PCEngineFans.com - The PC Engine and TurboGrafx-16 Community Forum
NEC TG-16/TE/TurboDuo => TG/PCE Repair/Mod Discussion => Topic started by: BlueBMW on April 03, 2011, 02:55:21 PM
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Will update pictures on new forum.
It seems that none of this hardware is safe from leaking capacitors as some of these Super CDROM2 units have started to exhibit issues relating to failing capacitors. Note that both RF shields must be removed and the laser assembly must be removed before all the capacitors can be accessed. Below is a chart mapping all the capacitors in the Super CDROM2 unit.
The laser installed in the Super CDROM2 is the Sony KSS-210B and the unit has the same 5 adjustment pots like a Duo unit.
UPDATE:
Some units have an additional 100uf cap installed right above the 4 sided Sony chip next to the 22uf surface mount caps beneath the laser assembly. Others just have an empty pad without a cap.
Also, the RF shields MUST be reinstalled for this unit to work properly. It looks like it links some grounds to one another.
(http://i905.photobucket.com/albums/ac253/bmcdanold/Repair/SCDROM_CapChart.jpg)
Thanks once again to Red Ghost for the chart format!
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nice clear pictures!
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Nice, bimmer. Give this man a sticky!
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Nice work! Yet another great resource for the community. Thanks for crediting my layout design too 8)
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Nice work! Yet another great resource for the community. Thanks for crediting my layout design too 8)
Hey! Credit where credit is due! :P And by keeping the same format across all systems, it makes it easier to reference.
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Nice work! Yet another great resource for the community. Thanks for crediting my layout design too 8)
Hey! Credit where credit is due! :P And by keeping the same format across all systems, it makes it easier to reference.
Agreed! This needs to be a sticky as well. I'm going to try and go find where I put in requests in the past...
EDIT: Ok, just found the old "Sticky request" thread over in the "Comments and Suggestions" forums and requested both this topic and the other old TGCD repair topic I made be made "sticky" :wink:
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Curious, on the current cap repairs, have you guys switched over to using surface mount solid caps, or are you still using the normal thru-hole electrolytic stuff? Solid caps have come down in price the past few years, to the point even that they are becoming a normal for even midrange pc motherboards. You guys may want to look into bulk buying them, at least the smaller ones, so you can solder them on their required spot instead of having to run wires out and stuff to work around the tight fits.
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I still use leaded caps because I'm not that good at SMT stuff yet, though as I get better I'll probably switch over to direct replacement caps.
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what's the easiest/cheapest way to get all the caps necessary for this job?
Also, is there a cluster that are for the sound, if I want to only replace those?
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The cheapest way is to buy caps in bulk which doesn't work well if you're just doing one system. Ill be putting an order in for more caps soon so pm me if you'd like me to get you a set.
As far as just doing sound caps... there's really no point in doing only some of the caps. They're all the same age and likely leaking. Just because a cap doesn't affect sound doesn't mean it wont affect another system. I've had bad caps cause laser read issues before. If you're already in there just do them all.
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Yeah, honestly the cheapest way would be for you all to pull your resources into a group purchase if you can get at least 6 or more people in on it, that should go to one guy who will serve as the capacitor bank. Buy enough to handle 20-30 systems minimum. Then as you all need the caps, he can mail them via first class mail out to you in the bundles you need that you paid for, and sell bundles to others too, and use that money towards refilling the bank when it gets near empty.
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I buy between 50 and 250 of each size cap each time I order them.
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I'm pretty interested to get a full set of replacement caps for an ailing unit. Would you have some on hand? Please PM me if you do, or when you'd next be ordering some.
Can you find these at local hardware stores around the world?
I have some capacitor vendors around here in my area.
When searching for caps, what type of caps should I use, and which not to use?
eg.
Type/Make: Radial caps, Aluminum, electrolytic? Which to avoid?
Mounting: Through hole or Surface mount?
Capacitance Value: (These values I already have via BlueBMW's very helpful guide.)
Tolerance: ?
Voltage: (Also from Blue BMW)
Ripple Current: ?mA
Thanks so far guys!
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I appreciate all the help guys!
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I replaced all the caps I was able to source locally at a electric hardware store around here.
The sound problem I had initially remained during the first try, but cleared up in about 5 mins (it used to take close to 20 mins with the old caps). Will observe some more if the problems remain. Thanks, for the help guys!
See this other thread for an update on my problem:
http://www.pcenginefx.com/forums/index.php?topic=10214.0
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What's the size of of the Torx on these units.....my unit just shit the bed.
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bust3dstr8, You need a Torx-10 security bit to open your super cd-console and duo-r/rx.
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Hi Guys,
Has anyone identified the audio section in the Super CD ROM2 Add-on unit?
I would really like to just start with the caps that are in the audio-section as seen with the duo.
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I've got three units im working on right now. Ill see if I can isolate it. I think its mostly in the area of that removable sub board though. That's where I see some op amps
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farankoshan,
Since you have replaced many caps in the super-cd unit, with no sound-fix.
Could you please share which caps were replaced? I could then slowly replace the ones you did not on mine and we may be able to locate the audio section of the board more quickly.
If all else fails, I will be working my way through every section bit by bit until I locate the audio section.
Thanks to everyone here. This forum is great resource for NEC owners.
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BlueBMW,
Thanks! I was guessing that section would be it. (we'll see).
It sure looks promising. It also contain a lot of caps which I think I'll have to use the little SMD's.
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Just wanted to update on my "crackly sound" that didn't go away after the full cap replacement (see page 1):
Once I replaced the lens on my unit, the sound problem disappeared completely. Now, whether it was the new lens that fixed it, or the extra cleaning of the board after the new lens was installed, the sound comes out clear. ;)
So to whoever may be struggling to fix a sound problem, keep the above info in mind.
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cd read errors sound crackly too
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farankoshan,
Since you have replaced many caps in the super-cd unit, with no sound-fix.
Could you please share which caps were replaced? I could then slowly replace the ones you did not on mine and we may be able to locate the audio section of the board more quickly.
If all else fails, I will be working my way through every section bit by bit until I locate the audio section.
Thanks to everyone here. This forum is great resource for NEC owners.
Well, as I mentioned on this thread, the sound problem didn't go away with the COMPLETE cap swap, or even with new caps on the areas isolated by many of the earlier posters. However, it must be said that it was only after the lens was swapped with a new one that the audio problems disappeared completely. So in my case, I can't really say which caps helped most with audio, but just change them all, since caps all fail with excessive use eventually, and the whole board is connected, so leaks & failures are bound to affect another component. And caps are cheap anyway. If the problem persists, then opt for a laser change, because as with my unit, that fixed everything right away.
Hope this helps.
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Okay everyone, I have found a solution for the distorted audio people have been experiencing on these CD drives. Hopefully this doesn't pertain to just this drive I fixed and will work for many others of you out there plagued with having distorted audio within the first 5-10 minutes of usage even after an entire electrolyte capacitor change.
This issue was driving me crazy recently since I changed out all my caps and still had the same issue. Whether it was with Hu card sound or CD rom sound I had distorted audio for the first 5-10 minutes and then it got better.
I found two small surface mount resistors that had gone bad on the audio circuit. One for the right channel and one for the left channel. You can change these if you want or just bypass them with a wire. In my pic I had actually removed the bad ones(this was to make my testing easier)but you really don't have to. You can check to see if it fixes your problem by just touching a wire from one side to the other before doing any soldering or making changes of any kind. Try it and see if your audio goes from distorted junk to crystal clear audio. I have circled the two bad resistors in the zoomed in pic below.
I have also included a larger pic so you can see what section of the board they are on.
(http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/1169/cimg6322.th.html) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/834/cimg6322.jpg/)
(http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/3087/cimg6327f.th.html) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/269/cimg6327f.jpg/)
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those look like 1k resistors to me.
if jumpering them improved it, it means you have a bias current issue on the transistors.
look for voltage issue around them.
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ah my mistake. I was trying to look up the part online and all I could find said they were capacitors.
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more to the point, your solution addresses the symptom, not the cause and could burn the transistors.
it does indicate that your very close to the cause.
if you trace out the circuit, and follow the current you will find the cause.
i suspect a damaged trace or via, causing reduced current to the transistors.
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Hi Guys, This might not be the proper place for this question, but its surely the most knowledgeable group for the SUPER-CD-ROM2 Unit. Q: What is the expansion port (I/O port) under the console for? Did NEC ever make an add-on to fit into this I/O port? What would it be used for ? I am guess a game-save-memory expansion, but that's a total guess. Does anyone have a pin out to see what this thing is capable of?
Thanks.
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Keith's solution works fine for me. My sympton is got low volume/ static sound from the Super CDROM AV port int he first few mintues. After warming up, the sounds back to normal level and no more static. If I plug the AV cable from the coregrafx AV port, No warmup at all.
I replaced all capacitors on the boards but still No luck. Keith suggested to jump the wire for the resistors on the sub-board in red circled ( attached ). Then it works perfect! No more warmup even I plug the cable into Super CDROM AV port!
Thanks Keith!
Jimmy
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I actually solved this issue recently
The problem, was a dirty main board, near the 1000uf cap
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I actually solved this issue recently
The problem, was a dirty main board, near the 1000uf cap
Thanks thsteve.
I did cleanup the board with alcohol / contact cleaner yesterday but No luck. Not sure why. Also, I don't see any leak residue close to 1000uf.
Indeed, I have 2nd Super CDROM which complete No sound for CD game ( but HuCard is good ). Let me try to clean that board thoroughly to see it helps or not.
Thanks again!
Jimmy
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When I found it I couldn't see anything on the board either as another tech had cleaned it
On the 7pin plug of the sound board the center pin is antithump
It must be 0 when running
It runs near a power trace under the board, and any residue pulls the voltage up
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Very good info to know there steve! I've seen several super cdrom2s with this issue.
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Hi all, I'm trying to solve a SCDR² issue with very low sound (no crackles), I just try with Hucard (mono) for the moment. I started to draw a scheme for the small upper board (4558 is a 2 x amplifiers, BU4053BF is an analog mux/demux, M51131L is the volume/balance control).
I checked all electrolytic capacitors of this upper board with the capacimeter function of my Multimeter, the values are in the specs of the nominal values.
Is it a capacitor with good measured value could be defective ?
On the other side of the board, I checked the diodes in the transistors Q601/Q602/Q603/Q604, and the 2 x diodes with common anode from D601 are ok too.
I cleared the solder flux.
The supply on the CN103 connector between pins 6 (9V according to my memory) and 6 (gnd) seems ok, I thought initially it would be around 12V, if someone can confirm me ?
outputs audio signals are routed to 1 & 3 of CN103.
The voltage for volume control (from CN104 pin 4) seems at correct level (5V).
When I will investigate enough on this one I'll have a look on the audio section on the mainboard.
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I seem to remember Kieth Courage finding another issue on these units that caused low volume but I cant remember what it was... hopefully he will chime in here soon.
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He did strap a resistor on the transistor base, not the right solution imo.
on the pin4 of the 7 pin connector (on top or bottom board), anyone can tell me where this pin goes?
it's the command on the base of the transistor (through a diode and a 1K resistor on each)
edit: Keith courage mods, pictures on last post previous page, but as Steeve pointed the mod adressed the symptoms, not the cause.
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here a little schema.
(http://s10.postimg.org/w4s6w0yol/depan_SCR.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/w4s6w0yol/)
what is routed to the pin 4 and where ?
Is voltage on pin 6 correct ?
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here are the voltages I measured, 0V console to earth with oscilloscope probe, with a Hucard:
CN104(1): 4V (Z io of the BU4053B)
CN104(2): 0V (ABC bits selections of the BU4053B)
CN104(3) 4V (IC521 pin 3 & 5 in+ of amplifier 4558)
CN104(4): 5V (volume control input of M51131L)
CN104(5): 0V
CN104(6): 4V (1st out amp 4558 IC506)
CN104(7): 4V (2nd out amp 4558 IC506)
CN104(8): 4V
CN104(9): 4V
CN103(1): audio Left not measured
CN103(2): 0V (ground)
CN103(3): audio right not measured
CN104(4): 1,32V (Q603 & Q604 base, before diode ans 1K resistors)
CN103(5): 4V
CN103(6): 8V (V supply, from pump charge ?? because no other regulator than 7805)
CN103(7): 4V
M51131L (volume & balance control)
1: 8V (V supply)
2: 3.4V (input 1)
3: 3.1V (output 1)
4: 5.52V (Vréf)
5: 8V (Low pass filter)
6: not connected
7: gnd
8: 5V (volume control)
9: gnd
10: 2.8V (Balance control)
11: gnd
12: 5.52V (wire to 4)
13: 3.1V (output 2)
14: 3.4V (input 2)
if someone can make measurement to compare to my values, thanks for your help
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cn103 pin 4 is wrong
the board needs cleaned better
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thanks.
Do you know where is routed the pin, I try but for the moment I did not succeed to find.
I suppose the voltage should be closer to 4V ?
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cn103 pin 4 is wrong
the board needs cleaned better
after better cleaning, it improved a bit the volume (but more cracklings), I checked the voltage on pin 4, the value is lower (around 0.9V), so I suppose the value should tend to 0V to increase again volume.
This pin is routed to D303 cathode (2 x diode, one is wired to the PNP Q309, the other to PNP Q308.
Base of Q309 is wired to Vout of expansion port through 10K (R311). Base of Q308 is wired to D304 anode through 6K8 (R319). Cathode of D304 is wired to 8V.
There is a common point on Q309 and Q309 wired to cathode of ZD303 (I suppose it's a zener).
I think be close to the solution...
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How are you cleaning the board? I found that the only way to really get all the old leaked fluid out is a dishwasher run.
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I use a flux remover and a brush
something like this (http://www.newark.com/itw-chemtronics/es896b/flux-remover-brush-6fl-oz/dp/97C8422)
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I use only Hucard for testing right now, CD unit is remove for the moment.
I think cracking come from capacitors, I will try to change some of the 10µF/16V (even if measured values are ok)
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it runs all over, but I've seen the issue under the board near the 1000uf cap
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The crackles are from that voltage
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from that voltage ? the 0.9V, what is yours on connector ?
here are an image of what I think is wired (except error) all discrete components are close each others I wrote the measured values.
http://postimg.org/image/8ipv7j2ix/
when I use the DMM on the Q308 base, more crackling noises.
I think about a problem on Q308 ? what do you think ?
still dirty residue in your opinion ??
Thanks.
Edit: ok my pin is the one you talk above (antithump) that should be close to 0V ?
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my tests oc crackling units was 0.9-1.2
good was 0.0-0.15
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I'm pretty confident the issue is fixed, because I removed the 1000µF, there was capacitor's leakage, the varnish and the via was attacked.
I washed all and set a product to minimize contact resistance, and changed the capacitor.
For whom want to know, I answer to one of my question, yes a capacitor can have a good value but be defective.
I'll test tomorrow and keep you in touch.
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Did you replace all the capacitors or just some of them?
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for the moment I replaced 2 leaded capacitors, I didn't change SMD.
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Ahh.... I would highly recommend you just go ahead and replace all the capacitors. Its a pain but will save you headache in the future.
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well, I'll perhaps change leaded and the ones which are under the top RF shield.
Others are accessible later just by removing the laser unit.
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Hi, after cleaning under the 1000µF and had the capacitor changed, sound is better but I'm not sure with the results.
Volume from SCDR² AV connector is lower than Console AV connector, is it normal ?
The voltage on pin is around 0.6V, I don't see any residues on the coper wires and vias between the components mentioned in my post above. The diodes measured on Q308 and Q309 (PNP) are ok.
edit: to be more accurate, the voltage is around 0V but after something like 10 minutes of run, with an initial voltage of around 1V with cold start, so there is a drift but for the moment I didn't succeed to find out. The volume on SCD² seems lower than direct to console anyway.
I'll reflow welding around this components tomorrow.
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I've typically noticed it to be a little quieter from the SCDROM2 versus the core system.
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that voltage should start higher then bleed off (sounds like its doing that now)
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then the sound beginning a few lower and a little crackly is normal ??
I measured a low resistance at ZD303 (around 90 ohms between A-K), I don't find where it come from.
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Up, please.
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I think it's fine, I changed some others leaded capacitors + test with RF shield, the voltage is around 0.5V at start up then decrease, a SCDR² is reborn, great ! and thanks for help I appreciated it.
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Does anyone know what happens when the RF shields aren't installed?
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i could be wrong about this and someone please correct me if i am, but i believe the bottom shield is part of the grounding for the system.
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I have the same issue of low, scratchy audio for the first few minutes of operation and then it gradually improves. I have replaced all the capacitors.
I haven't tried any repairs yet but I would like to know what the resistor size and value are on the 14T board that need to be replaced (shown circled in red on image), I don't just want to jumper them as I'm sure this could lead to problems (they're there for a reason right?).
I already cleaned the board with alcohol when I repaced the caps, but I will try again and maybe see if that antithump thing is running at the correct voltage.
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I have tried to using both 1. jumping wiring 2. Cleaning the pcb.
I use ultrasound cleaner to clean the PCB ( I don't have disk washer ), however, my ultrasound cleaner is Not big enough to put the whole PCB into in. I am only able to clean the part which around the 1000uf cap area. The result is pretty surprised, I am able to get 70% of sound volume in first 5 mins compare to jumping wire method. After five minutes warming up, the PCB cleaned machine has same sound volume compare to jumping wiring one.
I believe if my ultrasound cleaner is big enough to clean the whole PCB, it will solve the problem completely.
I don't see the point by replacing the resistors since the root cause is not those resistors. You should clean the PCB thoroughly( just clean the PCB by using alcohol with cotton swab won't help because leaked cap fluid is all over the via holes ). If you are not comfortable by cleaning the PCB in disk washer, ultrasound cleaner, Jumping wire is you last resort. I have a mahine which jumping the wire for around 1 year and use pretty often, so far no issue yet.
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I misunderstood the resisitors information as I just scanned over it.
Unfortunately I don't have access to a dishwasher or an ultrasonic cleaner, so I suppose I might have to reluctantly try the bridging method.
I suppose I could just use the AV socket of my Core Grafx instead of the Super CD-ROM². I only just learned that this could be done, which basically means that there is no need for an AV out on the Super CD-ROM² (unless you are using an original PCE maybe?).
I tested the voltage on the centre pin of the sound board (antithump?) and got 1.13v, so I know that this is probably the issue. So thoroughly cleaning around the 1000uf cap will help? The original cap did have some leakage when I removed it but I cleaned the whole are around the heatsinks with alcohol, but I guess this wasn't enough.
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I've had the same problem and cleaned and reworked with solder the power input circuit and this solved the problem.
But I do have a problem with the drive not reading cdr's where it was ok before.
There are two jumpers on the Super cd-rom2 called J1 and J2.
One is for the shielding problem and joins two sections of the Gnd.
The other is for the 5V that's may be missing from your Video out Din connector.
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Did someone have the schematic on the power supply from jack socket to 7805 input, from what I remind there is a power diode, then a PNP mosfet and NPN mosfet with some zener diodes.
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the shield is for noise supression only, will run fine with them removed
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Just done a total recap and now my drive is clicking and searching but not loading cd's.
I've checked all caps and they are the correct value.
Is there any caps that need to be a particular spec?
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the ground on the plate over the mech is required
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All shielding in,
It look like it was the missing cap mentioned at the beginning of the thread next to the Sony IC.
I had not put it in.
Popped a 100uf 16v in and it's reading disks now.
Still clicking more than normal though.
Any idea what the cap is connected to?
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All shielding in,
It look like it was the missing cap mentioned at the beginning of the thread next to the Sony IC.
I had not put it in.
Popped a 100uf 16v in and it's reading disks now.
Still clicking more than normal though.
Any idea what the cap is connected to?
If the laser eye is making cliking sounds as it seeks/reads, it may need to be calibrated, because it is not staying focused.
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What needs tweaking?
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i was thinking the CDR2 not the SCDR2, so on that the shields are less critical
the needed adjustment would be a guess at best without the unit handy, but focus level would be likely if the laser was replaced
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I've managed to adjust it so it's not clicking that often.
reads all disks now.
Not sure if I'm being over critical.
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Hi guys,
I try to help someone who did recap a SCDR² and it don't works in RGB now.
the cable works fine with the core.
I asked him to try simple link from expansion port (with its Sodipeng cable)
there is just CVBS for sync, 0V and 5V for fast blanking in Scart 16, then 2 colors through the Sodipeng.
here are the results the colors are added and saturated there is no additive colors.
(http://s24.postimg.org/u3ad9tg91/20151220_184138.jpg)
(http://s24.postimg.org/cra0odmrp/20151220_184324.jpg)
the CVBS works fine when pin 16 is removed, all in grey with 3 colors when plugged.
Any idea ?
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that tv (FS120?) doesnt do RGB
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nope, it was a problem with the sodipeng amp not wired, so is problem fixed for RGB, but still a little sync problem, when CVBS is connected directly from expansion port to SCART 20 it works (original wire from DIN cable is removed), when cable is normally use and a wire cabled between expansion port and pin 3on the Din there is some deformation/waves on a side of the TV
edit: fixed.
Another one.
Lens go up and down, beam is visible then "set disc" message ?
The SCD² was recap by a non professional of the job.
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I just bought a SG+SCD2. I was wondering if the SCD2 is as bad as the DUO and MCD cap wise? DUOs ALWAYS need re-capping, did the SCD2 use the same shitty SMD caps as the DUO or is it a bit better in the cap department? I will re-cap it anyway, I just want to know if I will face something as bad as the DUO I bought a while back. Several caps had corroded the board so badly, they had fallen off. I have to use the vias for those because the pad has been eaten away. If the SCD2 is in the same boat as the DUO/MCD/Game Gear, I will make sure I have the caps ready, on hand once the system is on its way to me.
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In my experience the SCDROM2 is just as bad as the Duos etc but we havent seen it as much since its a little bit newer of a unit and less common.
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I bought a SG+SCD2 about a month or two ago. It needed the caps replaced. The caps did not damage anything yet but they were leaking.
I recap all NEC consoles I come in contact with now. Even if they work and/or technically don't need it. Imo it is just a smart move. I even recapped the SuperGrafx Even though it worked just fine.
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these have sound issues from the residue due to trace proximity, so be sure you get it washed good
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Thanks for the info, guys. About the area of the board with low clearance, what is the best way to replace those caps without using wires? Is it OK to use ceramic SMD caps there? Is there something different you would all recommend?
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Here are some pics of the area on my Super CD-Rom 2 unit.
(http://s5.postimg.org/ish4ynsbn/DSC00727.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/ish4ynsbn/) (http://s5.postimg.org/997g574tf/DSC00728.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/997g574tf/) (http://s5.postimg.org/6t5mrcmqr/DSC00732.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/6t5mrcmqr/) (http://s5.postimg.org/vaxqf8pb7/DSC00734.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/vaxqf8pb7/)
The way the expansion board is laid out the caps are just behind the other ones on the main PCB. There is one cap in that area on the bottom at C63? but I used a ceramic cap in that spot so clearance was not an issue. I cut the legs short on the caps that go on the expansion board then bent the legs into a "L" shape and soldered them on.
I used Nichicon audio caps on the expansion board except on C604 and C610. I used ceramics in those two spots.
I use this to measure stuff when working on these consoles.
http://mnpctech.com/pc-mod-tools/pc-mod-ruler/pc-modder-ruler-and-gauge.html
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i use ceramics for most of them and clearance is not a problem
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Here are some pics of the area on my Super CD-Rom 2 unit.
(http://s5.postimg.org/ish4ynsbn/DSC00727.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/ish4ynsbn/) (http://s5.postimg.org/997g574tf/DSC00728.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/997g574tf/) (http://s5.postimg.org/6t5mrcmqr/DSC00732.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/6t5mrcmqr/) (http://s5.postimg.org/vaxqf8pb7/DSC00734.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/vaxqf8pb7/)
The way the expansion board is laid out the caps are just behind the other ones on the main PCB. There is one cap in that area on the bottom at C63? but I used a ceramic cap in that spot so clearance was not an issue. I cut the legs short on the caps that go on the expansion board then bent the legs into a "L" shape and soldered them on.
I used Nichicon audio caps on the expansion board except on C604 and C610. I used ceramics in those two spots.
I use this to measure stuff when working on these consoles.
http://mnpctech.com/pc-mod-tools/pc-mod-ruler/pc-modder-ruler-and-gauge.html
Nice! Thanks for the pics. Does not seem so bad now, and if I cannot get caps to fit, I know that ceramics are fine.
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I don't understand why people don't use SMD electrolytic Cap with same footprint as original, make it simple dude !
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if the laser just moves up and down check the tracks to make sure that the grease hasn't dried up. I would replace the laser if the problem continues past changing the caps. I had the exact same problem with A SCDROM2 a few years ago.
Ceramics are a lot better than you're giving them credit. They don't leak, and give you a lot more space on the inside if you're doing any modding.
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Gents,
whats the value of this cap in the pic? you can see the pads in the pic, but its not on the chart. thanks!
-dan
(http://i.imgur.com/wswJrZd.jpg)
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I believe in the units I've worked on that cap location was left empty.
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I believe in the units I've worked on that cap location was left empty.
ok... i couldnt remember if i pulled a cap there or not. i seem to remember the last time i did one of these a couple of years ago, there was a cap there and i noted the value because it wasnt on the chart. i could be misremembering tho.
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It's 100uf
Half won't run without it
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It's 100uf
Half won't run without it
i can confirm this. i put the cap in and my CD player started working. should probably add it to the charts
so, the problem now is it will start most (but not all) games but will usually quit spinning at some point in the game after a run button or some other button is pressed. is this a pot adjustment issue?
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Image is down due to Photobucket being terrible.
From imgur:
(http://i.imgur.com/qRkIEPN.jpg)
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Thanks for reposting, SamIAm. I have a SCDR2 coming and this will be handy for its obligatory recap.
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I need to go back through all my photobucket stuff and relocate things... sigh
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If that missing cap isn't present, should it be added there regardless? Also, is the PCB marked with +/- for that cap's position? I don't have my SCDR2 in yet or I could answer that myself.
Also, does anyone have a list the caps that can safely be replaced with ceramics?
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If its not there i wouldnt add it. The board is marked + and withe for negative. Regarding the electrolytes vs ceramics, it would depend on who you ask. Some say stick with the original plan. Some say use electrolytics for the audio section.
I say use what you have at hand :)
*nevet mind, found a picture on the forum and got it working* getting a new oscope next week. Then i can calibrate for real!
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If its not there i wouldnt add it. The board is marked + and withe for negative.
Thanks! thesteve confirmed to me that if the 100uF cap is not present, it should not be added. He also recommends using ceramics for everything but the audio section.
Could someone please identify which caps are part of the audio circuit?
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If it's not there I wouldn't add it. The board is marked + and withe for negative.
Thanks! thesteve confirmed to me that if the 100uF cap is not present, it should not be added. He also recommends using ceramics for everything but the audio section.
Could someone please identify which caps are part of the audio circuit?
I tried all ceramics on my SNES, but the pitfall was the Composite/S-Video amplifier/output circuit (http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff216/Sephiroth1975/Tech/SNES-VideoSignalCircuits.jpg~original)...
SNES engineers used 2 x 100uF capacitors in parallel to achieve 200uF before the signal leaves for the TV and replacing that area with ceramics led to disastrous results: white screens would lose sync, weird artifacts, just didn't work right...
Long story short I had to switch back to regular electrolytic caps for those video circuits, I just used standard 220uF caps so I wouldn't need 4.
Steve did consider the 4 100uF ceramics I used as defective from the factory because my DMM with capacitance measuring rated them at 60uF, but I don't think that was the only problem...
Kinda didn't trust the large ceramics after that, the small ones under 10uF are usually accurate in reflecting their labeled value. Electrolytic caps are usually higher than what the label says by default and lose said value over time as heats dries the fluid or it leaks out.
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Stupid question time.
How do you get off those circular black doohickies that hold the CD drive to the main board?