Author Topic: REPAIR GUIDE - TurboExpress: Total capacitor replacement chart  (Read 9737 times)

bust3dstr8

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Re: REPAIR GUIDE - TurboExpress: Total capacitor replacement chart
« Reply #135 on: November 17, 2012, 09:08:24 AM »

Text version for the people that prefer this style :)



CC100   100uF   16v
CC101   33uF   6v
CC102   33uF   6v
CC103   100uF   6v
CC104   100uF   6v
CC500   100uF   16v
CC501   4.7uF   35v
CC502   4.7uF   50v
CC503   22uF   35v
CC504   100uF   6v
CC505   100uF   6v
CC700   100uF   6v
CC702   470uF   6.3v
CC703   100uF   6v
CC704   10uF   16v
CC900   100uF   16v
CC901   22uF   6v

Controller PCB Cap:
N/A   47uF   6.3v

Clowns Suck

cosmos99

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Re: REPAIR GUIDE - TurboExpress: Total capacitor replacement chart
« Reply #136 on: January 13, 2013, 09:19:38 PM »
Here is the parts number listing at Digikey , note that those are exactly the same as used in the GT/TE or close when unavailable,none of those is bigger, some just shorter in height wich is not a problem:

Surface mount:

3 x 100µF 16v PCE3879CT-ND
6 x 100µF 6v PCE3852CT-ND
2 x 33µF 6v PCE4560CT-ND
1 x 22µF 35v PCE3952CT-ND
1 x 4,7µF 50v PCE4304CT-ND
1 x 4,7µF 35v 565-2114-1-ND
1 x 10µF 16v 565-2442-1-ND

On holes:

1 x 470µF 6.3v 399-6611-ND
1 x 47µF 6.3v P957-ND  
« Last Edit: January 13, 2013, 09:21:29 PM by cosmos99 »

override

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Re: REPAIR GUIDE - TurboExpress: Total capacitor replacement chart
« Reply #137 on: January 31, 2013, 01:46:09 AM »
Nice to see this forum is still kicking! Whats up nightwolve, been a LONG TIME :)

NightWolve

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Re: REPAIR GUIDE - TurboExpress: Total capacitor replacement chart
« Reply #138 on: January 31, 2013, 06:46:36 AM »
Nice to see this forum is still kicking! Whats up nightwolve, been a LONG TIME :)


Hey there! Uh, did I know you by another alias? override doesn't ring a bell.

Hence why AC non-polarized ceramics are better. Gotcha. Well, I had a bad experience when I switched to all ceramic with my SNES, so now I'm paranoid about going that route. Blew $11 bucks and then I switched back to cheap electrolytic anyway....  :roll:


I thought I'd mention an update while I'm at it with regards to this. I believe I figured out the problem when it comes to replacing standard aluminum caps with high-capacitance ceramic equivalents. First off, I highly recommend that everyone purchase a Digital Multi-Meter that can measure capacitance for cap replacement jobs. Very important I think! I'm extremely happy with the Vicky VC99 I recently purchased that can measure caps as small as 40nF.

OK, so anyhow, here's why it's important to have this feature: every cap in your kit has a different value than what is stated, ceramics are usually a lot lower and aluminums are usually somewhat higher. If it's a 100uF cap, if might actually read 120uF or 95uF, all varies. So before you replace a cap with a new one, you can test each one with a good DMM (if you get one) and pick out the best from the lot that you bought! Not all are created equal, etc.

Now, here's the deal with what happened with my SNES. I bought 2.2uF, 10uF and 100uF in ceramic. Expensive, but hopefully lifelong and would never leak, so cool deal right? Well, after doing a full replacement, it looked like everything was working fine, but when I tried Super Street Fighter II, when Ryu does his opening fireball and the screen goes *full* white and bright, the TV would lose sync and right before at the top, it'd look like say what electricity would, etc. I played around using a resistor in between the Luma output which would fix it, but you'd lose the perfect contrast that the SNES outputs because the thing has a rock-solid Luma to begin with and doesn't need to be messed with... Not an acceptable solution.

Anyway, I finally got sick of this, and I declared all of these high-value ceramic caps a big mistake, and I had paranoia in ever using them again. So I put new aluminum caps back in place and everything worked fine again! However, after my new VC99 DMM arrived, I tested all of the ceramic caps that Digikey had sold me (I blew $11 bucks after all!). Here were the results: the single 2.2uF cap came out to 3uF, the 10uF caps were 9.3uF - 9.5uF, BUT, the 100uF caps were like 64uF!!!! They were off by f*cking 40% from the stated value, WAY unacceptable and those were the caps that caused the problem! The Luma/Y amplifier circuit on 1st generation SNES systems has a 200uF cap before going to the Multi-AV out to kill off the remaining 1.35 Voltage. 2 100uF caps are connected in parallel for this. Anyhow, as a result, I put the small 2.2uF and 10uF ceramic caps back on the system and I left the 100uF caps in aluminum...

So, ProTip: Stay away from high-value ceramics (above 10uF) or get a DMM that can measure them for you so you don't get f*cked by one that's way way too low from the stated value!!!

The other thing: Digikey sent me a notice that TDK discontinued manufacture of most of the caps that I had bought from them for this SNES job... (I was like, thanks a lot, a$$holes!) So yeah, my experience may not be reflected by anyone else and any general rules may not apply. Nonetheless, I don't trust a new cap now unless I can pre-measure it before soldering it on and I wanna be able to pick out the best ones first out of the package... The Vicky VC99 allows for this, get it! Then throw another dollar to this Chinese seller for the alligator clips, so you can clip on the leads to a cap for easy testing, and you're all set (it doesn't come with them).

* Discontinued ceramic cap in question (100uF 6.3V):

http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=17&y=14&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=445-4827-ND

TDK's stated reasons: http://media.digikey.com/pdf/PCNs/TDK/Dipped_Y5V_Disc.pdf

I bought 4 of those f*ckers, and they were ~60-70uF, VERY far off! The aluminums are usually higher than the stated value is what I am finding with my cap measuring DMM.
« Last Edit: January 31, 2013, 07:57:56 AM by NightWolve »

thesteve

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Re: REPAIR GUIDE - TurboExpress: Total capacitor replacement chart
« Reply #139 on: February 03, 2013, 08:16:37 AM »
the caps are typically allowed 20% unless stated otherwise
your caps were off over 50% and should be considered defective.
i have only used 22uf and lower in ceramic and 100uf tant
the ceramics are more forgiving than tant, and preferred.
often aluminum will be rated @ -20%+80%

RTQ

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Re: REPAIR GUIDE - TurboExpress: Total capacitor replacement chart
« Reply #140 on: May 25, 2013, 03:55:50 PM »
Steve,

I ordered an entire set of aluminum capacitors to fix my TE before finding this site.  I want to reorder everything ceramic now.  Are you saying to just use ceramic ones up to 22uf and then use aluminum over 22uf?  Or can I use ceramic to replace them all?

Should I get the exact Volts with ceramic?  If not, how many volts higher is within allowable range?  Thank you very much!

First Post!

BlueBMW

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Re: REPAIR GUIDE - TurboExpress: Total capacitor replacement chart
« Reply #141 on: May 25, 2013, 04:48:40 PM »
You can go with higher voltage as long as size doesnt cause an issue.
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NightWolve

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Re: REPAIR GUIDE - TurboExpress: Total capacitor replacement chart
« Reply #142 on: May 25, 2013, 08:56:30 PM »
RTQ, this is a key point once made by steve: if you can replace all capacitors with tantalums or ceramic on a Turbo Express, you can eliminate the humming sound in the speakers and headphones (it's more pronounced I recall when using headphones).

You can get all values in ceramic at Digikey and the other place that's linked here (mouser, I think), but I am nervous that the values above 10 uF or more will be of lower capacitance than the stated value. I'd bet that's not the case with tantalums, though. Like, if they have a 120 uF ceramic capacitor, I would buy that one and use it for the 100 uF replacements - that'd be my advice... Would be good if you have a DMM that can measure capacitance so you know what's going on exactly... but yeah, point is, the actual capacitance value of a ceramic capacitor is usually lower than what it says it is... While some aluminum caps can be actually higher (significantly sometimes) than the stated value...

As for voltage, the higher the better as Blue says, but that means the capacitor will be bigger, thus take up more space, plus it'll be more expensive! They'll last longer too, being better able to handle "ripples" as it's referred to. Anyway, go 35V+ if you can in ceramic and see what the price is, etc. Ceramics are much smaller compared to aluminums, so I doubt you'll have spacing issues even with the 100 uF ones that you need for a TE.
« Last Edit: May 25, 2013, 09:04:27 PM by NightWolve »

Slypty

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Re: REPAIR GUIDE - TurboExpress: Total capacitor replacement chart
« Reply #143 on: February 05, 2014, 02:23:18 AM »
Some great info in this repair forum, I'm about to undertake repairing a PC Engine GT, it has no Sound but the video is fine and works well other than that.  I think it's worth the overhaul to put in new caps before something bad happens.

  Anyways, I was wondering if anyone can confirm that the same caps are used in the PCE GT?  I suppose I could just open it up and check, just a bit lazy.  Thanks

thesteve

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Re: REPAIR GUIDE - TurboExpress: Total capacitor replacement chart
« Reply #144 on: March 05, 2014, 05:42:54 PM »
the gt and te use the same main board and controller
all parts match except the te has a 0ohm resistor to bypass region check

ltpitt

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Re: REPAIR GUIDE - TurboExpress: Total capacitor replacement chart
« Reply #145 on: March 16, 2014, 12:15:16 AM »
I have been able to (finally) fix my sound thanks to all this precious info.

My soldering skills completely suck so I want to spend a few words to give courage to other friends out there :)

I had to train because I didn't want to wreck my precious PC Engine so I decided to throw a bit of money into that.

This silly thing helped me a lot:

https://www.futurashop.it/index.php?route=product/product&path=4025_3193_303&product_id=3664

If you're able to deal with this repairing the Pc Engine will be a piece (almost) of cake.

If you are lazy and / or afraid to make mistakes when buying parts a kind french guy sells the whole kit:

http://www.otakus-store.net/en/nec-pc-engine/230-smd-full-cap-kit-for-pc-engine-gt-turbo-express.html

Be sure to grab a third hand and a nice magifier and PATIENCE.

Lots of it.

You can kill your little fellow if you don't abuse of your patience.

Thanks to all the electronics heroes that made my work possible: you are awesome.

mickcris

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Re: REPAIR GUIDE - TurboExpress: Total capacitor replacement chart
« Reply #146 on: February 23, 2015, 11:40:49 PM »
Couple of dumb questions:

When removing the white epoxy from the inductor, i exposed part of the windings.  Just wondering if I need to cover back up with something?  Not sure what the purpose of it was originally.

Also, can you replace 2 through hole caps with ceramic/tantalum?  I mostly saw in this thread talking mainly about the surface mounts being replaced with them.  Don't think these would be any different though, but not 100% sure.  The through hole cap on my controller board seems to be the one that has leaked the worst.

thanks.

Keith Courage

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Re: REPAIR GUIDE - TurboExpress: Total capacitor replacement chart
« Reply #147 on: February 24, 2015, 07:17:52 AM »
Make sure the wiring for the inductor is still connected to its traces on the board. Sometimes when uncovering it one end can snap off. I've used a two part epoxy to cover it back up in the past when I've accidentally uncovered it. Not sure if it needs it but it can't hurt anything to cover again. I'm sure hot glue would work nicely as well.

Use any kind of caps you want.
« Last Edit: February 24, 2015, 08:27:30 AM by Keith Courage »

Necromancer

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Re: REPAIR GUIDE - TurboExpress: Total capacitor replacement chart
« Reply #148 on: February 24, 2015, 08:00:33 AM »
I'm sure hot glue would work nicely as well.

Thanks for the tip, Drakon.  :mrgreen:
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NightWolve

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Re: REPAIR GUIDE - TurboExpress: Total capacitor replacement chart
« Reply #149 on: February 24, 2015, 08:01:09 AM »
I love hot glue, for the record.  :mrgreen: So damn useful!