Author Topic: REPAIR GUIDE - Laseractive NEC PAC-N1 / N10: Total capacitor replacement chart  (Read 7086 times)

esteban

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REPAIR GUIDE - Laseractive NEC PAC-N1 / N10: Total capacitor replacement chart
« Reply #60 on: September 20, 2015, 04:25:10 AM »
TRANSBOT!

Wow, I forgot how much better the Japanese coverart was for Le TransBot.

Amazing.

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Bloufo

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Yep. You are not wrong.



Supercom

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Can anyone who owns a Laseractive with the Sega Pac be so kind to tell me if its normal for the IC in the pic below to get scorching hot after just a few minutes of gameplay?
My unit is a bit under the weather ATM (even after replacing capacitor & parts all across the boards), and I've had bad chips gone bad before and that's usually one of the symptoms but in this case I don't know. Thanks in advance for any help!

« Last Edit: October 03, 2015, 08:13:43 AM by Supercom »

choijimmy

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Can anyone who owns a Laseractive with the Sega Pac be so kind to tell me if its normal for the IC in the pic below to get scorching hot after just a few minutes of gameplay?
My unit is a bit under the weather ATM (even after replacing capacitor & parts all across the boards), and I've had bad chips gone bad before and that's usually one of the symptoms but in this case I don't know. Thanks in advance for any help!




Play pc engine cd game for 5 mins and the chip is around 50c  based on my feeling

BlueBMW

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That could be why they left an opening in that plastic cover.  They were anticipating that chip getting hotter than others and didn't want to melt the plastic.
[Sun 23:29] <Tatsujin> we have hard off, book off, house off, sports off, baby off, clothes off, jerk off, piss off etc

Supercom

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Play pc engine cd game for 5 mins and the chip is around 50c  based on my feeling


That could be why they left an opening in that plastic cover.  They were anticipating that chip getting hotter than others and didn't want to melt the plastic.

Thanks for the replies! It does seems normal for this chip to get hot, and the plastic cover opening makes total sense.

I have three Laseractive units two of them are American (they were in storage until today) and one of them is Japanese, this last one is the one giving me problems.

Basically what happens is, it plays all Laserdisc games and movies not problem every time all of the time. But when playing Mega Cd games after a few minutes during gameplay, the discs will stop/pause spinning, and then start to play again at random. Almost feels like this happens when the system temperature raises.

I have ruled out the Sega Pacs because they all have been recapped and they all work fine in my other American systems. I've also replaced capacitors all over the Japanese Laseractive boards making very little difference.

The Japanese Laseractive model seems to be the newest revision of them all (judging by the 1996 date) and yet, it seems to be the less reliable. In my other two units, the boards show some type of last minute modifications (such as the addition of smaller IC board fixes) but on this one there aren't any. Also this is the only unit (out of the three) that the power supply has the additional IC protector like the one seen in the pic below (Thanks to BlueBMW for the pic)

I've also tested for bad/shorted/open ic's but they all check ok. When I first got it, the power supply had some leaky caps and it also looked like someone had messed with some of the potentiometers (I manage to tweak them until the unit was able to read all discs again), also replaced the laser with a known working one thinking that could be the obvious culprit, but still works and behaves exactly as the old one did. And finally, I've followed all of BlueBMW's recommendations I've found on the net, with little success.

Is there some sort of trick for these Japanese models that I'm not aware of?
Your help is greatly appreciated, thanks again!





« Last Edit: October 06, 2015, 09:24:55 AM by Supercom »

choijimmy

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In the power supply board,  there is a 2.2k resistor in position R301 , can you measure it's value by using multimeter?  I have two laseractive produce unstable -5v due to this resistor.

Also, I assume you replaced all the caps on the PCB board in laser active which directly connect to the pac, right?

Supercom

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In the power supply board,  there is a 2.2k resistor in position R301 , can you measure it's value by using multimeter?  I have two laseractive produce unstable -5v due to this resistor.
Hmmm, I think you may be onto something  :-k . After the PSU capacitors leaked there was definitely a big mess afterwards. I did a lot of cleaning but maybe I missed something (even though I added new solder to most of the contacts ) . I'll double check everything including this resistor and will get back on this, thanks!
Also, I assume you replaced all the caps on the PCB board in laser active which directly connect to the pac, right?
Yes all of them. There was no difference between the before and the after, sadly  ](*,)
« Last Edit: October 06, 2015, 12:41:41 PM by Supercom »

thesteve

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could be a weak laser, oddly the sega cd games require better laser control then the LD stuff

wmsteele

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Discovered I had a dead RAM backup battery, original ML2016 now replaced with a shiny new ML2032 rechargeable battery. Slightly thicker than the original but a perfect fit.


choijimmy

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Discovered I had a dead RAM backup battery, original ML2016 now replaced with a shiny new ML2032 rechargeable battery. Slightly thicker than the original but a perfect fit.




Me too. somehow I am UNable to find rechargable ML2016 with fitted legs.
I am able to find ML2032 with correct legs which works perfect for few years

wmsteele

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Me too. somehow I am UNable to find rechargable ML2016 with fitted legs.
I am able to find ML2032 with correct legs which works perfect for few years

Is the ML2032  not a direct replacement? I had thought so... as the ML2032 is rechargeable I though this would last more than a couple of years!?!
« Last Edit: October 11, 2015, 04:13:56 AM by wmsteele »

choijimmy

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Me too. somehow I am UNable to find rechargable ML2016 with fitted legs.
I am able to find ML2032 with correct legs which works perfect for few years

Is the ML2032  not a direct replacement? I had thought so... as the ML2032 is rechargeable I though this would last more than a couple of years!?!

ML2032 is correct replacement (3v rechargable ) but just thicker and thus more storage than ML2016

Supercom

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Ok so I just find out my Japanese Laseractive power supply for some reason has a 1A 250V Fuse. It isn't supposed to be a 2.5A 125V fuse instead?. Is this some kind of last minute factory modification? or did the previous owner installed the wrong fuse rating?

Also,the Japanese Laseractive has a DWR1155 power supply, while my American unit has a DWR1156 one. I can see there a few differences for example, the big cap near the front (470uf 180v  VS. a 390uf 200V cap), some of the resistor values around the same area, and the additional IC protector at the bottom (Japanese unit only).

if it's indeed the wrong fuse, how the heck did it manage to live this long without blowing up? :-k

American:




Japanese:


« Last Edit: November 09, 2015, 01:03:47 PM by Supercom »

choijimmy

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confirmed my Japanese cld-a100 has 125v 2.5A fuse. Yes, some power supply board somehow has extra icp-n50 at the bottom side of the pcb