Retr0bright... no more yellowing systems...

[Sparky]

guys what do ya think about this 

A bunch of people in a thread over at this vintage-computer forum have been working on a solution for our yellowing retro systems. Sounds like they finally cracked it with the help of a professional chemist who looked into the problem more theoretically.

some promising results!!!

The thread:
http://www.vintage-computer.com/vcforum/showthread.php?p=89902#post89902

The official wiki that has some photos of the "retr0bright" process:
http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/

i have a snes that has some yellowing controller ports on it that needs the retro0bright bath!!!, hmmm…even my skin could use a hit

[termis]

Cool.  Some good info there. 

Those results look better than any of the "dip-in-bleach" pics I've seen to date.

[Necromancer]

Very interesting.  I wonder if this method goes any 'deeper' than simple bleaching, meaning that it'll take a lot longer for the yellowing to reoccur.

[jperryss]

Cool.  Some good info there. 

Those results look better than any of the "dip-in-bleach" pics I've seen to date.

Agreed.

I know I mentioned this in another thread but I did the whole extended-bleaching bit with my white Duo-R pad and, although it did remove some of the yellowing, it looks like it pretty much just ate away at the top layer of plastic. I think you could get better (and more even) results with some really fine sandpaper and some time.

[Mobius]

This is awesome.  I know a certain SNES that's going to get a bath pretty soon...

[Duo_R]

that is exactly what I did, I did a combo of bleach and used a 320 grit automotive sandblock (wet/dry). I got some really good results, will have to go over it again since there are some spots that didn't get hit as good with the sandblock.

Cool.  Some good info there. 

Those results look better than any of the "dip-in-bleach" pics I've seen to date.

Agreed.

I know I mentioned this in another thread but I did the whole extended-bleaching bit with my white Duo-R pad and, although it did remove some of the yellowing, it looks like it pretty much just ate away at the top layer of plastic. I think you could get better (and more even) results with some really fine sandpaper and some time.

[Arkhan]

*looks at black Turbo, and genesis.....*

*shrug*

:-D


The Commodore 64 fanatics are loving that stuff though.  no more pee-yellow keyboards.

Now if someone could solve the uselessness of the C64 itself! 

[BlackandBlue]

Hey, this was a great find.  I recently bought a very yellow CDROM² and a variation of the ingredients on the wiki worked great for me (I couldn't find their crazy stuff, so I used corn starch).  It was just a pain in the ass pulling the 4 UV lights from my pc, since I couldnt find a UV bulb at the store.  If anyone is interested, I'll post some pics of the before/after and the ingredients/process I used.

[Sparky]

Hey, this was a great find.  I recently bought a very yellow CDROM² and a variation of the ingredients on the wiki worked great for me (I couldn't find their crazy stuff, so I used corn starch).  It was just a pain in the ass pulling the 4 UV lights from my pc, since I couldnt find a UV bulb at the store.  If anyone is interested, I'll post some pics of the before/after and the ingredients/process I used.

ya, for sure... i have not even got around to trying this myself

[Arkhan]

screw it all.

I like my SNES looking all tinted and gimpy

[BlackandBlue]

The process I did was pretty much like what they described.  I ended up getting Hydrogen Peroxide from a Sally's Beauty (40 VOL). 

-200ml Hydrogen Peroxide
-1 & 1/2 Tablespoons of Corn Starch
-1/4 teaspoon of Oxy clean

Mixed the Hydrogen Peroxide and corn starch in a plastic container, then popped it in the microwave for 30 seconds, stirred, 30 more seconds, stirred, then about 15 more seconds.  At this point the mixture became a gel.  I let it sit for a few minutes to cool, then added the Oxy clean.

I used a paint brush to apply the gel to the yellowed parts.  I put it all on a double thick piece of card board and suspended 4 UV 12" lights from my computer over the area.  I made a 'fixture' out of cardboard and aluminum foil to redirect the light towards the parts.  I let it all sit in my basement for around 24 hours under the UV lights.  It never really foamed up like the retr0 bright wiki says it should (probably because of the different ingredients). 

Here are some before and after pics:

Originally what the unit looked like (got this pic from Ebay listing):


Here's the parts laid out:


IFU before:


Here you can see the original color vs the stained:


After!:


Here you can see on the back of the IFU where the gel dripped down (if you look real hard):


Overall, I'm very happy with the outcome and now have a pure white CD Unit and IFU.  Not to mention I saved this one from the dumpster, since I bought it knowing full well that it was broken.  Ended up being a dead laser unit.

[BlackandBlue]

Oh, BTW, since the Hydrogen Peroxide is around 12% (compared to the 3% you get in the brown bottle from a Walgreen's or something), don't get it on your skin.  It starts burning after a minute and leaves a nasty white mark where it came in contact with you.  I didn't notice some of it got on my arm and to wash it off, you need to use warm water and Baking Soda (to neutralize it).

[Tatsujin]

you know guys. i did this before according the isntructions from SuperPCEngineGrafx.com

[Tatsujin]

Now if someone could solve the uselessness of the C64 itself! 

teh SID in it alone gives it infinite raison d'être

best tune generator in history of video games

[Arkhan]

Now if someone could solve the uselessness of the C64 itself! 

teh SID in it alone gives it infinite raison d'être

best tune generator in history of video games

yes, but sadly its single volume register makes sound effects in some action games a complete mess on top of the audio.

all you hear is fldjadfguadf89gadfgkadjfgadfgj with some music behind it, rofl.