pot called VCXO Err Adjust ( voltage-controlled crystal oscillator ) -- try to adjust this pot until the screen is Not blink anymore.
Please refer to attached picture for the position of the pot
Update: I found that there is another way to fix the flicker screen for HUCard after reap. I replaced the crystal oscillator on the PAC-N1 and now no longer have flicker screen after recap! Please refer to the picture for the location of the crystal oscillator, I have plenty of them, let me know if anyone need some
That’s all about for right now. Have fun with your laseractive! :mrgreen:
update:
Q: my laser active works fine for around 1 minute whenever I shut it down for a while(say 10+ hours). Within the first min, it is able to play cd/ld. However, after a minute, both green lights on the front panel are off And No longer play disc. You have to wait for another 10+ hours to get the 1 min working timeframe.
A: this issue drives me crazy.... I found the root cause is the PCB board inside the laseractive which directly connected to the PAC had capacitor issue. I replaced all the caps on that board and now it works fine.
update 2:
Q: My laseractive has Audio output with CD ( megaCD / PC Engine CD ) games. However, when I play LD games, I got No audio music ( I mean background music ). What happen?
A: I found that it is caused by burnt IC --> CA0002AM ( Audio Demodulator). Once you replaced this IC, you should be able to get back your background music for LD games.
The CA0002AM is located in Video board ( the board covered by white sheet ). The IC located on the side withOUT capacitor.
This IC is a bit tricky to find and I am able to find it from a China supplier. Let me know if you need it, I can buy it for you ( only < 1 USD per chip + shipping ). I only have 1 for my spare parts so unable to give it for free
update 3:
Q: When I turn on the laseractive, I found that the laser lens ( white circle laser lens ) is bouncing up and down crazy ( eg, bounce 20+ times in a few seconds ) and it is unable to play cd/ld
A: Please try to measure the -5v voltage from the FTSB ASSY board ( the board with a lot of pots eg, focus gain, track gain,etc... ). The board has label for -5v mesauring point.
If you found you missed -5v, most likely you have bad resistor on power supply board. Take out the resistor R301 ( which supposed 2.2k ) from the power supply board and measure the value. If it's value is far away from 2.2k, replace it and see if it helps
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More pictures
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and more
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Last one
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Awesome info Jimmy!
I will add also if you recap a pac and you are still getting glitchy operation try washing the board in the dishwasher. I had an NEC pac that once recapped worked but had wierd graphical streaking at times. Washing it cleared up the problem.
To wash a PCB in the dishwasher....
Remove the supercap (or battery on sega pacs) load it in the dishwasher alone. Use a small amount of detergent and be sure to turn off heated dry. After the cycle is complete, heat your oven to the lowest temp (usually 170F or so) Once heated, turn the oven off and place the board inside. Let it sit in there for a good 2-3 hours. When you remove it you will find that it is perfectly dry. You may put a note on the oven so one else comes along and turns it on while youre drying.
I was skeptical about using this method but it has saved a few boards that I just couldnt get clean manually. Ive yet to damage a board with this method. Also works great for super grimy arcade boards.
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Thanks Byron! Glad to see you reply my post :-({|= When I read your reply saying put the circuit board into washing machine, I was shocked! amazing it works :clap:
Any idea for the VCXO err adjust, is it rational? I just wonder why replaced the caps need to adjust this pot ( yes, I found hucard game play flick even I only replaced 5 leaked caps -- 22uf ). Then I replaced all the caps and hope the flick will be gone. Not luck until I adjust the pot. No idea why but glad it works :dance:
Additional info regarding the battery of pac-s1/s10. If you found the battry is leaked or unable to store save data, you probably need to replace the battery on the sega pac. After spending a while, I am able to find the battery replacement. Note: The original button battery is rechargable! don't replace with regular non-rechargable battery, I am not sure what will happen if you do so.
The original rechargeable battery is ML2016 with legs solder on it. For my soldering skill, it is very hard to solder legs on the battery and a bit dangerous. Therefore, I try to find the replacement battery with exactly same legs position soldered. Eventually, I found ML2032 rechargeable battery ( exactly same size, legs position but just double thickness. I tested it and it works like a charm.
Please refer to attached picture, the blue one is the orignally battery on the pac-s1/s10 ; the yellow one is the replacement I found.
If you are unable to find such battery, let me know, as long as not large quantity / you are not resell it, I am able to give you some.
Thanks again!
Jimmy
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I've found replacement batteries before but yeah they are tricky to find the right voltage / recharge-ability etc.
I've not had to mess with that particular pot... I do know I've had graphics issues from leaked fluid stuck in vias and under chips on the PAC boards. The dishwasher method worked great for cleaning it out. Drying it in an oven ensures that you get all the moisture out of the board.
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So, be honest guys. Is all this work just so you can stay up until 4 AM playing Quiz Econosaurus?
Great work as usual!
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But the Earth will soon be depleted! And its all my fault!!!!
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But the Earth will soon be depleted! And its all my fault!!!!
Best obi in the history of obis.
You guys are awesome. For a schmuck like me that doesn't know how to fix his own dick when it is droopy, this is like modern magic. Keeping this info pinned and updated is great for the community... and the next guy I send a broken pac to!
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Hi, guys, I have a Pioneer LaserActive with Pack MegaDrive.
It works perfectly with the megadrive Pack but he did not play discs (CD/LD).
I opened it and noticed that it does not spin the discs. Apparently everything else works normally (gears, optical drive ...) the lens moves, up and down, but does not spin discs.
I'm measured the voltage going to the motor, and is 3V. I think it's a very low voltage.
What think you can be? Please I need help.
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Hi, guys, I have a Pioneer LaserActive with Pack MegaDrive.
It works perfectly with the megadrive Pack but he did not play discs (CD/LD).
I opened it and noticed that it does not spin the discs. Apparently everything else works normally (gears, optical drive ...) the lens moves, up and down, but does not spin discs.
I'm measured the voltage going to the motor, and is 3V. I think it's a very low voltage.
What think you can be? Please I need help.
Hi, guys, I have a Pioneer LaserActive with Pack MegaDrive.
It works perfectly with the megadrive Pack but he did not play discs (CD/LD).
I opened it and noticed that it does not spin the discs. Apparently everything else works normally (gears, optical drive ...) the lens moves, up and down, but does not spin discs.
I'm measured the voltage going to the motor, and is 3V. I think it's a very low voltage.
What think you can be? Please I need help.
Not sure the voltage for the motor. Disc not spinning can be Just bad laser lens.
Also, it can be bad thermal fuse on the power supply board. It also can be bad motor as well.
I suggest you check the laser lens (If you have spare) and thermal fuse first.
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Update for the cap issue for the PCB board directly connected to the pac
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I did the continuity test, the thermal fuse, F101 and F102.
The two are ok (has continuity).
I suspect that the engine is not running.
Is there any way for me to test this engine?
If the engine is blown, where I find this engine model?
choijimmy, thank you for the tips. I really want to be able to do my Pioneer LaserActive back up and running.
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I did the continuity test, the thermal fuse, F101 and F102.
The two are ok (has continuity).
I suspect that the engine is not running.
Is there any way for me to test this engine?
If the engine is blown, where I find this engine model?
choijimmy, thank you for the tips. I really want to be able to do my Pioneer LaserActive back up and running.
regarding the engine, you mean motor? If Yes, you can get it from the models I listed above. I also have some spare parts but they are a Bit heavy to ship. How about the laser lens? Why you think it is not the issue? For example, do the machine "try" to spin the disc? eg, does the green button on the front panel shows it recognizes cd/ld? if it recognized cd/ld , when you press play button, it will try to spin the disc, you may hear some sounds which try to spin the motor.
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Have you tried using the LA without the pac installed? I don't know if it's possible for a pac to keep the disc from spinning or not, but I know that before my FEKA pac was recapped it'd act all goofy; movies wouldn't play and the tray mechanism would ignore eject commands, but only when the pac was installed. Without the pac, the LA worked perfectly, and it's worked just fine since the recappening.
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I bought this LaserActive recently and have never seen him work with CD or LD.
I put the CD he pulls the tray, the lens moves, up and down. But in no time the CD spins.
Will the problem is the motor, that not spins the CD?
Or will the LaserActive is not recognizing the CD?
I made the video to show how it is.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qaBmNS2Pm4&feature=youtu.be
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I bought this LaserActive recently and have never seen him work with CD or LD.
I put the CD he pulls the tray, the lens moves, up and down. But in no time the CD spins.
Will the problem is the motor, that not spins the CD?
Or will the LaserActive is not recognizing the CD?
I made the video to show how it is.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qaBmNS2Pm4&feature=youtu.be
Just watched the video, I will check the laser lens first. the reason is the lens does Not recognize the disc at all. I bet the laser lens issue
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You mentioned in your post, "you can either turn the POT on the laser lens clockwise just a little bit and try again"
The POT is what is located in the flat cable, the laser lens?
I want to try to turn the POT if it does not work, I have to find a laser lens that is working. My God, where I'll find it?
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You mentioned in your post, "you can either turn the POT on the laser lens clockwise just a little bit and try again"
The POT is what is located in the flat cable, the laser lens?
I want to try to turn the POT if it does not work, I have to find a laser lens that is working. My God, where I'll find it?
Yes, the pot is on the ribbon cable under the laser lens, try to turn the pot a bit by bit to see If it helps. Take a picture to record down the original position.
I do have some spare laser lens which works fine but I can't ensure it will fix your issue since I am not 100% sure it is laser lens issue even I guess so.
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I looked at the LaserActive, but failed.
I'll have to get a lens that works.
In your opinion should I buy 2 (motor and lens) or only the lens already solves the problem the LaserActive?
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I think you can try the laser lens first due to it is much lighter to mail from here
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I'm coming back, I need help. I bought a laser, he came and installed it on LaserActive but is not yet playing cd.
But first, I want to ask for help for other details. Before the new laser arrive, I tried to turn the trimpot the old laser, but made a big stupidity in one of the times
I turned the trimpo with LaserActive working and smoke started coming out of the laser, and at the same time I hung up the LaserActive. Despois addition, LaserActive does not show the home screen, it's just a black screen. The pac mega drive is still working, when I insert a cartridge, but when no cartridge inserted the screen goes black. What can this be?
And going back to the other problem, the 1st issue, the LaserActive still not identifying any CD, it just turns the cd when I click play but not execulta the CD.
I made this video to show: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jaitPF-gPos&feature=youtu.be
Does anyone have idea what can I do?
Help.
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I believe the motor that spins the CD / D is not burned, because when I press play it spins the CD, but the lens does not identify the CD.
Note: There are 2 lights on LaserActive panel, the "CD led" and "led LD". Even in the absence CD within the LaserActive, the "CD led" is off and the "LED LD" on ...
I made this video to show: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jaitPF-gPos&feature=youtu.be
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take the pac out
try to play a cd
the missing cd bios issue and no cd detected are different problems
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I have news. I tested the IC protectors on the power board support. All is continuous, except for one. The IC301 (N50), this has no continuity.
I also tested (out of curiosity) 2 IC Protector fuse in Main Board, N10. These 2 also lacks continuity.
In short, 1x N50 and 2x N10 burned. I believe that replacing these 3 IC Protector, will solve the CD reading problem.
Now with respect to not display the home screen of LaserActive. Anyone have any idea how to solve this problem?
Does the missing cd bios (eprom was damaged)?
(http://pic.photobucket.com/bwe.png)
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The fuses could be the whole problem
Note that fuses can cause the lens smoke as well
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replace those fuse first. The blown fuse indicate good sign since they blown instead of other components in the boards fired.
Let me know if you need those fuse, I have plenty of them. As you know, it took a month to ship the stuff from Hong Kong to Brazil. Not sure it will be quicker to find them in your place.
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replace those fuse first. The blown fuse indicate good signal since they blown instead of other components in the boards fired.
Let me know if you need those fuse, I have plenty of them. As you know, it took a month to ship the stuff from Hong Kong to Brazil. Not sure it will be quicker to find them in your place.
I want rather the fuses. What value can you send me two of each fuse?
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replace those fuse first. The blown fuse indicate good signal since they blown instead of other components in the boards fired.
Let me know if you need those fuse, I have plenty of them. As you know, it took a month to ship the stuff from Hong Kong to Brazil. Not sure it will be quicker to find them in your place.
I want rather the fuses. What value can you send me two of each fuse?
replace those fuse first. The blown fuse indicate good signal since they blown instead of other components in the boards fired.
Let me know if you need those fuse, I have plenty of them. As you know, it took a month to ship the stuff from Hong Kong to Brazil. Not sure it will be quicker to find them in your place.
I want rather the fuses. What value can you send me two of each fuse?
I can send you for free since they aren't expensive. Just sent
3 x icp-n50
5 x icp-n10
2 x icp-n20
2 x icp-n15
2 x icp-n25
These are all the ic protector models laseractive needed.
Make sure you replace the exact icp model and don't try to jump the wire to bypass the fuse before the fuse arrived.
Good luck.
Jimmy
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replace those fuse first. The blown fuse indicate good signal since they blown instead of other components in the boards fired.
Let me know if you need those fuse, I have plenty of them. As you know, it took a month to ship the stuff from Hong Kong to Brazil. Not sure it will be quicker to find them in your place.
I want rather the fuses. What value can you send me two of each fuse?
replace those fuse first. The blown fuse indicate good signal since they blown instead of other components in the boards fired.
Let me know if you need those fuse, I have plenty of them. As you know, it took a month to ship the stuff from Hong Kong to Brazil. Not sure it will be quicker to find them in your place.
I want rather the fuses. What value can you send me two of each fuse?
I can send you for free since they aren't expensive. Just sent
3 x icp-n50
5 x icp-n10
2 x icp-n20
2 x icp-n15
2 x icp-n25
These are all the ic protector models laseractive needed.
Make sure you replace the exact icp model and don't try to jump the wire to bypass the fuse before the fuse arrived.
Good luck.
Jimmy
Thank you so much.
I will wait for the arrival for testing.
Any news, I'll let you know.
Note: Is there a tracking number?
Thanks.
Cleilton Farias
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replace those fuse first. The blown fuse indicate good signal since they blown instead of other components in the boards fired.
Let me know if you need those fuse, I have plenty of them. As you know, it took a month to ship the stuff from Hong Kong to Brazil. Not sure it will be quicker to find them in your place.
I want rather the fuses. What value can you send me two of each fuse?
replace those fuse first. The blown fuse indicate good signal since they blown instead of other components in the boards fired.
Let me know if you need those fuse, I have plenty of them. As you know, it took a month to ship the stuff from Hong Kong to Brazil. Not sure it will be quicker to find them in your place.
I want rather the fuses. What value can you send me two of each fuse?
I can send you for free since they aren't expensive. Just sent
3 x icp-n50
5 x icp-n10
2 x icp-n20
2 x icp-n15
2 x icp-n25
These are all the ic protector models laseractive needed.
Make sure you replace the exact icp model and don't try to jump the wire to bypass the fuse before the fuse arrived.
Good luck.
Jimmy
Thank you so much.
I will wait for the arrival for testing.
Any news, I'll let you know.
Note: Is there a tracking number?
Thanks.
Cleilton Farias
No tracking number since the registered airmail cost much more that the fuse itself :)
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replace those fuse first. The blown fuse indicate good signal since they blown instead of other components in the boards fired.
Let me know if you need those fuse, I have plenty of them. As you know, it took a month to ship the stuff from Hong Kong to Brazil. Not sure it will be quicker to find them in your place.
I want rather the fuses. What value can you send me two of each fuse?
replace those fuse first. The blown fuse indicate good signal since they blown instead of other components in the boards fired.
Let me know if you need those fuse, I have plenty of them. As you know, it took a month to ship the stuff from Hong Kong to Brazil. Not sure it will be quicker to find them in your place.
I want rather the fuses. What value can you send me two of each fuse?
I can send you for free since they aren't expensive. Just sent
3 x icp-n50
5 x icp-n10
2 x icp-n20
2 x icp-n15
2 x icp-n25
These are all the ic protector models laseractive needed.
Make sure you replace the exact icp model and don't try to jump the wire to bypass the fuse before the fuse arrived.
Good luck.
Jimmy
Thank you so much.
I will wait for the arrival for testing.
Any news, I'll let you know.
Note: Is there a tracking number?
Thanks.
Cleilton Farias
No tracking number since the registered airmail cost much more that the fuse itself :)
It does not matter. There will come for sure.
thank you again
:dance:
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updated the Q&A post with No Audio fix
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Talked to Hardgb, those ic protectors fixed his laseractive cld-a100 :D
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Update the solution(replace the crystal oscillator) for Hucard game flicker screen after recap the pac-n1
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Nice!
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I am very pleased to inform everyone, my LaserActive is in full operation. Thank you all for your help. In particular the choijimmy. I'm very happy. :dance:
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I am very pleased to inform everyone, my LaserActive is in full operation. Thank you all for your help. In particular the choijimmy. I'm very happy. :dance:
By watching your youtube video, it looks like the loading time is a bit longer than usual.
Are you using cdr? if yes, you better burn the cdr with lowest speed eg, 8x
Also, you can adjust the pot to make it read better if you want
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It is actually a CDR yes, it was just to take the test. :roll:
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Hi Guys, I had some problems and had to sell my LaserActive forgive me but it was necessary :cry:... but the good news is that in the same week, I found another LaserActive he is in trouble but the value was low and bought. :lol:
This LaserActive works with Mega Drive cartridges, but when I put a CD, it works for a few minutes (1 minute maximum 2 minutes) and soon after turn off the lights CD and LD and does not eject the tray. Back up and running again after a few hours.
Does anyone have any idea what's wrong? Are they the plate capacitors connected directly to the CAP?
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take a good look at the supply
lights out is supply in most cases, but they dont recover
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I got same problem a while back. I bet it is capacitors issue
From my FAQ in page 1:
update:
Q: my laser active works fine for around 1 minute whenever I shut it down for a while(say 10+ hours). Within the first min, it is able to play cd/ld. However, after a minute, both green lights on the front panel are off And No longer play disc. You have to wait for another 10+ hours to get the 1 min working timeframe.
A: this issue drives me crazy.... I found the root cause is the PCB board directly connected to the PAC had capacitor issue. I replaced all the caps on that board and now it works fine.
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I switched capacitors board, connected directly to PAC mega drive. Thus the problem of turning off lights and not eject the CD tray / LD has been resolved.
But I still do not spin in CD / LD.
Already checked the fisiveis are all working (have continued).
Note: I realized that when I put the CD in the tray, it rises, but not enough to touch the top base (white round cover)
I do not know if this is related to the problem.
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and that is a worn belt
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This belt
http://www.pcenginefx.com/forums/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=9267.0;attach=1899;image
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I did not have time to repair my LaserActive
but now I could replace the belt, and it worked it's returned to work perfectly. I am very happy with everyone's help. Thank you
See how was:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0sdu5uQ6WCI
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awesome
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Hello, I've recently replaced all 80 smd caps on a Sega PAC for the laseractive. Very pleased with the result, have been working on my soldering skills for a few years, this was by far the largest job I've attempted. Luckily the caps weren't that bad, most had started leaking but not to the extent of doing much damage. By some small miracle all the caps were removed without lifting a single trace, result!
The laseractive is now almost fully functional... LD movies and mega LD play just fine, have a few movies and one mega LD game (Pyramid Patrol) all working without a hitch. The CD drive is also fully functional, audio and JPN mega CD games play perfectly. I've successfully changed the region on a few USA games and they are working fine as well (using SCDToolz 3.55).
The one issue I have is cartridge based games, all I get is a black screen when powering the unit with a cart connected to the PAC. I had originally thought this was due to me having a JPN region PAC-S1 but no JPN cartridge games. The mega CD games I have running are all JPN, USA/PAL discs don't work without altering region. So I ordered a JPN cartridge game, this arrived today but gives the same black screen as my PAL cartridges (I'm in the UK so everything easily available is PAL here). I also have a mega Everdrive and this also results in a black screen... weird.
Both PAC cart connector and cartridges have been thoroughly cleaned with no change in behavior... same black screen. I'm now lost as to what to try next... any ideas??
Have attached some pics of my soldering wizardry :D
(http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o773/williamjohnsteele/AmiBay/th_P1020713_zpsto7thzo4.jpg) (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/williamjohnsteele/media/AmiBay/P1020713_zpsto7thzo4.jpg.html) (http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o773/williamjohnsteele/AmiBay/th_P1020714_zpsi8bav2fd.jpg) (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/williamjohnsteele/media/AmiBay/P1020714_zpsi8bav2fd.jpg.html) (http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o773/williamjohnsteele/AmiBay/th_P1020715_zpskribsayt.jpg) (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/williamjohnsteele/media/AmiBay/P1020715_zpskribsayt.jpg.html)
(http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o773/williamjohnsteele/AmiBay/th_P1020723_zpsevtmkt7f.jpg) (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/williamjohnsteele/media/AmiBay/P1020723_zpsevtmkt7f.jpg.html) (http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o773/williamjohnsteele/AmiBay/th_P1020725_zpsyclgi15w.jpg) (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/williamjohnsteele/media/AmiBay/P1020725_zpsyclgi15w.jpg.html) (http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o773/williamjohnsteele/AmiBay/th_P1020728_zpsg8a2fiz7.jpg) (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/williamjohnsteele/media/AmiBay/P1020728_zpsg8a2fiz7.jpg.html)
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flip it over and try again
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OMG... Thanks so much, thats it!
Cant believe that ](*,)
It just makes sense the label should face up, guess not!
Oh well, Sega PAC is fully working, plays PAL carts just fine as well, Everdrive also works perfectly and can be used with a region free bios for mega CD games :D
Time now to start looking for a N1 PAC...
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Most pacs originally had a little sticker on them instructing you to insert the cart label face down. I suspect someone removed it already
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For future noobs like myself...
(http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o773/williamjohnsteele/AmiBay/th_P1020761_zps6icacfju.jpg) (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/williamjohnsteele/media/AmiBay/P1020761_zps6icacfju.jpg.html) (http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o773/williamjohnsteele/AmiBay/th_P1020762_zpsvitxsrws.jpg) (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/williamjohnsteele/media/AmiBay/P1020762_zpsvitxsrws.jpg.html)
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For future noobs like myself...
(http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o773/williamjohnsteele/AmiBay/th_P1020761_zps6icacfju.jpg) (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/williamjohnsteele/media/AmiBay/P1020761_zps6icacfju.jpg.html) (http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o773/williamjohnsteele/AmiBay/th_P1020762_zpsvitxsrws.jpg) (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/williamjohnsteele/media/AmiBay/P1020762_zpsvitxsrws.jpg.html)
The one good thing about it connecting that way is that when one uses one of those tototek converter carts, the Mark III cart and MyCard games stand nicely upwards.
(http://i.imgur.com/LV5Otre.jpg)
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TRANSBOT!
Wow, I forgot how much better the Japanese coverart was for Le TransBot.
Amazing.
(http://i.imgur.com/LV5Otre.jpg)
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Yep. You are not wrong.
(http://i.imgur.com/LxgPMEY.jpg)
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Can anyone who owns a Laseractive with the Sega Pac be so kind to tell me if its normal for the IC in the pic below to get scorching hot after just a few minutes of gameplay?
My unit is a bit under the weather ATM (even after replacing capacitor & parts all across the boards), and I've had bad chips gone bad before and that's usually one of the symptoms but in this case I don't know. Thanks in advance for any help!
(http://pic.photobucket.com/bwe.png)
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Can anyone who owns a Laseractive with the Sega Pac be so kind to tell me if its normal for the IC in the pic below to get scorching hot after just a few minutes of gameplay?
My unit is a bit under the weather ATM (even after replacing capacitor & parts all across the boards), and I've had bad chips gone bad before and that's usually one of the symptoms but in this case I don't know. Thanks in advance for any help!
(http://pic.photobucket.com/bwe.png)
Play pc engine cd game for 5 mins and the chip is around 50c based on my feeling
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That could be why they left an opening in that plastic cover. They were anticipating that chip getting hotter than others and didn't want to melt the plastic.
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Play pc engine cd game for 5 mins and the chip is around 50c based on my feeling
That could be why they left an opening in that plastic cover. They were anticipating that chip getting hotter than others and didn't want to melt the plastic.
Thanks for the replies! It does seems normal for this chip to get hot, and the plastic cover opening makes total sense.
I have three Laseractive units two of them are American (they were in storage until today) and one of them is Japanese, this last one is the one giving me problems.
Basically what happens is, it plays all Laserdisc games and movies not problem every time all of the time. But when playing Mega Cd games after a few minutes during gameplay, the discs will stop/pause spinning, and then start to play again at random. Almost feels like this happens when the system temperature raises.
I have ruled out the Sega Pacs because they all have been recapped and they all work fine in my other American systems. I've also replaced capacitors all over the Japanese Laseractive boards making very little difference.
The Japanese Laseractive model seems to be the newest revision of them all (judging by the 1996 date) and yet, it seems to be the less reliable. In my other two units, the boards show some type of last minute modifications (such as the addition of smaller IC board fixes) but on this one there aren't any. Also this is the only unit (out of the three) that the power supply has the additional IC protector like the one seen in the pic below (Thanks to BlueBMW for the pic)
I've also tested for bad/shorted/open ic's but they all check ok. When I first got it, the power supply had some leaky caps and it also looked like someone had messed with some of the potentiometers (I manage to tweak them until the unit was able to read all discs again), also replaced the laser with a known working one thinking that could be the obvious culprit, but still works and behaves exactly as the old one did. And finally, I've followed all of BlueBMW's recommendations I've found on the net, with little success.
Is there some sort of trick for these Japanese models that I'm not aware of?
Your help is greatly appreciated, thanks again!
(http://i905.photobucket.com/albums/ac253/bmcdanold/Repair/LA_PowerSupplyTest.jpg)
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In the power supply board, there is a 2.2k resistor in position R301 , can you measure it's value by using multimeter? I have two laseractive produce unstable -5v due to this resistor.
Also, I assume you replaced all the caps on the PCB board in laser active which directly connect to the pac, right?
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In the power supply board, there is a 2.2k resistor in position R301 , can you measure it's value by using multimeter? I have two laseractive produce unstable -5v due to this resistor.
Hmmm, I think you may be onto something :-k . After the PSU capacitors leaked there was definitely a big mess afterwards. I did a lot of cleaning but maybe I missed something (even though I added new solder to most of the contacts ) . I'll double check everything including this resistor and will get back on this, thanks!
Also, I assume you replaced all the caps on the PCB board in laser active which directly connect to the pac, right?
Yes all of them. There was no difference between the before and the after, sadly ](*,)
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could be a weak laser, oddly the sega cd games require better laser control then the LD stuff
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Discovered I had a dead RAM backup battery, original ML2016 now replaced with a shiny new ML2032 rechargeable battery. Slightly thicker than the original but a perfect fit.
(http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o773/williamjohnsteele/th_P1020796_zps0cutml33.jpg) (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/williamjohnsteele/media/P1020796_zps0cutml33.jpg.html) (http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o773/williamjohnsteele/th_P1020797_zpsechmvggg.jpg) (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/williamjohnsteele/media/P1020797_zpsechmvggg.jpg.html)
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Discovered I had a dead RAM backup battery, original ML2016 now replaced with a shiny new ML2032 rechargeable battery. Slightly thicker than the original but a perfect fit.
(http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o773/williamjohnsteele/th_P1020796_zps0cutml33.jpg) (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/williamjohnsteele/media/P1020796_zps0cutml33.jpg.html) (http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o773/williamjohnsteele/th_P1020797_zpsechmvggg.jpg) (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/williamjohnsteele/media/P1020797_zpsechmvggg.jpg.html)
Me too. somehow I am UNable to find rechargable ML2016 with fitted legs.
I am able to find ML2032 with correct legs which works perfect for few years
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Me too. somehow I am UNable to find rechargable ML2016 with fitted legs.
I am able to find ML2032 with correct legs which works perfect for few years
Is the ML2032 not a direct replacement? I had thought so... as the ML2032 is rechargeable I though this would last more than a couple of years!?!
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Me too. somehow I am UNable to find rechargable ML2016 with fitted legs.
I am able to find ML2032 with correct legs which works perfect for few years
Is the ML2032 not a direct replacement? I had thought so... as the ML2032 is rechargeable I though this would last more than a couple of years!?!
ML2032 is correct replacement (3v rechargable ) but just thicker and thus more storage than ML2016
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Ok so I just find out my Japanese Laseractive power supply for some reason has a 1A 250V Fuse. It isn't supposed to be a 2.5A 125V fuse instead?. Is this some kind of last minute factory modification? or did the previous owner installed the wrong fuse rating?
Also,the Japanese Laseractive has a DWR1155 power supply, while my American unit has a DWR1156 one. I can see there a few differences for example, the big cap near the front (470uf 180v VS. a 390uf 200V cap), some of the resistor values around the same area, and the additional IC protector at the bottom (Japanese unit only).
if it's indeed the wrong fuse, how the heck did it manage to live this long without blowing up? :-k
American:
(http://pic.photobucket.com/bwe.png)
(http://pic.photobucket.com/bwe.png)
Japanese:
(http://pic.photobucket.com/bwe.png)
(http://pic.photobucket.com/bwe.png)
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confirmed my Japanese cld-a100 has 125v 2.5A fuse. Yes, some power supply board somehow has extra icp-n50 at the bottom side of the pcb
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I had a problem with my LaserActive, someone dropped it and is no longer working.
I'm trying to eject the tray LD is not working. I'm turning this gear but is only ejecting the CD compartment. (http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd380/hardgb/How_to_eject_tray_when_No_power_zpsfqhf4lf7.gif)
I need help to eject the tray completely and to see Which laserdisc problem.
Please help me.
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The system is completely no power and just the ld tray is not out? If it still have power, out probably wait for the system turn on for 30 seconds, so the tray is completely unload, then try to turn the gear. If still only the cd tray comes out but not ld tray, I bet the tray or loading mechanism is broken or misalignment .
I used to have this problem (loading mechanism or tray is broken and only cd tray comes out when turning the gear )，the only way I can do is force it to come out but it will break the tray or load mechanism for sure!!! The reason I did this is I have complete tray/load mechanism replacement from eg, cld-s260. Thus, I force the tray come out and replace both loading mechanism and tray.
If you don't have replacement, don't force the tray to come out, I am so sure it will break it. Try to play around with the gear and sometimes , the ld tray may come out in certain position I guess. However, I am pretty sure either your tray or loading mechanism is broken or misalignment during the drop, otherwise, the ld tray should come out when you turning the gear.
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The system is completely no power.
Today I managed to eject manually tray LD, and not break anything.
But I realized that the "power supply board" is in trouble.
No continuity in 5 IC protector in power supply board and the fuse (125V 2.5A) was burned.
I have replaced the 5 IC protective. I did not find the fuse "125V 2.5A" I used a fuse 250V 2A, but failed. I called but the fuse blew again.
(Note: It confirms the protective IC 5 have not burned.)
The fuse has to be the "125V 2.5A" or can I use any other?
Even as a fuse 225V 2A is normal burn it instantly?
What should I do, please help me.
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you can use any 2.5A fuse at or above 125v
that it failed says you likely have something shorted in the supply
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I purchased the fuse 250V 2.5A but the two fuses esplodem (2A and 2.5A) before I hit the power button the LaserActive.
They esplodem at the time I plug the power cord into the power grid.
What problem can be doing esplodir fuse?
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Possible bridge rectifier
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bad diode or bad fet likely
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bad diode or boba fett likely
Fixed. :)
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So what should I do to test and repair the "power supply board" my LaserActive?
I have little esperiência with repairs but I'm quite dedicated.
Please I need help.
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first step is get the repair manual (its posted online)
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I found "Service Manual" at this link: http://www.cyberroach.com/new_laseractive_pics/misc/clda100_repair/servicemanual.htm
This image shows the "power supply board"
But now what should I do?
Forgive me, understanding very little of electronics.
Need help. :cry:
(http://www.cyberroach.com/new_laseractive_pics/misc/clda100_repair/page025.gif)
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http://console5.com/wiki/File:CLD-A100_Service_Manual_-_ARP2757.pdf
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updated the FAQ in page 1 with missing -5v issue ( which cause the laser lens bouncing up and down rapidly )
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deleted-- please refer to my post in first page :shock:
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Very good stuff! I should add your findings to the first post here
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When I turn on the laseractive, I found that the laser lens is bouncing up and down crazy.
I believe the solution to this problem is to "update 3" but I did not understand.
Please, I need help because I'm unable to play cd/ld
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When I turn on the laseractive, I found that the laser lens is bouncing up and down crazy.
I believe the solution to this problem is to "update 3" but I did not understand.
Please, I need help because I'm unable to play cd/ld
I recall you said the fuse blown everytime when you turn on the machine, now the fuse no longer blown?
In my update 3, what I mean is you should measure if you get -5v from the power supply board or not. You can find -5v measuring point from the PCB which have a lot of pots.
If you missed -5v, then most likely the resistor r301 in the power supply board has issue. This resistor suppose 2.2k, check the resistor value by taking out from power supply board. If the value is far away from 2.2k, replace it
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Regarding the problem of my LaserActive. He was not working ... but found that the transistor "pcb power" was not working, I will replace and my LaserActive returned to work.
I hope you can understand my English.
(http://pic.photobucket.com/bwe.png)
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congrats!
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Please, what are the values of resistors R301, R302, R303 and R304?
They're very light color, I can not identify.
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Please, what are the values of resistors R301, R302, R303 and R304?
They're very light color, I can not identify.
R301 is 2.2k
R302 and R303 are both 220ohm
R304 in my board is a bridge, not resistor
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Hi. I got my laseractive today. The seller showed me video of it working but of course it doesn't now. PAC games work fine but I got no spin on CD.
When I put in music CD, the laser moves to the first track and screen says "compact disc" and CD light is on. When I press play, the disc just ejects. At no point does it ever spin.
With PCE CD games (with super system card in hu slot) the laser mech cycles a few times, disc never spins and eventually I see "set disc" error.
suggestions?
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More info: Tested F101 / F102 on main power board (under silver cover) and they're good
The CD spinner drives plugs into power board (red/green wire) Once in a while it actually does spin (not always) and voltage goes up to 8V on it but tray still ejects.
Is this a sign of a bad laser? Is it possible for laser to see disc but not play it?
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More testing .. more results.
- I tested every fuse on the power board. All good.
- The boot process is as following:
No disc:
- laser rail comes up
- laser moves to track 1 position
- laser detects no disc
- moves back down
With CD:
- laser rail comes up
- laser moves to track 1 position
- laser white eye moves up down and stops
- Tv shows "Compact Disc"
- after a few seconds the disc ejects!
At no point did the CD ever spin!! On some rare cases (once every 20 tries or so) the disc does spin! But then stops and ejects. So I can't imagine it's any of the fuses (fuse either blown or not blown)
NOTE: This is the Japanese LA being plugged into USA mains. But that should not be a problem as it worked this way for YEARS (I think the first thing after the fuse is it runs into a transformer that converts it to DC power). The only thing that recently changed was it got shipped to me across the country and I have video of it working before shipping. :(
So the problem is either bad motor or something else. I believe the motor gets its power from the main power supply board (red/green wire that plugs into 2 pin molex closest to back of LA).
I get the same behaviour when that molex is unplugged. So I put my voltmeter on in. Always reads 0V. On the rare case it spun, it read up to 8V, but never steady voltage (a lot of bouncing around). and then down to 0V and tray ejected.
At this point, I'm thinking it's once of the power regulators on the power PCB under that shield. I traced one of the pins on that connector to a cap, resistor, and then regulator there.
I've made a youTube video showing the problem: https://youtu.be/ykSUIgLfOKg
Thanks for any suggestions you guys might have.
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More testing .. more results.
- I tested every fuse on the power board. All good.
- The boot process is as following:
No disc:
- laser rail comes up
- laser moves to track 1 position
- laser detects no disc
- moves back down
With CD:
- laser rail comes up
- laser moves to track 1 position
- laser white eye moves up down and stops
- Tv shows "Compact Disc"
- after a few seconds the disc ejects!
At no point did the CD ever spin!! On some rare cases (once every 20 tries or so) the disc does spin! But then stops and ejects. So I can't imagine it's any of the fuses (fuse either blown or not blown)
NOTE: This is the Japanese LA being plugged into USA mains. But that should not be a problem as it worked this way for YEARS (I think the first thing after the fuse is it runs into a transformer that converts it to DC power). The only thing that recently changed was it got shipped to me across the country and I have video of it working before shipping. :(
So the problem is either bad motor or something else. I believe the motor gets its power from the main power supply board (red/green wire that plugs into 2 pin molex closest to back of LA).
I get the same behaviour when that molex is unplugged. So I put my voltmeter on in. Always reads 0V. On the rare case it spun, it read up to 8V, but never steady voltage (a lot of bouncing around). and then down to 0V and tray ejected.
At this point, I'm thinking it's once of the power regulators on the power PCB under that shield. I traced one of the pins on that connector to a cap, resistor, and then regulator there.
I've made a youTube video showing the problem: https://youtu.be/ykSUIgLfOKg
Thanks for any suggestions you guys might have.
Do you have laserdisc? if yes, would you try to put in a laserdisc and to see what happen?
I suspect few things
1) belt
2) the motor itself ( when you try to spin the motor by hand, does it spin easily )
3) the main board has loose component ( see attached picture for the board )
Let's try easy one first, put the laserdisc in and to see what happen
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unable to upload how main pcb look like due to forum upload folder full ??
Basically, it is the pcb with a lot of pot which control the power/tune of the laser
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sorry. No laserdisc and motor does spin freely.
Can you email me pics and I'll upload them? I'm leonki@gmail.com
I was originally thinking it has to be something in the PSU. 14/-14V go to main video board. There an op amp uses the 14V under directions from a processor to spin up and run the main motor. If 14/-14V is mission, I think most of the system will still work (as it mostly uses 5V)
I could be down the wrong path. But then again, solid state devices don't tend to fail from shipping. Loose parts makes more sense!!
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OMG! I FIXED IT! BY MISTAKE I FIGURED OUT WHAT IT IS!!! THIS MIGHT EFFECT OTHERS AND HAS NOT BEEN DOCUMENTED BEFORE!!
Background:
On the body of the laser unit, between the laser lens and front of the system, is a copper tab sticking out. Between that copper tab and towards the middle of the system is a thin copper wire. On this thin copper wire is a small piece of square copper just hanging there.
Problem:
The laser moves all the way to the spindle, and detects it's a compact disc. But that copper tab and square should go UNDER the hub of the CD spinner. If they are bent a bit up, they hit the side/face of the hub. This cases the entire laser lens to twist almost 30 degrees to the disc! The laser no longer sees the surface of the disc, player thinks something is wrong, and ejects the disc.
Solution:
Very carefully, push down on the copper tab so it's more parallel/level. The tab has to go UNDER the hub (black circle that spins the disc). If it's kept flat, laser detects the disc and motor will start spinning the CD and all will be fine.
Solution 2:
Replace the entire laser assembly.
I wonder how many good lasers were thrown out because of this flaw!
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Congrats. Strange enough by shipping the whole laseracrive main unit will bend the little copper wire.
I do see a lot of shipping broke the laser itself when just ship the laser assembly itself, once a while, the copper wire is even broke and disconnected.
In additional, I am a bit surprised the tray will be ejected in this case, I thought the laser will just sit back and keep the tray stay in the main unit.
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As per service manual, its part of its initialization routine. Laser sees CD first but then doesnt see it anymore. timer runs out and ejects tray.
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As per service manual, its part of its initialization routine. Laser sees CD first but then doesnt see it anymore. timer runs out and ejects tray.
i
Cool. Good to know this
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there's a good flow diagram in service manual (full pdf on console5 wiki) that shows initialization logic. It's interesting that any failure resilts in "eject tray". ;)
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original pic was down so here it is again.
(http://s1.postimg.org/4aycrodfrj/Pac_N1_Main.jpg)
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Hi (my first forum post)!
Came to this forum for this thread... Saw a posted link elsewhere. I hope I'll have soon some new information to give (or at least give a fault descrption and confirm which of the previous hints worked in my case).
I'm not a newbie with electronics and have fixed some other equipment earlier. But now I'm with a pile of Laseractives I have been recapping slowly and trying to fix some issues. Got few hints already from this thread and will check out if any helps for problems I'm having. If not, I'll describe them better here that we can take a look together.
choijimmy: sent you PM, I need some parts as well.
What I can already confirm to other people: these things really need recapping nowadays. At least power supply needs to be redone, but whole machine recapping is recommended. I have now recapped five power supplies and found several caps already leaked in them. For testing purposes I also did measure one power supply caps, noted them to be good (except two small ones (changed them immediately) near fuses), but after some use the power supply gave up and when taking apart many caps in it had visible leak.
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About opening the tray...
While searching information about problems (and how to fix them) with Laseractive I noted that few people have struggled with opening the disc tray when the system died. Couple of different solutions has been described, but none I found were the same I used already long time ago (and I believe many people knows this, but it's just not been written anywhere). There is simple and easy way to do this without risk breaking anything - assuming the tray system is not broken otherwise or stuck somehow (for example an item blocking the tray from moving).
1. Remove the power plug from wall socket
2. Open the Laseractive cover
3. Take a look under the tray from same side where the power supply is installed
Next to power supply towards to front panel you can see a motor attached under the tray. This motor is attached with a belt to a larger pulley (and when this belt is too loose, you'll have also problems with opening the tray and loading the disc while starting to play).
4. Turn that larger pulley with your finger
IMPORTANT: this same motor + pulley handles also rising the laser + spindle to upper position for playing the discs. Take a look to the laser and spindle while you turn the pulley, if they start to rise up, then you're turning in wrong direction.
In normal situations (tray system not stuck/broken) this pulley moves easily. It takes several turns that the tray opens, but this way you can open the tray still fast enough without worrying that the tray system gets broken while forcing it to open.
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Some reporting:
It's really apparent by now that when the caps go bad, a lot of things may happen. The LA I'm working on didn't got a power surge (ie. did NOT die suddenly from over voltage, which could be really apparent in such large damages), it just gradually started having problems with disc (CD) playback -> in the end didn't play anymore disc whether CD or LD, just tried to do so...
Found out so far:
Several more or less leaked caps from various boards.
2.2k resistor in power supply transformed itself to something like 195K (causing the -5V line to be something else...)
Audio demodulator toasted (apparently due to -5V failure)
2x burned fuses on service board
What is remarkable is that none of the fuses in power supply went out. So, the supply kept feeding the system even while caps were leaking and voltage levels were incorrect.
After changing caps, 2.2K resistor and two fuses:
Laser led functionality looks correct (moves up/down again)
LD and CD are again detected correctly
Disc spins to apparently good speed (after parts change it didn't spin correctly before I made some tuning to potentiometer sitting on the laser led ribbon cable)
However, laserdisc playback seems to be not working yet. The Play-button led keeps flashing, not constantly lit as it should be in normal situation.
Now waiting for service remote, service LD and part shipment to get the audio chip etc.
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Some reporting:
It's really apparent by now that when the caps go bad, a lot of things may happen. The LA I'm working on didn't got a power surge (ie. did NOT die suddenly from over voltage, which could be really apparent in such large damages), it just gradually started having problems with disc (CD) playback -> in the end didn't play anymore disc whether CD or LD, just tried to do so...
Found out so far:
Several more or less leaked caps from various boards.
2.2k resistor in power supply transformed itself to something like 195K (causing the -5V line to be something else...)
Audio demodulator toasted (apparently due to -5V failure)
2x burned fuses on service board
What is remarkable is that none of the fuses in power supply went out. So, the supply kept feeding the system even while caps were leaking and voltage levels were incorrect.
After changing caps, 2.2K resistor and two fuses:
Laser led functionality looks correct (moves up/down again)
LD and CD are again detected correctly
Disc spins to apparently good speed (after parts change it didn't spin correctly before I made some tuning to potentiometer sitting on the laser led ribbon cable)
However, laserdisc playback seems to be not working yet. The Play-button led keeps flashing, not constantly lit as it should be in normal situation.
Now waiting for service remote, service LD and part shipment to get the audio chip etc.
As per chat, try to turn the pot on the laser back and forward ( just make sure don't over 2PM position ) to see it helps.
Also, double check the service board, make sure No 3 legs transistors have bad/cold solder joint